Elan Sprint out of hibernation!

[RichardS]

Further to my post earlier in the week [about getting my 1973 Sprint FHC back on the road I have got my hands dirty. This afternoon I jacked her up and got the wheels rotating for the first time in 17 years.

I have attached some pics - spot the cobwebs!

The hammerite hasn't done a bad job and visually things don't look too bad but I plan to fit braided brake hoses and either rebuild or replace the calipers.

The wheels were quite stiff to turn but are now moving although not very freely. No scrunching noises and I can't feel any play in the wheels when rocking them. Does this suggest the bearings are likley to be ok or are they best replaced as part of the recommissioning?

Presumably the brake discs could be skimmed to clean them up - they have only done about 3000 miles. Would it be sensible to rebush the wishbones or perhaps replace them with the Spyder tubular ones?

The rotoflexes have surface cracking and I think I would feel happier replacing them. Any thoughts on staying with the original set up or going for the Spyder set up [The Spyder spaceframe chassis that I fitted in 1984 and this looks fine].

Should the diff come out while I am at it? - this has never been checked internally.

As I am in no rush I am going to start with the above and leave the engine and clutch for now. As can be seen the body is crying out for a respray but this will be the icing on the cake. I also have the correct Big Valve cam cover to fit.

Any thoughts, comments, constructive criticism gratefully received!

Richard

[Elanintheforest]

Hi Richard
Classicar Automotive are your best bet to get the brakes all sorted out. They will rebuild your calipers and servo to perfection (all replated so they look new), supply you with new master and slave cylinders, braided hoses and discs. And they are in Cheshire, and have dealt with Elans since I started playing with them in '75. The discs are only ?15 a corner...not worth refurbishing the originals. They are in Chelford on 01625 860910.

I would certainly replace the rotoflexes, but the ones produced in the last few years are very poor...and expensive...with bolts, knocking on ?300 a set. The wisdom of the folks on this forum seems to be the TTR or Sue Miller CV driveshafts...not much more that a set of rotoflex couplings, easer to fit, better drive and maintenance free.

The only reason to whip out the diff would be to change the oil seals if it's leaking. If you fit the driveshafts, it would be just as easy to see if there are any leaks when the car is up and running and fix if there are.
Mark

[RichardS]

Mark

Thanks for your comments - I also remember Classicar automotive from the early 1980s - they are only 45 minutes or so from here so a visit is in the offing!

Richard

[elansprint71]

Richard,
If you are free on Bank Holiday Monday 7th May, why not pop over to the Gawsworth Hall Classic Car show; I think we (Cheshire Lotus Owners Group) will have ten to fifteen Elans there. After 17 years, you may have ten to fifteen questions! It's a great day out. We are NOT "car club types" however. http://members.lycos.co.uk/clog/

wrt those Rotoflexes, not only would I replace them, I'd fit Mick Miller CV drive-shafts too. 17 years ago Rotoflexes were made from much stronger stuff than those of today, no dodgy chemicals allowed these days.

If you can't make the show, we'll catch up some other time.

Cheers,
Pete.

'72 Sprint, Spyder chassis, twin wishbone rear, MM shafts, big brakes..........

[peterako]

Hi Richard!

How are you?

No smart comments from me this time

I'd recommend a close inspection of the front bearings, regrease
if ok otherwise replace. Cheap an easy job.

If the rear wheel bearings are dry then replace them.

I recently did mine an the differnce was huge. It was like I was
driving with the handbrake on before!

Regaring the drive shafts. I can highly recommend Sue/Mick
Miller's CV conversion. I put them on mine about 3000 miles
ago and haven't looked back.

You may find that the UJ's need changing after that....play
seems to be hidden by the donuts.

Car looks lovely!

Best of luck,
Peter 73 +2S 130/5

[RichardS]

Thanks for the comments and advice.

I am going to make a start next weekend with the front suspension and steering rack. Hopefully the Coppereze I applied all those years ago will make things easier to dismantle.

Richard

[steveww]

I would give serious consideration to rewiring the car. The insulation on the old harness may be a little brittle by now and all those bullet connectors could be a bit corroded. All this will give electrical gremlins at best or a fire at worst A complete new harness is about ?500 from the usual suspects and quite easy to fit. The only painful part is pulling out the dash.

Good to see another Elan saved. Looking forward to seeing you at some classic Lotus events next year

[RichardS]

I have been slowly working away since starting my Sprint's resurrection back in May! Having not lifted a spanner or torque wrench since 1990 my dormant mechanical faculties have gradually come back to life. One of the most useful tools has been the lead head hammer that I used to use for the wheel spinners - just the job for "gently easing" stubborn parts into place.

I've posted a couple of pics of the renovated front and rear suspension which are an improvement on the rusty parts removed. I have gone for the Spyder RSCand adjustable A frames with Sue Miller driveshafts. At the front I have fitted the +2 discs and dustshields. Next job is new brake pipes, calipers and master cylinders - wonder if Santa will lower a sack of new parts down my chimney!

Thanks for all the advice since I joined Lotuselan.net and a Happy Christnas to everyone out there

Richard

[Barney]

Richard,
2007 was the year I decided to get my Lotus back on the road. In addition to your list you might care to look at the fuel system and start researching your options. I found that the petrol had attacked the webers from within leaving a real gloopy mess. This & the brakes as you've already discerned are prime candidates for serious work. I admit I farmed out this work as I couldn't devote enough time to the project.

I also had to deal with the results of a blocked culvert that cause flooding to my garage. Carpets & bottom end electrics suffered as a reult.

Its surprising in the intervening time how attitudes changed, resulting in a more practical approach to running Elans. i.e. the advice re Donut substitution would not have been made so freely. Spyder were just developing their system then and it was considered by many as being sacrilege - witchcraft even.

I always enjoyed winding the donuts up and looked forward to spring for my next chance, but having read what has been written above about current standards of materials, I am now slightly dubious about enjoying myself in such a manner with the new donuts I've fitted.

It all goes to prove what a great resource this website & forum is. I only wish that I had found it 6 months earlier!!

Good Luck the rebuild,
Barney

[elansprint71]

Richard,
That's looking pretty good! Next CLOGmeet, I think, is Sunday 6th January at the Swettenham Arms; if it's not salty, I guess that several Elans will be on parade.


Best wishes to all,
Pete.

[RichardS]

Looking forward to turning up at a CLOG meeting driving my Elan, hopefully in 2008!

Happy Xmas!

Richard

[RichardS]

Thought an update - 12 months on - may be of interest.

Can't believe another year has slipped by. On a first look back at my last update I thought that I hadn't achieved much despite probably spending 3 or 4 hours a week tinkering!

The suspension and brakes look the same although I have just this morning finished reinstalling the steering column and glad to say the rack seems to be moving nicely with no unwanted noises.

A lot of time was spent on the wiring - on reflection it would probably have saved time and money if I had just replaced the front loom as I have replaced at least 75% of the original wiring in the engine bay. The S4 wiring diagram in the Technical section of the forum was very useful - I enlarged it onto 4 or 5 sheets of A4 and laminated the copies which were easy to read and use. I fitted a fuse box in place of the regulator to replace the old 2 fuse system [photo attached]. This provides seperate fusing for the main circuits. I have added relays for the window motors. Had problems with replacing the original battery - 3 new batteries from my local motor shop leaked! I therefore fitted the Odyssey PC680 as suggested in previous posts and this fits neatly on the battery tray.

I am hoping my new earthing circuit will sort out dim indicators, slow wipers etc once and for all! I took inspiration from my ham radio days when earthing for antennae was very important. As others have suggested I have made a "ring circuit". I bought several junction boxes http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_inf ... ts_id=1576 and ran a main earth cable to each and then attached individual earths to each component. Brian Buckland suggest earthing the battery via a cable to the passenger side rear upright [where the bracing strap between the 2 uprights bolts] which I did. I made up earth leads from battery cable and ran to junction boxes as follow:

1, from drivers side rear upright to junction box in boot - the rear lights and petrol sender earth to this - does away with the very unsatisfactory original earth point to the chassis in the boot well.

2. from chassis bolt that mounts lower dash bracket to earth instruments, wiper motor and door motors.

3. from each front suspension body securing bolt - for earthing the lights, horn etc.

The advantage is that one doesn't have to undo the large earth cables every time that you disconnect something. Each earth from the components has its own 8mm ring terminal which is simply attached to the junction box post. I've attached a photo of the front passenger side engine bay junction box.

I have fitted a gear reduction starter motor so don't need the solenoid. I have left this in place and run a live feed to another junction box by the fuse box. Each of the live circuits is then fed from the junction box to the fuse box.

I have also replaced most of the bullet connectors behind the dash with simple plug connectors, They are much easier to connect and disconnect - and also less likely to become detached. There is a photo of the dash below which shows several of the connectors. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_inf ... ts_id=1765


So not a bad twelve months! All I need to do now is to connect up the brakes, find a new Weber backplate and then refit the carbs, new radiator and thats it. Oh - and just the respray and retrim. You will see from then photo of the front of the car that the paintwork hasn't improved and the interior is a little bare.


Season greetings to everyone and thanks for all the tips and advice over the year.

Richard

PS just read the Evo article mentioned elsewhere and like the sentiments "The Elan is properly quick, both in a straight line and carving across the scenery". This has spurred me on to get finished and get behind the wheel and tackle some bendy country roads!

[RichardS]

Heard the sound of my Twin Cam burbling away for the first time since 1989 this morning - fantastic moment!!

A friend who is far more knowledgeable than me on engine matters met me down at the car first thing this morning. Within an hour or so we had the old radiator temporarily hitched up and fiilled with water. A few squeezes on the recently fitted primer pump and the carbs were filled. Oil pressure up to 40lb on turn over, new plugs in. Within a minute the engine fired up and was running surprisingly well after such a long break. Sounds even better than I remember - what a lovely growl the Webers make! Unfortunately no video to record the occasion - I shall have to borrow next weekend and post a You Tube clip.

Also got the brake and clutch circuits filled and bled.

My friend was quite keen to help again next Sunday morning - plan is to get the wheels on and see if the clutch will free up. The new suspension all needs tightening up

The MOT and first drive are getting ever closer........

Richard

[mark030358]

Richard...
Well done maybe see you in a few weeks ....

Big smile ehhh... ))))

cheers
Mark

[RichardS]

Big smile ehhh... ))))

cheers
Mark

Oh yes - still smiling this morning!!

Richard