Engine mounts, VIN plates etc (long)

[davidcroft]

I've been saving up these questions for a while, so please excuse the
multiple subjects...

Question 1 - could worn-out engine mounts make my car get noisier?

Just dropped my Plus 2 off at the mechanics (to get brakes and some
other stuff sorted) and he said (as soon as he started the car) that
the engine mountings needed replacement. I'm not in the least
surprised, as another guy said the mounts were on their way out 10,000
miles ago.

The thing is...I'm sure the car has got noisier recently, especially
under full throttle acceleration.

The fact that the gear lever gater (gator?) is split probably isn't
helping the noise levels - I intend to (try to) change this myself...so
(Question 2) - can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do?

Question 3 - how easy is it to change the choke cable assembly?

...and Question 4 (I'm really scared to ask this one) - My car hasn't
got a proper VIN plate. It's got a chassis no. stamped onto a plate
(about 2" by 1") pop-riveted on the bulkhead next to the left hand
bonnet catch . This is '50***' (can't remember exactly).

I now understand that there should be an alloy plate on the inner wheel
arch - the holes are still there.

Looking back, I can't believe I didn't check this out. I bought the car
from a major and reputable dealer in SE England, complete with a
history file going back to the mid 80's. I saw the little plate and
thought 'well maybe that's how they all are', and didn't even consider
the possibility that the car could be iffy. The car has a galvanised
chassis, so it wouldn't have a number matching the plate anyway, would
it?

So, is it possible to verify the identity of the car. If it is all ok,
can I get a new VIN plate? If it isn't 'kosher', is it best to just
forget about the whole issue, and just hope that I find someone as
naive and trusting as me when (if) I come to sell it?

Please tell me it'll be alright...

Cheers

David
('71 Plus 2S)

[simonknee]

1.
Yes, but the noise itself could be from the exhaust; the extra movement of
the engine may have caused a leak at one of the joins or in a real bad case
the extra stress could cause a crack in the pipes.
Or, once my +2 made a noise that sounded like something real bad had
happened. It didn't seem to affect performance however, in fact the car seem
a bit better! On investigation the next day I found the airbox had come off!
The sound of Webbers with no silencers is quite spectacular. So do check the
intake side of things when checking out increased noise.
2.
-
3.
Do you really need choke. I have always found Webbers ready to start with a
few pumps of the throttle and far to easy to flood!

4.
Ah ha, my stolen plus2!!!

Only kidding mine was '69. My tuppence on VIN plates on Loti is that these
are a piece of p*ss to change or fake anyway. Mine are screwed on.
Most cars don't have original chassis and many have different engines so go
figure.
Maybe your 'bit of metal' was off the original chassis??
A V5 with a chassis number on it and that checks out back into the mid 80's
(MOT's etc) seems about all you can hope for.
It is a good idea to run an check for outstanding loans etc when you
purchase but to be honest I never have!!

There is a bloke that will make up a new VIN plate if you prove it's all OK.
Can't remember his name and address but I am sure someone will.

cheers

Simon
'67 S3 FHC



-----Original Message-----
From: davidguycroft [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: 07 December 2001 16:52
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Engine mounts, VIN plates etc (long)


I've been saving up these questions for a while, so please excuse the
multiple subjects...

Question 1 - could worn-out engine mounts make my car get noisier?

Just dropped my Plus 2 off at the mechanics (to get brakes and some
other stuff sorted) and he said (as soon as he started the car) that
the engine mountings needed replacement. I'm not in the least
surprised, as another guy said the mounts were on their way out 10,000
miles ago.

The thing is...I'm sure the car has got noisier recently, especially
under full throttle acceleration.

The fact that the gear lever gater (gator?) is split probably isn't
helping the noise levels - I intend to (try to) change this myself...so
(Question 2) - can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do?

Question 3 - how easy is it to change the choke cable assembly?

...and Question 4 (I'm really scared to ask this one) - My car hasn't
got a proper VIN plate. It's got a chassis no. stamped onto a plate
(about 2" by 1") pop-riveted on the bulkhead next to the left hand
bonnet catch . This is '50***' (can't remember exactly).

I now understand that there should be an alloy plate on the inner wheel
arch - the holes are still there.

Looking back, I can't believe I didn't check this out. I bought the car
from a major and reputable dealer in SE England, complete with a
history file going back to the mid 80's. I saw the little plate and
thought 'well maybe that's how they all are', and didn't even consider
the possibility that the car could be iffy. The car has a galvanised
chassis, so it wouldn't have a number matching the plate anyway, would
it?

So, is it possible to verify the identity of the car. If it is all ok,
can I get a new VIN plate? If it isn't 'kosher', is it best to just
forget about the whole issue, and just hope that I find someone as
naive and trusting as me when (if) I come to sell it?

Please tell me it'll be alright...

Cheers

David
('71 Plus 2S)

[s2lola]

David,

Before the answers, a few questions first:

1. Do you enjoy owning your Elan?
2. Do you enjoy driving your Elan (different than above)?
3. Do you feel that your Elan represents an important part of motoring (and
specifically sports car) history and evolution of same?

If you can answer yes to the above, then "it'll be alright". Your car is
no less an Elan than many others on this list. A waylaid chassis plate does
NOT eradicate the existence of the car. It has always been considerably
more expensive to fake an Elan than restore an Elan - the likelihood that
you car is anything other than has been represented to you is minimal.

Drive, enjoy, and have fun. Relax, Elan owner....

cheers,
Bill Tebbutt



-----Original Message-----
From: davidguycroft [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 11:52 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Engine mounts, VIN plates etc (long)


I've been saving up these questions for a while, so please excuse the
multiple subjects...

Question 1 - could worn-out engine mounts make my car get noisier?

Just dropped my Plus 2 off at the mechanics (to get brakes and some
other stuff sorted) and he said (as soon as he started the car) that
the engine mountings needed replacement. I'm not in the least
surprised, as another guy said the mounts were on their way out 10,000
miles ago.

The thing is...I'm sure the car has got noisier recently, especially
under full throttle acceleration.

The fact that the gear lever gater (gator?) is split probably isn't
helping the noise levels - I intend to (try to) change this myself...so
(Question 2) - can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do?

Question 3 - how easy is it to change the choke cable assembly?

...and Question 4 (I'm really scared to ask this one) - My car hasn't
got a proper VIN plate. It's got a chassis no. stamped onto a plate
(about 2" by 1") pop-riveted on the bulkhead next to the left hand
bonnet catch . This is '50***' (can't remember exactly).

I now understand that there should be an alloy plate on the inner wheel
arch - the holes are still there.

Looking back, I can't believe I didn't check this out. I bought the car
from a major and reputable dealer in SE England, complete with a
history file going back to the mid 80's. I saw the little plate and
thought 'well maybe that's how they all are', and didn't even consider
the possibility that the car could be iffy. The car has a galvanised
chassis, so it wouldn't have a number matching the plate anyway, would
it?

So, is it possible to verify the identity of the car. If it is all ok,
can I get a new VIN plate? If it isn't 'kosher', is it best to just
forget about the whole issue, and just hope that I find someone as
naive and trusting as me when (if) I come to sell it?

Please tell me it'll be alright...

Cheers

David
('71 Plus 2S)












reserved.







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[paul_adamson]

I had a "problem" with the chassis plate on my car during it's restoration.
Thankfully, I was able to get another one from Paul Matty.
I think it cost ?35 and I had to supply lots of proof.
ie. Vehicle Registration Book, MOT (Road-worthiness certificate etc.etc)

Regarding the gear lever gater (gator?), I can confirm that even the slightest hole or split will make a huge difference to the interior noise levels.
I could be wrong, but I think there are two gaitors around the gear lever on a plus2. They (or it) are not difficult to replace.

[lotocone]

Dave wrote:


Although I haven't done it, I don't think changing it would be difficult. I believe you have to remove the center tunnel trim. That's the difficult part. To do so, I'm pretty sure you have to at least lift the rear seats, which means taking a whole bunch of stuff apart (including removing the rear side panels?). To actually remove the rear seat (that shouldn't be necessary for this), you have to remove a front seat.

I love the +2 interior trim , but it can be a real pain when it's in the way.
--
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California



__________________________________________________________________

[Foxie]

Ken,

The way I remove the +2 tunnel trim, the rear seat "assembly" just needs to be lifted a bit to allow the trim to slide back a few inches to clear the switches on the dash panel at the front end, then lift the tunnel trim up and out. The the screws securing the rear parcel shelf and the rear seat assembly will need to be removed.
To remove the rear seat assembly from the car, just tilt it forward and rotate it over the backs of the front seats , and slide out sideways. No need to remove a front seat.The side trim panels are last to come out, (if required) they are locked in by the rear seat.

Sean Murray
----- Original Message -----
From: ***@***.***
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Engine mounts, VIN plates etc (long)


Dave wrote:


Although I haven't done it, I don't think changing it would be difficult. I believe you have to remove the center tunnel trim. That's the difficult part. To do so, I'm pretty sure you have to at least lift the rear seats, which means taking a whole bunch of stuff apart (including removing the rear side panels?). To actually remove the rear seat (that shouldn't be necessary for this), you have to remove a front seat.

I love the +2 interior trim , but it can be a real pain when it's in the way.
--
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California

[dlbutler]

Here's more on Q-1. The motor mounts can delaminate and collapse providing
a good metal-to-metal path for engine vibration to the chassis. If you can't
put your finger in the space between the metal part bolted to the chassis and
the metal part bolted to the engine (at the top) their junk. From my
experience they last about 15 years regardless of mileage. If they deteriorate
too much the fan (if you have one installed) will hit the radiator.

Their not hard to replace if you have a jack to support the engine although
Webers make that side easier from the bottom adding two jack strands to the
required list ("not hard" does NOT mean fast or easy, just strait forward).

Don Butler
45/9469

davidguycroft wrote:

[Harald S. Feeß]

David,


Possible. Try new ones, they are not too expensive.


Not difficult. Buy best quality from a good supplier !
(Don?t know if +2 has different mountings left side and right side ?)


It?s easy.
But: Webers don?t need the choke if you don?t use your car at very low temperatures.
(I blocked my choke system completely to avoid too rich mixture caused by afaulty system.)





Several ways possible:
- ask the dealer
- find PO to ask him
- find the one who did the chassis change
- ask Scotland Yard, Sherlock Holmes, Dr Watson, Charlie Chan, Clive Chapman ...
- make a seance and ask Colin himself
- ...



Ask a classic Lotus restorer / parts supplier ?



This is a moral issue.


Can?t tell you. But it was alright for 15 years.
(Used cars often have an interesting history. Is it better to know or not to know ?)


Good luck

Harry
Munich, Germany
71 Elan Sprint

[elansprint71]

At the recent Club Lotus parts fair, Mick Miller was selling brand new blank
VIN plates.

And it is..... gaiter

Pete



-----Original Message-----
From: davidguycroft [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: 07 December 2001 16:52
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Engine mounts, VIN plates etc (long)


I've been saving up these questions for a while, so please excuse the
multiple subjects...

Question 1 - could worn-out engine mounts make my car get noisier?

Just dropped my Plus 2 off at the mechanics (to get brakes and some
other stuff sorted) and he said (as soon as he started the car) that
the engine mountings needed replacement. I'm not in the least
surprised, as another guy said the mounts were on their way out 10,000
miles ago.

The thing is...I'm sure the car has got noisier recently, especially
under full throttle acceleration.

The fact that the gear lever gater (gator?) is split probably isn't
helping the noise levels - I intend to (try to) change this myself...so
(Question 2) - can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do?

Question 3 - how easy is it to change the choke cable assembly?

...and Question 4 (I'm really scared to ask this one) - My car hasn't
got a proper VIN plate. It's got a chassis no. stamped onto a plate
(about 2" by 1") pop-riveted on the bulkhead next to the left hand
bonnet catch . This is '50***' (can't remember exactly).

I now understand that there should be an alloy plate on the inner wheel
arch - the holes are still there.

Looking back, I can't believe I didn't check this out. I bought the car
from a major and reputable dealer in SE England, complete with a
history file going back to the mid 80's. I saw the little plate and
thought 'well maybe that's how they all are', and didn't even consider
the possibility that the car could be iffy. The car has a galvanised
chassis, so it wouldn't have a number matching the plate anyway, would
it?

So, is it possible to verify the identity of the car. If it is all ok,
can I get a new VIN plate? If it isn't 'kosher', is it best to just
forget about the whole issue, and just hope that I find someone as
naive and trusting as me when (if) I come to sell it?

Please tell me it'll be alright...

Cheers

David
('71 Plus 2S)












reserved.

[abstamaria]

I recently installed modified mounts from Tony Thompson. These have the
air space between the metal frame and the rubber filled up with what appears
to be some silicone or similar material from a tube. Seems like a good
idea. My temporary fix for failed mounts has been to jack up the engine and
insert a rubber piece between the metal pieces of the failed mount.

Andres
Manila
45/8439

[lotocone]

"Sean Murray" wrote:


Thanks for the clarification and suggestion about removing the rear seat. I'll try that next time, although that may not work with the high back seats. Now I remember I needed to remove those side trim panels before, which caused me to pull everything out - right or wrong. I now need to remove them again to replace the rear window seal.
--
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California



__________________________________________________________________