Winter Storage

PostPost by: "David & Virgini » Mon Dec 13, 1999 5:03 pm

What steps does one take to prepare the Lotus for over winter storage?
"My Classic Car" on TNN this past weekend had segment by Jim
Richardson "Restoration Tips". He suggested: 1. Wash and wax the car,
2. Wash out wheel wells and dry them, 3. Change the oil and filter 4.
Disconnect the battery, 5. Add fuel stabilizer, and 6. Periodically
hook up the battery and run the engine for 20 min.

He had more elaborate suggestions for long term storage and if there
is interest, I can submit them to the list later. The Web site is
www.myclassiccar.com there is a link to the storage article.

David Caley
66 Seven
66 Elan
63 Elite
99 Miata
96 Yukon







"David & Virgini
 

PostPost by: "Peter Boegli" » Mon Dec 13, 1999 5:18 pm

I fully agree with steps 1-4. I doubt the value of #5 with modern fuel, and
I disagree with #6: Running the engine produces water and acid diluting the
oil and provoking internal corrosion. Some of the dilution is evaporated
again when the engine gets hot, but 20 min. is not really long enough.
I pour a "spoonful" of new engine oil into every spark plug hole and turn
the engine over by hand. If I ever touch the engine during winter time
(which I usually don't) I repeat this procedure.
In addition I raise the tyre pressure to the maximum inducated on the side
wall in order to minimize any flat spot tendency.

Just my 2 Rappen
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: David & Virginia Caley <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 6:03 PM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Winter Storage








"Peter Boegli"
 

PostPost by: BrianMartley » Tue Dec 14, 1999 7:11 pm

David,

I know the arguments about running/not running the engine. Personally I'd
run it just to circulate the oil and make sure the clutch doesn't stick - as
it has just done on my car


Brian






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PostPost by: ElanCpe at xxx.xxx » Tue Dec 14, 1999 11:10 pm

I would recommend the purchase of a set of jack stands. Allows the
suspension to fully "Droop". Also avoids flat spots on tires. Change oil
and filter. Disconnect the battery (or Switch off) However, turn the engine
by the crank pulley about once a week (Not more than monthly) to avoid flat
spotting the water pump shaft. I start the motor about each 3 months just to
get everything circulating. Pump the clutch and brakes on startup. Avoids
freezing the brake pucks. I stored my racing Elan each year for 6 months
this way. However, prior to vintage racing, when racing SCCA etc. winter was
engine overhaul time. It still is a good time for inspection of all parts.
Cheers,
Bill
[email protected]





ElanCpe at xxx.xxx
 

PostPost by: "David & Virgini » Tue Dec 14, 1999 11:12 pm

Brian, I agree, I try to run up the car for 10 miles or 20 min every
month. The article about long term storage (years) he suggested
blocking the clutch open by putting a 2X4 between the front seat and
the clutch pedal. With Lotus and hydraulic clutches one would have to
wire or prop the clutch release fork at the bell housing, rather than
maintaining hydraulic pressure for years. By the way he suggested
replacing the hydraulic brake fluid with silicone DOT 5 brake fluid to
reduce corrosion there! David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Martley" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Winter Storage















"David & Virgini
 

PostPost by: "Phil Kogan" &l » Wed Dec 15, 1999 12:41 am

Hi

I am new to the list, but have 66 S2 elan dhc since 1972.. Still in
original condition. Meaning I have fixed or replaced most things on it
(except rear suspension and diff). The car has seen Autocross use in NY
metropolitan area (1974 to 78) then Eastern Massachusetts in 78 to 81, when
we went go-kart racing. This car is destined to stay fairly original
looking (it won't be restored to perfection but will stay pretty)

The only concern I would have of jacking the car and letting it droop is

1 This will put a shear force on the suspension bushings

2 I am hesitant to put that much deflection into the rear donuts.

I also have a question for the group

I need to rebuild my trans due to non working second gear synchro. Any
suggestions?

I have been afraid to tackle the rear struts for many years. How difficult
of a job is that. Which struts work best.

Any people here put alternate engine and transmission types in an S2.
MR2 Can this mount to Ford bellhousing. OR can the 5 speed from the
Corolla GTs fit in.
The engine is out with blown head gasket (actually the engine is out to get
the trans out and to weld up a crack on the right engine support.)


Thanks for any info. Many questions to come.

ie anyone have a sound car that could be the basis for a killer street,
autocross, time trial machine.

Can a Zetec be coerced to fit.



Phil Kogan
[email protected]


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Winter Storage











"Phil Kogan" &l
 

PostPost by: Lawrence King <lawrenc » Wed Dec 15, 1999 3:17 am

I thought about putting the car up on jack stands, but decided against
in because the rotoflex couplings would be under stress with the rear
suspension in full droop. Just my two cents worth....

-Lawrence-

[email protected] wrote:

--
Lawrence King Ottawa Ontario Canada
http://www.promobility.net/lawrence
I am reading a very interesting book about anti-gravity.
I just can't put it down.





Lawrence King <lawrenc
 

PostPost by: abstamaria » Wed Dec 15, 1999 4:46 am

I also do not think that "full droop" storage is good for the standard Elan
suspension. Remember that the metalastic bushes are tightened with the
suspension in normal ride-height position. When the suspension is allowed
to droop, the rubber in the bushes (which is bonded to the outer and inner
metal sleeves of the bush) twists and is maintained in a twisted position.
This can't be too good for the bushes.

However, if rose joints (Heim joints in the U.S.) are used at the suspension
ends and U-joints or CV joints used in the rear drive, it should be alright
to jack up the car and maintain the suspension in full droop. But there are
several others on the List who will know better. If this is wrong, let me
know!

Andres
45/8439
Manila














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PostPost by: "Paul Lane, Jr." » Wed Dec 15, 1999 8:05 am

Andreas,

Why are folks so reluctant to disconnect the outer doughnuts when
reconnecting the is so much fun? Unless the snow is deep and the salt an
inch thick on the roads, what is the hang up on giving the car a good
run once a week? Perhaps a case of me too mindset. Elans are a blast to
drive on packed snow or ice. Used to do it all the time.

Paul

"A.B. Sta. Maria" wrote:





"Paul Lane, Jr."
 

PostPost by: abstamaria » Wed Dec 15, 1999 11:51 pm

Hello Paul,

I agree with you completely. In the mid-1970s, I kept my Elan in a small
town in New Jersey (same Elan I have now) and used to drive it on weekends
in the dead of winter. With the top down!

However, I suppose snow, salt, and mud do take their toll on the car, so,
and, not wishing to do a full restoration again, I probablly would hesitate
to do that now. That's what Miatas are for, I suppose.

Regards, and Merry Christmas and a Good New Year to you and all on the List.

Andres
Manila
45/8439





















abstamaria
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PostPost by: ElanCpe at xxx.xxx » Thu Dec 16, 1999 12:21 am

Kiyoshi -
Jack stands at the furthest outer location of the suspention is what I
failed to mention. Good point. I would actually use a 2"x4" to distribute
the weight across the arms. If you place the 2x4 far enough out it will be
within ?" of the brake disk.
Thanks for the reminder of the GGLC website tech notes on cam timing.
Bill
[email protected]





ElanCpe at xxx.xxx
 

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