I am pointless!

[paul_adamson]

I've just replaced the points and condenser in my Elan's distributor
with one of those popular Igniters.

Fitting is was easy.
The wiring is simplicity itself.
The components look well constructed and all the parts fit well.

I noticed one other thing. There is now more ignition scatter around
idle.
I half expected this. I had guessed beforehand that the heel of the
points set would cause some drag on the distributor and it looks like
this drag take some of the play out of the system.

Now, without the points, and at low rpm. there's more wobble going on.

Has anyone else notice this?

Now, I have two more questions.
Q1. Do you think that the advance curve will have changed in any way
with the removal of the points?
Q2. While the specs for the ignition timing are specified at idle, does
anyone on the list work from the other end?
i.e.. Does anyone set the ignition timing at e.g. .35deg. at 4000
rpm and ignore what advance that gives at idle?

Paul (pointless) Adamson.

[Esprit2]

From: "Paul Adamson" <***@***.***>
To: "***@***.***" <***@***.***>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 5:11 PM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] I am pointless!


Eliminating the points usually reduces the amount of scatter in a good
distributor. If yours is now showing more scatter, the distributors
bushings are worn.



No, the advance curve is controlled by the flyweights and springs.
Installing the Ignitor doesn't affect them or the advance curve.



Setting the static timing at full advance/ high rpm is the more accurate
way to go, but less convenient. I usually do that initially and make note
of what idle setting results. Then use that value to quick-check the
timing at idle in the future.

Later,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North

[Tim Moore]

I have the Pertronix ignitor in my 1970 Elan S4 Se,, beware of this problemin the future. My car leaks major oil ( I have a new Rubber , oil down tube to install in the spring),, It has oil everywhere.. 1 Day as I was driving after a 26 mile round trip , The car started to run on only 2 cylinders. After 3 hours of trouble shooting and new plugs, We found the problem was the Black, round, Plastic Pertronix part with the 4 magnets.. Oil had seeped in the unit, as it is not sealed, and covered 2 magnets..
After we cleaned it well, we put the magnets back in. CAUTION, to avoid major hours of work, (DONT DO WHAT WE DID)...take only 1 out at a time, clean, and replace in the SAME position as it came out..You MUST put a plastic spacer in the unit, as the magnetic pull will make all 4 pop out and stick together..We found later, after 40 combinations of magnet fitting, that they are ALL Polarized and can only go in 1 way...
I intend to seal the round black unit with superglue this spring, so the unit will be water and oil proof...It is now working fine.. Tim Moore USA

Paul Adamson <***@***.***> wrote:

I've just replaced the points and condenser in my Elan's distributor
with one of those popular Igniters.

Fitting is was easy.
The wiring is simplicity itself.
The components look well constructed and all the parts fit well.

I noticed one other thing. There is now more ignition scatter around
idle.
I half expected this. I had guessed beforehand that the heel of the
points set would cause some drag on the distributor and it looks like
this drag take some of the play out of the system.

Now, without the points, and at low rpm. there's more wobble going on.

Has anyone else notice this?

Now, I have two more questions.
Q1. Do you think that the advance curve will have changed in any way
with the removal of the points?
Q2. While the specs for the ignition timing are specified at idle, does
anyone on the list work from the other end?
i.e.. Does anyone set the ignition timing at e.g. .35deg. at 4000
rpm and ignore what advance that gives at idle?

Paul (pointless) Adamson.



























---------------------------------

Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.

[john.p.clegg]

wouldn't the heel of the cam drag on the cam,opposing the spring/bob weights?
John


No, the advance curve is controlled by the flyweights and springs.
Installing the Ignitor doesn't affect them or the advance curve.

[Elanman99]

Tim

In my experience its not the presence of oil that caused your problem as oil
will not have any effect on magnetic forces, although suspended (magnetic)
metal particles could eventually build to a thickness that would 'short out'
the magnetic field.

The moulded magnet housing on my ignitor separated into its two parts whilst
driving allowing the magnets to become displaced resulting in very poor
running.

I reassembled the two halves of the moulding and secured it with superglue
only to have the same thing happen again! The second time I rebuilt it I put
an excess of RTV silicone in the various mould cavities and let it extrude
out when I pressed the parts together.

Its never missed s beat since.

Ian Phillips


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Moore [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 2:14 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] I am pointless! Possible Pertronix
problem..



I have the Pertronix ignitor in my 1970 Elan S4 Se,, beware of this problem
in the future. My car leaks major oil ( I have a new Rubber , oil down tube
to install in the spring),, It has oil everywhere.. 1 Day as I was driving
after a 26 mile round trip , The car started to run on only 2 cylinders.
After 3 hours of trouble shooting and new plugs, We found the problem was
the Black, round, Plastic Pertronix part with the 4 magnets.. Oil had seeped
in the unit, as it is not sealed, and covered 2 magnets..
After we cleaned it well, we put the magnets back in. CAUTION,
to avoid major hours of work, (DONT DO WHAT WE DID)...take only 1 out at a
time, clean, and replace in the SAME position as it came out..You MUST put
a plastic spacer in the unit, as the magnetic pull will make all 4 pop out
and stick together..We found later, after 40 combinations of magnet fitting,
that they are ALL Polarized and can only go in 1 way...
I intend to seal the round black unit with superglue this
spring, so the unit will be water and oil proof...It is now working fine..
Tim Moore USA

Paul Adamson <***@***.***> wrote:

I've just replaced the points and condenser in my Elan's distributor
with one of those popular Igniters.

Fitting is was easy.
The wiring is simplicity itself.
The components look well constructed and all the parts fit well.

I noticed one other thing. There is now more ignition scatter around
idle.
I half expected this. I had guessed beforehand that the heel of the
points set would cause some drag on the distributor and it looks like
this drag take some of the play out of the system.

Now, without the points, and at low rpm. there's more wobble going on.

Has anyone else notice this?

Now, I have two more questions.
Q1. Do you think that the advance curve will have changed in any way
with the removal of the points?
Q2. While the specs for the ignition timing are specified at idle, does
anyone on the list work from the other end?
i.e.. Does anyone set the ignition timing at e.g. .35deg. at 4000
rpm and ignore what advance that gives at idle?

Paul (pointless) Adamson.



























---------------------------------

Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.

[steveww]

Static timing is only a starting point to get the engine running.
Ideally the timing should be set up on a rolling road as you can usually
get a few more degrees advance from the safe settings in the manual.

Checking the advance at 4000rpm is a good way to make sure the dizzy is
working.

Sounds like the dizzy has worn out and needs a refurb. Try H&H or Aldon
for this.

Paul Adamson wrote:

[paul_adamson]

who are H&H?


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Waterworth [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: 30 October 2004 12:52
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] I am pointless!


Static timing is only a starting point to get the engine running.
Ideally the timing should be set up on a rolling road as you can usually

get a few more degrees advance from the safe settings in the manual.

Checking the advance at 4000rpm is a good way to make sure the dizzy is
working.

Sounds like the dizzy has worn out and needs a refurb. Try H&H or Aldon
for this.

Paul Adamson wrote:

[steveww]

H&H ignition solutions 01384 261500

Paul Adamson wrote: