Weber Tweaks

PostPost by: type26owner » Thu Aug 31, 2000 5:02 pm

George,
I ran it hard today coming to work, about a 45 minute drive. Went the
back way there is no traffic and is purpose built for the Elan. Lots of
people have driven it on one of Mike Ostrov's frequent outings. Outside
temp on an overcast day here is mid-sixties. Popped the bonnet and felt
the carburetors, they were about 10 F above ambient only. Sitting in
traffic with the convection currents streaming straight up off the
exhaust the engine bay is like an oven. At least a metal bodied car
would help here with lower R rating.

Resonators are always located nearer the exhaust outlet. That canister
is primarily tuning the back pressure.
--
Keith Franck

LBNL Engineering

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PostPost by: gobw2 » Thu Aug 31, 2000 11:38 pm

On Thu, 31 Aug 2000 10:02:27 -0700 Keith Franck <***@***.***>
writes:

opened up old can- just a continuation of pipe with a bunch of aprox 3/4
holes drilled in the side. Paid a pretty fancy price for that.
So, Keith if I can infer - I talked to a performance exhaust shop which
suggested Stainless exhaust and eliminating it. Mine is again
perforated, and I am on total vehicle rebuild. They stated- reduced
restriction, freer exhaust flow, slight increase in noise. I now suspect
they are good at bending pipes and fitting up, light in technical. If
it is eliminated, one could expect greater pressure pulsations at the
exhaust ports, with the effect being a net increase in backpressure? and
consequently a noticable LOSS in performance?

too bad - stainless exhaust looked nice. George
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PostPost by: type26owner » Fri Sep 01, 2000 2:54 am

I guessing if Mr. Chapman was willing cut into his profit margin by
inserting a canister there were some damn good reasons. Being useless or
worse hindering performance I don't think were some of them.

--
Keith Franck

***@***.***

Aston Martin 55' DB2/4 Mk1

Lotus Elan 66' S2
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PostPost by: "William \" Ski » Fri Sep 01, 2000 3:14 am

Keith...

First of all the wire diameter is .030. Secondly, I have always had to use
about the same amount of choke for the same amount of time. My car will not
start or run the first mile when cold without choke regardless of the
outside temperature. Third, I use insulating tape on the exhaust system of
my homebuilt helicopter. It works great. I use a double wrap and spray it
with high heat paint. It allows me to run oil and cooling lines within 2" of
the exhaust system with the engine running continuously at about 4250 rpm.

Skip King

'69 Elan S4SE
'61 Seven S2

Measure it with a micrometer
Mark it with a grease pencil
Cut it with an ax


"William \" Ski
 

PostPost by: type26owner » Fri Sep 01, 2000 3:26 am

I didn't answer your question about engines earlier. I've got a
completely stock S2 with a twincam. Yes, I think there is an inherent
problem with the engine bay getting hot enough so there is not enough of
a temperature gradient for the radiator to transfer the heat load
efficiently. Louvers in the bonnet here we come or could enough of the
heat from the exhaust actually to redirected out of the tailpipe. Maybe
be a trick coating or double walled system for instance. Current exhaust
system technology is not subject I'm not up to speed on. Catching the
body on fire is not a good option I'm certain. Good thing these beasts
don't have cats.

I'll bet almost everyone can solve their overheating problem by removing
the bonnet. This includes me too. Next bit of hot weather I'll try it.
--
Keith Franck

***@***.***

Aston Martin 55' DB2/4 Mk1

Lotus Elan 66' S2
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PostPost by: type26owner » Fri Sep 01, 2000 4:07 am

Skip,
I left my original spring over at folks house so I can't make a
comparison until I fetch it maybe this weekend. Thanks for the feedback.

Tape works on tissue paper thin exhaust system, great!. What color do
you use? Hehe
--
Keith Franck

***@***.***

Aston Martin 55' DB2/4 Mk1

Lotus Elan 66' S2
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