solid axles
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I too plan on replacing my rotoflexes with either a sliding spline or the CV joint setup. Most people seem to prefer the CV joint setup except Tony Thompson. I think either would be fine, with the CV joints perhaps superior andd the sliding splines more 'authentic' and lighter. TTR wants 660 pounds for the sliding spline with stronger differential shafts and 665 with the CV joint setup. Bean didn't have a sliding spline setup to sell and only had the 'racing' version of their CV joint setup with strong differential shafts for 1350 dollars.
I also wanted feedback on the pros and cons of different methods of painting a chassis. Powdercoating usually looks great and is very tough, but are there problems with it versus other methods?
Mark VanOsdel
1967 DHC
I also wanted feedback on the pros and cons of different methods of painting a chassis. Powdercoating usually looks great and is very tough, but are there problems with it versus other methods?
Mark VanOsdel
1967 DHC
- "Mark Van Osdel"
Mark
There are actually advantages to the donuts... hard to imagine, but they are
simple, light, don't lock up under high torque loads.
Splines are heavier, lock up under high torque loads (eliminating suspension
travel instantly!), must be maintained (grease & replace u-joints).
CV are heaviest, easy to maintain (keep boot intact & grease), don't lock
up. Best choice if you can live with added weight (both sprung & unsprung.
Item 2 - Painting the chassis. I opted for POR (paint) over powercoating.
The chassis does flex which would cause powercoat to crack. Moisture will
collect in the cracks and rust will form under the powercoat. Typically this
will happen in the places you can't see, at the base of shock towers, at the
Y & T in the chassis, around the engine mounts, etc.
Kiyoshi
________________________________________________________________________
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 22:04:59 -0700
From: "Mark Van Osdel" <***@***.***>
Subject: solid axles
I too plan on replacing my rotoflexes with either a sliding spline or the CV
joint setup. Most people seem to prefer the CV joint setup except Tony
Thompson. I think either would be fine, with the CV joints perhaps superior
andd the sliding splines more 'authentic' and lighter. TTR wants 660 pounds
for the sliding spline with stronger differential shafts and 665 with the CV
joint setup. Bean didn't have a sliding spline setup to sell and only had
the 'racing' version of their CV joint setup with strong differential shafts
for 1350 dollars.
I also wanted feedback on the pros and cons of different methods of painting
a chassis. Powdercoating usually looks great and is very tough, but are
there problems with it versus other methods?
Mark VanOsdel
1967 DHC
There are actually advantages to the donuts... hard to imagine, but they are
simple, light, don't lock up under high torque loads.
Splines are heavier, lock up under high torque loads (eliminating suspension
travel instantly!), must be maintained (grease & replace u-joints).
CV are heaviest, easy to maintain (keep boot intact & grease), don't lock
up. Best choice if you can live with added weight (both sprung & unsprung.
Item 2 - Painting the chassis. I opted for POR (paint) over powercoating.
The chassis does flex which would cause powercoat to crack. Moisture will
collect in the cracks and rust will form under the powercoat. Typically this
will happen in the places you can't see, at the base of shock towers, at the
Y & T in the chassis, around the engine mounts, etc.
Kiyoshi
________________________________________________________________________
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 22:04:59 -0700
From: "Mark Van Osdel" <***@***.***>
Subject: solid axles
I too plan on replacing my rotoflexes with either a sliding spline or the CV
joint setup. Most people seem to prefer the CV joint setup except Tony
Thompson. I think either would be fine, with the CV joints perhaps superior
andd the sliding splines more 'authentic' and lighter. TTR wants 660 pounds
for the sliding spline with stronger differential shafts and 665 with the CV
joint setup. Bean didn't have a sliding spline setup to sell and only had
the 'racing' version of their CV joint setup with strong differential shafts
for 1350 dollars.
I also wanted feedback on the pros and cons of different methods of painting
a chassis. Powdercoating usually looks great and is very tough, but are
there problems with it versus other methods?
Mark VanOsdel
1967 DHC
-
khamai - Third Gear
- Posts: 266
- Joined: 20 Oct 2003
Hi Kiyoshi, how have you been?
I totally agree with the comment about the moisture and rust in cracks. Paint will wick into a crack or seam whereas powercoat actually avoids them.
But... I'm not so sure about the cracking of powdercoating due to normal flexing. I took a flat piece of sheetmetal that was powdercoated and bent it radically back and forth and back and...etc. I couldn't believe how flexible it was. Regular paint would have cracked before that stuff did. the powder itself is some sort of poly...
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California
__________________________________________________________________
I totally agree with the comment about the moisture and rust in cracks. Paint will wick into a crack or seam whereas powercoat actually avoids them.
But... I'm not so sure about the cracking of powdercoating due to normal flexing. I took a flat piece of sheetmetal that was powdercoated and bent it radically back and forth and back and...etc. I couldn't believe how flexible it was. Regular paint would have cracked before that stuff did. the powder itself is some sort of poly...
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California
__________________________________________________________________
- lotocone
- Third Gear
- Posts: 410
- Joined: 09 Feb 2010
I think that is why epople don't want you using powder coat on highly stressed items that are prone to cracking. They say that powder coat is so flexible, that the structure underneath could have failed and cracked and yet the powder coat does not and it hides the crack.
Roger
I totally agree with the comment about the moisture and rust in cracks. Paint will wick into a crack or seam whereas powercoat actually avoids them.
But... I'm not so sure about the cracking of powdercoating due to normal flexing. I took a flat piece of sheetmetal that was powdercoated and bent it radically back and forth and back and...etc. I couldn't believe how flexible it was. Regular paint would have cracked before that stuff did. the powder itself is some sort of poly...
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California
__________________________________________________________________
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Roger
I totally agree with the comment about the moisture and rust in cracks. Paint will wick into a crack or seam whereas powercoat actually avoids them.
But... I'm not so sure about the cracking of powdercoating due to normal flexing. I took a flat piece of sheetmetal that was powdercoated and bent it radically back and forth and back and...etc. I couldn't believe how flexible it was. Regular paint would have cracked before that stuff did. the powder itself is some sort of poly...
Ken Claiborne
26/4396
50/0118N
So California
__________________________________________________________________
*
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This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they
are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify
the system manager.
This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by
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- Elan45
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2519
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
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