Cantrail Hardware

[garyeanderson]

I was asked by Ross is I had any extra eyes for the windscreen frame that the cantrail bayonetts insert into. Of corse I had some around loose. Out of the 5 windscreen frames and 6 cantrails I could only find 5 of the eyes. I think there were 8 of the bayonettes so I was a little bet better off there but still short in the overall numbers needed. I also came across the rear bolts of the cantrails that insert into the body so I took some photos of all of them to get that info on the forum. The cantrail bayonette eyes that bolt to the windscreen frame are 1/4 28 tpi. The 2 studs on the bayonettes/spigots into the cantrail are (correction by Anna) 2BA . The rear bolts that go through the bobbin in the cantrail and into the body are 1/4 20 tpi, I hope this is of some use to the folks with S1's and S2's

If anyone has questions ask them now as this will soon be lost in the bottomless pit of internet stuff, if you think you may have a need for it in the future bookmark the page now

Gary


























The overall length of the eyes is 1 1/16 inches



Bill308 asked for more info so here it is.

The pin overall length is an 1 1/2 inches with nearly 5/8 of an inch threaded 1/4 20 unc, the diameter is something near 1/8 inch on the rear pin of the cantrail that inserts into the body to locate it.

The two 2BA studs are an inch apart and another 1 inch and 5/8" to the stop washer near the front of the bayonette, the lengths are slightly different so probably not critical. The offset /joggle appears to be 5/16 inch.






The hood clips were in the same can and had all of the original hardware intact so I took photos while I was at it. They still have the rubber washers on them, I assune they are original...

[Ross Robbins]

Thank you very much Gary. Now I can fabricate something as I was unable to clearly visualize what Bob Herzog and Ken Gray had described to me. What a wonderful group of Elanists we have! And what a wonderful forum.

[DJThom]

Thanks Gary. These were missing on my car when I got it and fortunately I was able to measure another chaps car before he disassembled for restoration. Perfect post for others in my boat without the same luxury of a car to measure.

I had a local retired machinist make me some out of stainless which I've since polished.

[Emma-Knight]

On my car the two studs from the bayonet are 2 BA. They seem to be original, just a tiny bit smaller than 1/4 UNF.
Maybe someone will have a look at the part list.
The eyebolts on my car are not correct - now I know what I have to fabricate...

Anna

(was going 500 miles with Lotus last three weeks - no problem so far)

PS: the oil pickup thread is very interesting - I will check when I feel inspired to take the oil pan off

[garyeanderson]

On my car the two studs from the bayonet are 2 BA. They seem to be original, just a tiny bit smaller than 1/4 UNF.
Maybe someone will have a look at the part list.
The eyebolts on my car are not correct - now I know what I have to fabricate...

Anna

(was going 500 miles with Lotus last three weeks - no problem so far)

PS: the oil pickup thread is very interesting - I will check when I feel inspired to take the oil pan off

Parts manual lists Spigot to cantrail as 2 BA, I just took another look and they bayonette/spigots are indeed smaller in diameter. God eyes Anna

Gary

[bill308]

Great post Gary.

Can you provide threaded length of the cantral to rear deck bolt?

Also, please provide the diameter and length of unthreaded bayonette of the rear deck bolt?

Is the same rear deck bolt used to retain the factory hard top?

It appears from your photos that orientation of the eyebolt flat, is towards the cantrail mounted bayonette. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Bill

[garyeanderson]

Great post Gary.

Can you provide threaded length of the cantral to rear deck bolt?
5/8 inch

Also, please provide the diameter and length of unthreaded bayonette of the rear deck bolt?
.125 diameter x 7/8 inch length

Is the same rear deck bolt used to retain the factory hard top?
No, I don't think so. The hardtop bobbins are clear (my hardtop the bobbins are hogged out to give some room to position it where it needs to sit) and the body bobbins are threaded with 1/4 20 unc, I use 1 and 1/2 inch long bolts and tighten them, all of the bobbins are 5/8 of an inch thick so 1 and 1/4 is the minimum bolt you should use, with a strip of rubber under the hardtop the 1 1/2 seems just about right

It appears from your photos that orientation of the eyebolt flat, is towards the cantrail mounted bayonette. Is this correct?
Yes, to acomitate the flat washer stop.

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill

I added more photos above with dimensions

[bill308]

Thanks again for the definitive, dimensional information. You're a highly valued resource for the forum.

Bill

[Elanintheforest]

A big thank-you from me as well, Gary. My S2 was taken apart in 1978 by the previous owner, and I got the car in many boxes and piles of anonymous components. Every time you post something about the S1 / S2, another little mystery is solved on my car...sometimes even when I didn't know I had a mystery!

Your efforts are hugely appreciated, and this sort of detailed information will be invaluable for many restorers of these cars to come.

Mark

[Emma-Knight]

Time for the "Gary Anderson Archive" hm? We should also note the bracket that holds the left hand cantrail in boot retaining strap....
I've never seen that before - especially not on my car!

Anna

[rongibson]

Pity the pictures don't seem to be available