Brake pads
8 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Thanks to all regarding tire pressures.....
Now.... who's making a good type of pads for autocross these days?
I am running stock S4 sprint calipers with braided lines and no servo.
By the way, the car is winning it's class in my region, thanks in part to the members of this website. I think I could do a better job however, if the brakes bit a little harder especially when cold.
http://www3.telus.net/public/miketodd/IACS2_06.jpg
Now.... who's making a good type of pads for autocross these days?
I am running stock S4 sprint calipers with braided lines and no servo.
By the way, the car is winning it's class in my region, thanks in part to the members of this website. I think I could do a better job however, if the brakes bit a little harder especially when cold.
http://www3.telus.net/public/miketodd/IACS2_06.jpg
- mct340
- Second Gear
- Posts: 70
- Joined: 08 Oct 2003
Car looks good at speed. What region are you running in ?
John
PS
Topeka is a nice place to run your Elan in September
[quote="mct340"]Thanks to all regarding tire pressures.....
Now.... who's making a good type of pads for autocross these days?
I am running stock S4 sprint calipers with braided lines and no servo.
By the way, the car is winning it's class in my region, thanks in part to the members of this website. I think I could do a better job however, if the brakes bit a little harder especially when cold.
http://www3.telus.net/public/miketodd/IACS2_06.jpg[/quote]
John
PS
Topeka is a nice place to run your Elan in September
[quote="mct340"]Thanks to all regarding tire pressures.....
Now.... who's making a good type of pads for autocross these days?
I am running stock S4 sprint calipers with braided lines and no servo.
By the way, the car is winning it's class in my region, thanks in part to the members of this website. I think I could do a better job however, if the brakes bit a little harder especially when cold.
http://www3.telus.net/public/miketodd/IACS2_06.jpg[/quote]
-
jrwiseman - First Gear
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Mike,
I like these Carbon/Kevlar ones. They are expensive. I'm using the BLUE rated ones for trackdays. You might consider the RED ones if you don't get the brakes temps above 1200F autocrossing. They should give plenty of braking friction. They work great when stone cold and soaking wet.
Best to call Lee and get his advice.
http://www.leechapmanracing.com/kfp_magnum_pads.htm
I like these Carbon/Kevlar ones. They are expensive. I'm using the BLUE rated ones for trackdays. You might consider the RED ones if you don't get the brakes temps above 1200F autocrossing. They should give plenty of braking friction. They work great when stone cold and soaking wet.
Best to call Lee and get his advice.
http://www.leechapmanracing.com/kfp_magnum_pads.htm
- type26owner
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 18 Sep 2003
I am no autocross braking specialist but the things I would look for would be:
1. Disks in good condition, recently machined and not glazed or with wear grooves.
2. Pads with high coefficent of friction ( about .5) from cold. EBC green stuff or similar pads give good performance from cold plus high temperature performance that would be more than good enough for most autocross courses I would believe. Carbon Kevlar pads from various manufacturers give similar performance from cold but much more expensive as they have better ultimate high temperature life and performance, really only need for track racing applications with sustained high speed braking.
3. Slotted and spotted disks ( EBC make them) give better initial bite than plain disks and work better in wet and at high temperatures.
4. A booster will give better iniital bite than an unboosted system but less control on the limit. If you dont have a booster learn to mentaly adjust from the brake pressures you are used to in your road car and be prepared to give the brake pedal a decent push.
5. Minimum disk run out will minimise pad knock off and pedal travel until the brakes start to work.
6. In an Elan with modern sticky tyres you need to restrict rear braking versus front as weight transfer to front much greater than orginally designed for. Use lower coefficent pads at rear or install a rear pressure limiting valve.
Rohan
1. Disks in good condition, recently machined and not glazed or with wear grooves.
2. Pads with high coefficent of friction ( about .5) from cold. EBC green stuff or similar pads give good performance from cold plus high temperature performance that would be more than good enough for most autocross courses I would believe. Carbon Kevlar pads from various manufacturers give similar performance from cold but much more expensive as they have better ultimate high temperature life and performance, really only need for track racing applications with sustained high speed braking.
3. Slotted and spotted disks ( EBC make them) give better initial bite than plain disks and work better in wet and at high temperatures.
4. A booster will give better iniital bite than an unboosted system but less control on the limit. If you dont have a booster learn to mentaly adjust from the brake pressures you are used to in your road car and be prepared to give the brake pedal a decent push.
5. Minimum disk run out will minimise pad knock off and pedal travel until the brakes start to work.
6. In an Elan with modern sticky tyres you need to restrict rear braking versus front as weight transfer to front much greater than orginally designed for. Use lower coefficent pads at rear or install a rear pressure limiting valve.
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8415
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Hey Mike,
I'm also no autocross expert but I do understand tweaking the supension. You might try toeing out the fronts rather than the normal toe-in. This will increase the ackerman at large steering angles which should increase the grip a bit at those low speeds (it's greatly dependent on the slip angle of your tires though). You don't really need the braking stability that front toe-in provides you at high speed anyways.
I'm also no autocross expert but I do understand tweaking the supension. You might try toeing out the fronts rather than the normal toe-in. This will increase the ackerman at large steering angles which should increase the grip a bit at those low speeds (it's greatly dependent on the slip angle of your tires though). You don't really need the braking stability that front toe-in provides you at high speed anyways.
- type26owner
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 18 Sep 2003
mct340 wrote:John,
Well Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore.....we're on Vancouver Island British Columbia, Canada.
Well its a bit of a ride/tow from where you are at I will try and take some pictures this year. The entry list can be seen at
http://ams.scca.com/netforum/eweb/dynam ... 801c617a5f
enjoy
john
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jrwiseman - First Gear
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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