struggle to accelerate

[checkrail]

Thanks for that info. I will try tomorrow and perhaps will finally get it right.

One other thing that I don't suppose is relevant but there are two yellow wires twisted and soldered together and connected to the earth tag that the solenoid uses, they come out of the loom.

John.

[sprintsoft]

Hi John, how do you know this yellow wire carries a resistance? You can measure the resistance to verify that. In case that it does carry a resistance as ballast it will be useless with your 12v coil as it will never give you 12v, more like 9v which will not drive a 12v coil fully.

As to the yellow wires joined and earthed?! ... goodness who can tell what other horrors are lurking, I still think you need a pro in there to check it all out for you.
Iain

[checkrail]

Hi Iain, My coil is 9v. If the lead from the ignition switch is connected to the starter signal terminal I need a piggy back connection for the yellow resister lead.
When I had the Ignitor this yellow lead was connected to the starter signal and then to the + on the coil. There was no lead on the power ' while starting terminal', this is what I don't understand and I fitted that red/white lead from the ignition switch. Is this anything to do with removing the anti- theft switch?
I think I will just have to wait until next month when the pro comes, I've still got the new Accuspark electronic distributor, hopefully he can sort that.

John

[sprintsoft]

Hi John,

thanks for confirming the coil voltage, there can be a ballast resistor fitted on the positive terminal, do you have that?

What wiring diagram are you following to help you?

I think this yellow wire is doing nothing useful, it being wrongly connected as Craven pointed out earlier, and we still don’t know if it has any ballast resistance built in, can you confirm?

It’s such a pity we cannot get some pics from you, it could be sorted out in no time. the key images would be

1. the ignition switch connections
2. the top of the coil
3. the solenoid.

Iain

[Craven]

As sprintsoft has pointed out it is in essence a very simple circuit arrangement but under distance diagnosis!!
Possible explanation of no connection to the ‘Power While Starting’ is the ‘Start Signal’ that will have full +12 volts on it in the Ignition key crank position is looped to the + on the coil to give full voltage while starting, but will disappear when the key is released. Coil running voltage will then be via the Resistor arrangement which has not yet been established.
Clearly wires have been changed around as the ‘Start Signal’ from the crank position on the ignition key should be the Red/White wire.

[checkrail]

Hi everybody, I have had it running with the yellow resister wire connected to the starter signal on the solenoid to the + on the coil, that's the only extra one I had on the solenoid.
It fired instantly and idled but of course wouldn't rev properly, the voltage across the coil terminals was approx. 4.7v. I only ran it for a minute as the coil was getting warm.
When I had the Ignitor, apart from the red lead from that and the yellow one both connected to the + on the coil, they were the only two obvious ones ' solenoid to coil'.
I looked again at the ignition switch, all the wires and connections look 'as new'
The wiring diagrams I'm trying to follow are the ones in the Workshop Manual, not terrible helpful as there isn't one for the S130 with the three fuse boxes.

John

[Craven]

Sorry but your explanation makes no electrical sense at all, there is no electrical power on the starter signal other than in the crank phase or your starter motor will run continuously, this cannot be the power feed for the coil.
Is your rev counter working?

[sprintsoft]

Hi John,

I think you are going in circles here...

how about you get a neighbour / friend / son / daughter / grandchild etc... to take the pics we need and upload them?

Without a proper look at the 3 items requested above I don't have enough information to offer you any further help.

Iain

[checkrail]

Firstly yes my rev counter is working.
Iain , I will mention that I am 76 years old living on my own, and don't have a local friend, son,daughter, grandchild etc.
Yes I am going round in circles but with all due respects I have explained so many times the coil/ solenoid set up and what the running problem is. It isn't easy working on your own getting meter readings etc.
I admit that I am much happier on the mechanics than the electrics

Thanks for all your past suggestions John

[Craven]

Do you have a Ballast Resistor like this?
On the circuit diagram I found on web, the coil supply is via a fuse located in the middle fuse box have you checked this?

[Craven]

Perhaps a description of how the solenoid works may help you,
Starter Solenoid is a voltage operated power switch, when the actuating voltage is applied to the terminal ‘Starter Signal’ a high current path is made between ‘ Battery Feed’ and Starter. A solenoid made for a ballast system has an extra terminal ‘ Power While Starting’ that provides via an internal connection from the battery feed terminal the maximum available voltage ( to the coil.)
When the ignition key is released from the crank position the ‘Starter Signal’ goes, the path between the ‘ Battery Feed’ and Starter is open circuit and also the ‘ Power While Starting’ voltage goes.

[alanr]

Just so there isn't more confusion your ballast resistor may look like this and fitted on the +terminal of the coil, which was original Ford style fitment, and although does the same job it does not look like the type Craven posted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ballast-Resist ... 100623.m-1

Alan.

[checkrail]

There is no external resister anywhere, I had one of those ceramic ones on the Triumph I owned.

I have been on the Web but can't see the wiring diagram with reference to the coil supply.

There must be a resister wire somewhere, as I understand Lotus fitted basically a Ford loom and mine is a 1971 car, were Ford using those as early as that?

Thanks for the explanation of the solenoid. I am going to try and contact the previous owner to see if he ever ran on points before the Ignitor.

John

[Chrispy]

Was it running properly previously?

Are you 100% sure your cam timing is correct? On another engine I've had issues with the locating dowel on the cam sprocket shearing and rotating in relation to the cam. This has caused similar issue where it idle fine, but no power.

[Craven]

Locate Tachometer.
Find white wire to Antitheft switch.
Find white wire (W) to Oil pressure gauge.
Follow white wire down to junction.
Then white wire across to centre fuse box.
Feed to fuse box is by Brown/Blue (NU) wire from ignition switch.

Right click on diagram, choose,Open link in new Tab