No spark with new electronic ignition. What am I missing?

PostPost by: Johnfm » Sun Nov 10, 2013 1:17 pm

So, fitted accuspark black box and accuspark electronic ignition in my existing distributor and a new coil.

No spark.

Little red ignition light comes on in the tacho.

I have 12v at the low tension side of the coil.

Distributor is connected as per instructions.

The tach is 'bouncing' so there must be some kind of signal coming from the electronic points.

At the end of my skillset and tether simultaneously!
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:38 pm

Missing rotor arm?

Distributor 180 degrees out of place?
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Nov 10, 2013 9:06 pm

Just a copy...

AccuSpark Installation Troubleshooting

If your AccuSpark Ignition appears not to work before returning , there are a number of checks you can make:

Check that the rotor and trigger ring have been fitted, It is often the case that 1 or both is forgotten.

The largest reason for failure is incorrectly fitted or faulty coils, especially in cars that have had there polarity changed from Positive to Negative earth.

When points are fitted a coil will work both ways round. It is often overlooked to reverse the coil when converting to Negative Earth. To look at the + and - markings on the coil is not sufficiant.

With all wires removed and ignition on ,the original ignition wires that will be connected to live should be tested with a test bulb or voltmeter and should show current, the wire to the - negative side should show no current. If this is the case connect wires.

If you have a Volt meter check Ohms reading across the two spade terminals with all wires disconnected. Standard ignition should show 3 Ohms and a Ballast ignition 1.5 ohms. The AccuSpark will need a reading of not less than 1.4 Ohms to function. Note Points ignition will still function with failing coil with a low reading.

With all wires connected remove number one HT lead, hold end of lead 3mm from engine block and crank engine. If sparking occurs then fault lies with ignition timing or firing order.

If no spark remove centre HT lead carry out same procedure. If HT lead sparks fault lies with rotor or cap.

If no spark ensure red wire from Accuspark is not connected to a reduced voltage wire source. Connect temporarily to a direct 12 volt source from fuse box or battery.

Check if fitted, that the earth on the distributor base plate is in good condition. Check Ohms resistance from Module fixing screw to car body. If a poor earth is suspected then to ensure the AccuSpark Module is receiving a proper earth run a wire from module fixing screw out of distributor with other wires to a good earth.

If you are still unable to get your AccuSpark to function please return for testing or full refund . Please fill out returns form and send to :

AccuSpark
33 Park Street
St Albans
Al2 2PE
UK
+ 44 (0) 1727 768752

John :wink:
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PostPost by: Johnfm » Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:15 am

Rotor arm in. Distributor in correctly.

12v going to black box.

Earthed correctly.

Wiring seems to be to correct places - but will check quality of connectors.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:21 am

Put a plug lead/plug direct into the coil earthed to the engine,this will split the system and tell you if you're getting a basic spark before it is "distributed"..

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PostPost by: Johnfm » Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:06 pm

I'll give that a go - once I have recharged the battery....
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PostPost by: Jaybee » Tue Nov 26, 2013 5:42 pm

I tried all sorts with accuspark turned out it was a duff unit. Just a thought. John.
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PostPost by: Johnfm » Wed Nov 27, 2013 3:29 pm

I should have updated.

It was two things:

1. a bad wiring connection; and
2. static timing not advanced enough.

In the end I used the timing light and upon cranking could see that the static timing was nowhere near correct.

Rotated the distributor and it fired.

Now runningsurprisingly sweet - considering I haven't got the kit to correctly jet the carbs etc.

Idle is OK - though a bit lumpy. Plugs suggest that it is running a touch lean once in the progression and pump circuit (ie idle isn't lean).
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PostPost by: RichC » Sun Dec 11, 2016 1:13 pm

Motor's been firing up fine for days ...Having taken the motor out for its first proper spin we've not got back to the barn where the multimeter is :( it's a mike away with all the instruction manuals etc .... motor is now blocking drive at home as there is suddenly no spark on trying to restart .
i checked the antitheft switch etc.
powerspark unit brand new for +ve earth
coil +ve to earth .
Coil is now cold to touch and with ignition on if i remove the spade connector to +ve and tap it on its coil terminal there is no light spark at all. does this mean the coil has suddenly died?
Or am i right in thinking the cream black wire from -ve terminal coil is fed from the distributor so maybe the accuspark elctronic ignition has given up the ghost?
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PostPost by: bob_rich » Sun Dec 11, 2016 3:26 pm

Hi Rich

Glad 2 C car is nearly up and running but sad ignition playing up! Not sure exactly how the Acuspark works but many ignition units of the no contact breaker type do not necessarily power the coil up until the engine is cranked. --but again not sure if the Accuspark is of this type. no info ( that I could find) on the web site regarding how they work.

I know you pass (close-ish) by my house to / from work so if it helps I can lend you a nominal 3 ohm coil and a set of 4 neon spark indicators, They clip in series with the plug leads, if that helps.

best of luck

Bob
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PostPost by: Craven » Sun Dec 11, 2016 6:17 pm

Hi,
Don?t think the Accuspark unit behaves as if the coil is being switched in the same way as by points.
With points ( contact breakers ) current flows through the coil for the whole of the dwell time, which changes with engine speed, at low speed there is more than enough time for the magnetic flux in the coil to reach a maximum but current still flows heating the coil up. Accuspark uses a fixed effective dwell time of 3 mS, at any engine speed, so the usual heating will not happen.
Static timing is almost impossible with Accuspark type unit as the trigger from the rotating magnet in the distributor starts the 3 mS dwell period ( coil charging if you like ) and THEN switches the coil.
FWIW
Ron.
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PostPost by: RichC » Sun Dec 11, 2016 6:46 pm

ok so fact that coil is now cool is a red herring :)
just found this on powerspark website
"Using a coil with too little primary resistance can cause the ignition module to overheat and fail, thus voiding the warranty."
"If possible check the coil resistance prior to fitting this unit to ensure that your coil has a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms."

OK i'll do this .. sounds like mine should be 3ohms.....
I'll have to check the coil.
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PostPost by: Craven » Sun Dec 11, 2016 7:12 pm

powerspark unit brand new for +ve earth
coil +ve to earth
Think this must be a typo ?
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PostPost by: RichC » Sun Dec 11, 2016 7:22 pm

no
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PostPost by: bob_rich » Sun Dec 11, 2016 8:02 pm

Hi Again

Most of the info (all? that I could find) on the Accuspark web site refers to -ve earth systems. If Rich has a +ve earth unit it may connect the coil +ve to the earth. Coil with points don't mind (in as much as they will produce a spark) whichever way the current passes through there primary but the electronics will definitely mind. Perhaps Rich could post the circuit or connection diagram he has

I have made up ignition units for people with +ve earth cars and because the electronics is polarity sensitive it may be the whole system is turned "upside down" so to speak and the coil +ve is connected to earth.

Hope this helps

Bob
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