Blowing away the cobwebs

[gav]

Hi all

Being a fair weather driver (in the Elan anyway) I took the opportunity to go for a spin earlier today. lovely day and for once - no snow or rain.

I left the car last year with a horrible misfire and replaced the plugs with a new set of NGK B8 ECS and new 8.5mm magnecor leads (that only just fitted). The engine is a mildy tuned twin cam producing around 155 bhp and 130 ft lb on carbs.

I expected all sorts of trouble but warmed the engine up first with the preheater at it started first turn. It purred at tickover and was really responsive all the way through the drive.

I have a huge radiator and an electric water pump that keeps the temperature at around 80 degs and It took me a while to twig that the oil won't get any hotter than 80 degs because that is what the cooling system is set at. I was watching the oil temp gauge like a hawk waiting for it to get to 100 and only made the connection when I got home - doh.

I had forgotten how responsive the car is - and how much it likes to stretch its legs at 6 - 7K. Sounds great.
To all of the builders out there (me included with the racer) keep going - it really is worth it - I remember now....

Happy driving
Gavin

[AussieJohn]

Hi Gav, what waterpump are you using? cheers, John.

[gav]

Hi John
I am running an early Davies Craig water pump connected to their early controller. I had to fit a diode to change the operating range and it now runs around 80 apart from really hot days when it can get up to 90. I may have a little cavitation at full power but in truth it hasn't been a problem so far.
The pump sits at the bottom of a Caterham racing rad.
When I finish a journey, I leave the power on and the pump keeps running to cool the engine evenly.
Hope this helps.
All the best
Gavin

[RichardHawkins]

Gavin,
I intend to rebuild my engine with a Davies Craig water pump.

Do you remember:- Which size of pump?
If you left the mechanical pump in the block as a flow distributor?


Has it been reliable, would you recommend this installation, and which engine pre heater did you use?

Regards,
Richard Hawkins

[gav]

Hi Richard
The water pump is the EWP (it doesn't mention a flow rate). To fit it, I removed the thermostat and changed the fan belt to run the alternator only. I fitted the pre heater because I had removed the thermostat and was worried about engine wear.
The pre heater is a Kenlowe and I set it up as a removable item so once the engine is warm I don't end up lugging it around. However, it isn't a brilliant set up like that and I am now considering permanent installation so that I just plug in the electrics only.
I found that the water pump ran the engine a little hot and on contacting Davies Craig they suggested a diode (I think - my electronics knowledge is shocking) which has had the effect of running the engine at around 80. There is a reasonable amount of temp adjustment on the controller but I found that I was at the extreme setting and wanted to change the operating band.
For safety, I carry the original fan belt. I can undo the plug to the pump and fit the fan belt to use the engine's water pump if I need to although haven't had to yet.
My installation leaves the rad at the very front of the car. I dont know how much space there is between the bottom hose of the rad and the inlet to the engine - you will need to check this first. The pump is about 5" diameter with one hose exiting at the end of the pump and the other from the centre. There is a good range of adjustability and silicone hoses seem to absorb minor intolerances.
One thing to watch is the heater - mine doesn't work well which may be because I removed the thermostat. I have a small pump to fit to run it but do feel that I am chasing issues. I will fit it and use it to make sure that it isn't airlocked. If it helps I will keep it but at this rate, I will need a bigger alternator.
Hope this helps.
Gavin

[kstrutt11]

In my experince of running dyno engines they have always been run with a jammed open thermostat or equivalent restriction because the cooling systems often need this restriction to get even flow through the engine, I would sugest this would be the best approach for the EWP as well. (heater should work better as well).

Kevin

[gav]

Kevin
Thanks fo the advice. I made a restrictor using the ring of the thermostat housing but it is pretty ineffective.
I'll have a play with a complete thermostat and see what I can come up with.
All the best
Gavin