Lotus Elan

Shakin' all over

PostPost by: storrar54 » Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:14 pm

I had a similar problem with my 130/5 shortly after I got it. After taking the diff out (what an intro to servicing a lotus!) I discovered that the bolts at the front UJ were loose! Someone had fitted bolts without any shanks and they had worked loose.Of course the engine has to come out to get at these bolts all good fun. So do check those front bolts.
Richard
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sat Sep 24, 2005 12:23 pm

Like worzel, I, too, switched to Panasports (using the same 3 yr old tires at the time) and found an instant transformation. Silky smooth. The original steel wheels are flimsy and the KO pin holes get beat out over time. And I've been fighting this high speed imbalance for years.

Greg Z
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PostPost by: stuartgb100 » Sat Oct 08, 2005 1:47 pm

The tyres/wheels issue I will address later. Have decided to investigate that 'split' on the outside of the n/s cill.
Last night I removed passenger seat and carpets. Poor light stopped play!
This morning, much more was revealed ..... several of the lattice braces have completely rotted connections, some look as though they will be the same soon.
Have cut a slot in the fibreglass above the bottom stiffening rod, immediately adjacent to to 'split' in the cill. In this area, there is surface rust, which I have carefully removed. The rod seems to have plenty of "meat" left in it.

Obviously I've got to repair the lattice links, but what do you think of this idea for the bottom rod:

Cut a slot all the way along, above the rod. Remove all accessible surface rust. Vacuum out the cavity. Apply a rust killer/eater (am not up to date with such products ....is there such an animal?). Follow product's further instructions or pack in a load of bitumen.

Any suggestions, please?
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PostPost by: tonycharente » Sat Oct 08, 2005 8:23 pm

Suggestion for narrowing down source of the vibration: Place rear of car VERY firmly on stands, BIG chocks in front of front wheels, rear wheels off the ground but with car's weight on the rear suspension (to keep the outer drive shafts horizontal) - spread the supports across the wishbones so as not to bend them. Make sure your wife/kids/dog are not standing in front of the Elan! Now run the car in top gear up to the vibration speed. If no vibration, then source is probably the front wheels, or perhaps one or more of the tyres have flats on them. If vibration then source is probably either the rear wheels or the propshaft. Now repeat just the same but with the rear wheels removed. If no vibration then source was probably the rear wheels, but if still vibration then source probably the propshaft (or its bolts loose), or perhaps a bent drive-shaft. Hope this helps, Tony.
1969 Elan FHC S4 SE
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PostPost by: bill308 » Sun Oct 09, 2005 12:32 am

sgbooth,

I believe your proposal to rectify the damage to the lower truss rod has merit. If you are able to expose all of the damaged area and come to the conclusion that the lower rod is mostly intact and salvageable, it is possible to treat the local affected area with a rust converter. This material is available under a variety of names. Chemically, it converts the rust, iron oxide, into a stable form and some claim to actually seal it. I have had reasonably good luck with this type of treatment. After treatment, I believe it is important to take additional steps to seal the area and prevent future exposure to moisture and air.

Bill
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PostPost by: stuartgb100 » Sun Oct 09, 2005 12:57 pm

Bill,

Many thanks. Think I'll cut that slot and then review the situation.
Sorry I posted that last into the wrong thread ..... must have been
a bad day!

Regards,
Stuart.
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