Gear Box removal and fill plug fix
7 posts
• Page 1 of 1
With my engine out and awaiting the crank machining and heat treatment to be completed it was time to pull the gear box out to remove the stuck fill plug and to check the drive shafts U/Js which have not been looked at since 1980!.
With the MaxJax its not a hard task.
I support the front of the gearbox with a piece of wood and a couple of bolts in the bell housing once the engine is out.
Then I lower the car until its picked up on a wheeled dolly
Then pull the GB forward and raise the car so it can be wheeled out.
Chewed up round fill plug. No way I could get it out in situ
Welded nut on the chewed up plug end
sheared nut off the plug. shear in plug metal so my weld is good
welded new nut again on the remaining stub of the plug, hope it works this time otherwise its down to drilling out the plug
came out this time. A big breaker bar helps plus a few cycles of heat and freeze spray
once the GB was out I removed the drive shaft. The U/Js felt perfect with zero play and good free movement with no binding. So just a re-grease and back in. GB back in next and on to the engine build
cheers
Rohan
With the MaxJax its not a hard task.
I support the front of the gearbox with a piece of wood and a couple of bolts in the bell housing once the engine is out.
Then I lower the car until its picked up on a wheeled dolly
Then pull the GB forward and raise the car so it can be wheeled out.
Chewed up round fill plug. No way I could get it out in situ
Welded nut on the chewed up plug end
sheared nut off the plug. shear in plug metal so my weld is good
welded new nut again on the remaining stub of the plug, hope it works this time otherwise its down to drilling out the plug
came out this time. A big breaker bar helps plus a few cycles of heat and freeze spray
once the GB was out I removed the drive shaft. The U/Js felt perfect with zero play and good free movement with no binding. So just a re-grease and back in. GB back in next and on to the engine build
cheers
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8417
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
I removed the Prop Shaft on my Elan Sprint a few weeks ago because i had never done this job since i bought the Sprint in 1999. With the "Shutdown" i wanted something to tinker on .
I tried to feel for play in UJ's off the car and couldn't feel any. But when i was driving the Sprint there seemed to be a very little vibration .
Anyway i had some new UJ's in stock so took the UJ's apart. Surprise front UJ journals worn with lines across the bearing surface.
I fitted the new UJ's and then test drove my Sprint and no more vibration.
Moral of the story even if you can't feel play in UJ's when Engine and Gearbox is out change them to be sure.
Alan
I tried to feel for play in UJ's off the car and couldn't feel any. But when i was driving the Sprint there seemed to be a very little vibration .
Anyway i had some new UJ's in stock so took the UJ's apart. Surprise front UJ journals worn with lines across the bearing surface.
I fitted the new UJ's and then test drove my Sprint and no more vibration.
Moral of the story even if you can't feel play in UJ's when Engine and Gearbox is out change them to be sure.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3757
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008
- Location: BRITTANY FRANCE
Hello Rohan
Had the same problem.
Replaced with aluminium plugs. Additionally I installed a magnet inside the plug.
One source of supply:
https://www.onlyrussell.de/?nummer=662070&art=no&08info=08all&hersteller=RUS
Urs
Had the same problem.
Replaced with aluminium plugs. Additionally I installed a magnet inside the plug.
One source of supply:
https://www.onlyrussell.de/?nummer=662070&art=no&08info=08all&hersteller=RUS
Urs
-
ElanDNA - Second Gear
- Posts: 119
- Joined: 31 Jan 2017
- Location: Switzerland
Easier yet, go with a brass plug, they never seize.
- joe7
- Second Gear
- Posts: 165
- Joined: 09 Oct 2013
- Location: USA
A stuck oil fill plug is serious business. The previous owner of my car somehow managed to brake a chunk out of the side of the transmission case trying to unscrew the plug. The case had been slyly epoxied together, but to get access a ragged hole was cut in the frame and the frame was badly cracked.
I bought the car to restore it, but I'm not sure the restoration would have been more than just cosmetic if not for the frame damage. I remember thinking, "Wow, this is great! I have to do it!"
Remembering all the work though, I use Anti-Seize on the plug, always, but brass sounds even better.
I bought the car to restore it, but I'm not sure the restoration would have been more than just cosmetic if not for the frame damage. I remember thinking, "Wow, this is great! I have to do it!"
Remembering all the work though, I use Anti-Seize on the plug, always, but brass sounds even better.
- webbslinger
- Second Gear
- Posts: 207
- Joined: 23 Jun 2012
- Location: Friday Harbor, WA USA
ElanDNA wrote:Hello Rohan
Had the same problem.
Replaced with aluminium plugs. Additionally I installed a magnet inside the plug.
Urs
Hi Urs
Yes I have put magnets in the drain plugs already,,, amazing how much metal they pick up
cheers
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8417
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
joe7 wrote:Easier yet, go with a brass plug, they never seize.
+1, but make sure you don't go near it with a 12 point spanner/socket. 6 point only. Ask me how I recently learned this lesson with the diff.....
Nick
-
elanner - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 546
- Joined: 14 Sep 2010
- Location: Boston, MA, USA
7 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests