Lotus Elan

Otter switch

PostPost by: YellowS4DHC » Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:11 am

My otter switch popped out today, and after I cleaned up the green pool of goo off the garage floor I was wondering how to reinstall it and ensure I don't have this happen again.

I scanned the archives and didn't find too much (little surprised at that). Can anyone point me to the right thread or regurgitate their preferred method of securing this damn thing?

I'd like to have a mechanical constraint and not rely solely on a silicone or other sealant but I can't think of anything more elegant than wrapping with a piece of copper wire.

thanks
Rick

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PostPost by: oldelanman » Wed Nov 21, 2012 7:51 am

Hi Rick,
Did your search bring up this solution...........

"On the advice of this board, I set out in persuit of a replacement
rubber grommet for my blowing otter switch. After getting steered in
the right direction from a local radiator shop... I found it... at the
local Volvo dealer. Volvo part # 1378869, description: RUBB S201-I1.
This is a rubber radiator grommet that has a deeper throat (no jokes
please) than the standard Lotus grommet, thus providing more rubber
surface area to grip the otter switch itself. Infact, after installing
the new grommet, it requires an awful lot of force just to get the
switch pushed into it. Looks totally stock. I can drive again!"

From this thread......elan-archive-f16/how-tamed-the-otter-t12224.html

This was a few years ago so the Volvo part may no longer be available but might be worth a try.

Using grease or vasaline to get the switch into the grommet may make it more likely for the switch to pop out - it might be better to use a silicone sealant which will act as a lubricant but also help to hold the switch in when it dries.
Roger
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PostPost by: cliveyboy » Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:23 am

Hi Rick
I think Roger has covered the best way to keep things looking original.
On my Sprint when I first got it the otter was secured with a bit of wire.
I was always amazed that people could get the thing to stay in with out restraining it.
The only way I can think to restrain it discreetly is with a spring clip. Either an internal circlip or there is a similar type made of wire that is designed to be installed with your fingers. Both of these methods would requires the otter switch to go into the pipe far enough so a clip can fit behind it.

The other non original option is replace the pipe with a boss that a modern temperature switch can screw into.
Clive
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PostPost by: steve.thomas » Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:54 am

I used the wire cage form a champagne cork which fits around the otter switch quite well. Not pretty, but it won't come out again!!
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PostPost by: YellowS4DHC » Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:23 pm

thanks Roger, I'll give it a try. I might buy two and pre-empt it from happening to the other car

Rick


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PostPost by: tcsoar » Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:25 pm

I used two black cable ties going around the header tank and crossing each other, works well, I will try and post a picture later. I also used a bit if silicon sealant to aid fitting in the hope that it would also aid sealing.

Chris.
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PostPost by: billwill » Wed Nov 21, 2012 2:16 pm

I'm unfamiliar with this device so I'm fishing for an answer. What is the Otter for and where does it fit?

A photo would be nice.
Bill Williams

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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 2:22 pm

Brian
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PostPost by: billwill » Wed Nov 21, 2012 2:40 pm

types26/36 wrote:http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/lsb_thermal_switch_fan.shtml


I wonder why Lotus didn't recommend a reliable fix in that service bulletin, i.e after making the new hole in the rad header, solder a threaded bush onto the header, so that a sensor switch could be screwed in and out?

~~~

Mine began with a mechanical blade on the water pump, so I never had one of those Otter switches. When I converted to a Kenlowe, I just put its sensor switch in the rubber header pipe at the rad end, with some soft rubber around the capillary & rad inlet to prevent it leaking.

Now I have the Ford thermostat housing with filler cap and a thermal switch for the electric fan screwed into the side of that housing.
FanSwitch.jpg and
Ford Thermostat Housing Fan Switch.
Bill Williams

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PostPost by: kstrutt11 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:45 pm

I made a small metal bracket which bolts to the rad support bracket and hold it in.

Kevin
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PostPost by: alan71 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 9:35 am

This is what mine has, it's made of springy metal and clips under the top tank. I have always assumed it was original.

Alan.
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otter clip.jpg and
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PostPost by: terryp » Thu Nov 22, 2012 9:42 am

On my old +2 it was like this ......
P6130003.JPG and


Not sure whether it would have actually held it in ..... but it never came out

Terry
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PostPost by: nigelrbfurness » Thu Nov 22, 2012 11:33 am

I've got two spare radiators with the Otter switch at opposite end and sides of the top tank. One is on the left hand side pointing forwards, the other on the right pointing into the engine bay. Both are wired as in the +2 picture, as was the one in my 1970 SE before I replaced it with a switch and fitting from a Mini. I had assumed that they were wired at the factory, but perhaps that isn't the case? Anyone know why they changed position and which is best?

Nigel
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PostPost by: tcsoar » Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:56 pm

Hi,

Picture of my method of keeping the switch in place.

I did notice that the rubber grommet has written on it 'Use only Once'

Chris.
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2012_11220008.JPG and
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PostPost by: tonyabacus » Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:38 pm

The Volvo rubber suggested was fitted to a range of Volvo's including the 240/740 series so should be easy enough to get in the UK.
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