Plus 2 bonnet attachment

PostPost by: Baggy2 » Wed Dec 28, 2022 2:11 am

Wow - Who would have thought a simple question and response would generate so much debate and passion requiring CAPITAL LETTERS !
FWIW I am the second owner of my +2 and when I bought the car it wasnt that old. As far as I know the previous owner hadnt altered anything in fact it was somewhat neglected. Forgive me for thinking that the perfectly adequate means of attatching my bonnet was not ORIGINAL. I suppose the addition of nuts and washers transgresses the 'just add lightness' principal.
Happy New Year
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Dec 28, 2022 5:46 am

Looking at the original post the owner has a 1967 +2 and it seems to me that he would like to fix as original.
There is a lot of interrest with early +2 Elans and nice to keep original i think.
But the most important is to drive them for me.
Alan
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PostPost by: alaric » Wed Dec 28, 2022 2:29 pm

Both my +2s just had one bolt through from under the wing on each side, which were screwed through the threaded bobbins in the body and the bonnet. It takes me a few minutes to remove the bonnet, and when refitting I just screw the two bolts in until they meet the bonnet bobbin with equal thread on each side. While putting the bolts in I position the bonnet on rags on top of the inner wings, and hold it open with the bonnet stay - I did hold the bonnet open with bungees from the ceiling first time around, to make sure I didn't drop it - probably safer to do that.

Sean.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Dec 28, 2022 3:43 pm

The set screws should as original be fitted from inside bonnet towards wings. Then the set screws heads are tightened against the steel frame of bonnet.
If fitted from under the wings they will tighten against grp/ bobbin surface which is not flat. All 3 +2s i've had have been like i said.
But if you're happy why not it's your choice.
Alan
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PostPost by: alaric » Wed Dec 28, 2022 4:29 pm

Hi again. The bolts were screwed from under the wing when I took the bonnet off but maybe that wasn't correct. I should have checked the instruction manual :). I have just checked, and the wording in section B7 "To replace" does say that the bolts should be fitted to the bonnet first. Ok. I'll swap mine round next time I fit it. Thanks.

Regards.

Sean.
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:58 pm

The best solution on my car was to drill the body bobbins to 5/16"+ and tap the bonnet bobbins to 5/16" NC. I then ran a 5/16" bolt through from the inner fender and spaced with nylon washers. I'm not concerned about originality. My car is a bitsa car with Spyder chassis, '67 interior, '70 body and various mechanical bits :)
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Jan 01, 2023 10:58 pm

If all 4 Bobbin holes are threaded you don't need Spacers.
Alan
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PostPost by: Bud English » Sun Jan 01, 2023 11:41 pm

alan.barker wrote:If all 4 Bobbin holes are threaded you don't need Spacers.
Alan
Exactly. There a few original details that work very nicely as designed when properly maintained. The less than a quarter of a turn of the threads when opening the bonnet results in a very minor shifting left to right. Probably one of the lightest bonnet hinge designs ever. :D
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