Davies Craig Electric Water Pump Setup

PostPost by: Rokkbert » Fri Aug 12, 2022 7:09 pm

alan.barker wrote:Sorry but imho i don't see the need for an electric pump. It can go wrong an added risk. What do you do for the Fanbelt and if the old water pump pulley is still turning then the Lipseal and Bearing can still leak.
If you are concerned then fit Capsule type Water Pump.
I imagine that's not what you want to hear and after all it's a personal choice.
Good luck with you project.
Alan


It’s not for everyone, but for me it works well. Because the old pump is no longer needed, I removed the pulley entirely and ran a belt just to the alternator (I switched to a modern alternator at the same time).

For sure, there’s more than one way to approach the water pump issue, but it’s undeniable that the electric pump and digital controller give the greatest degree of control over the cooling system.
- Robert

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Is it still a barn find if it’s your barn?

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Aug 12, 2022 8:11 pm

I'm happy for you and i hope you have no problems.
But the Twink has existed with mechanical water pump for 60 years so not so bad.
Personal choice for me for 48 years.
Still running Generator and rotoflexes also.
Maybe i'm blocked in a time warp or something like that.
Anyway i hope you enjoy driving your Elan which is the most important.
Best regards
Alan
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PostPost by: JohnMorin » Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:01 pm

I have in the past considered fitting a Davies Craig pump but decided it wasn't worth the expense particularly when my existing pump is working fine. I have never had a twin cam pump fail so I won't be fitting a replacement with removable module, again for cost reasons. Anywagy I don't have to remove the cylinder head on my engine to change the pump.

John
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PostPost by: mbell » Sat Aug 13, 2022 7:02 pm

I have wondered about a new front cover designed to work with an electric water pump. Likely a lot simpler to make and probably machinable in a CNC mill. Might even be possible to improve it slightly to make it easier to seal and reinforce the alternator bracket....
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Aug 13, 2022 7:41 pm

mbell wrote:I have wondered about a new front cover designed to work with an electric water pump. Likely a lot simpler to make and probably machinable in a CNC mill. Might even be possible to improve it slightly to make it easier to seal and reinforce the alternator bracket....

Now you're talking, i like that idea.
But who's going to bite the bullet.
Alan
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PostPost by: JohnMorin » Sat Aug 13, 2022 8:08 pm

There's no need to purchase or develop expensive replacements for the original water pump. I have owned my S4 for over 40 years and have never had a pump fail. When I did have to remove the cylinder head I removed the front cover as well, turned the camshaft drive chain slip plate through 180 degrees and screwed it in from the outside. If I do need to replace the pump, or more correctly the bearing, I only have to remove the cam cover not the whole cylinder head. I know that some of you will say that you can't get the front cover to seal properly but with modern gasket sealants it's really not a problem. The other thing I've never had is a leaky engine, the oil stays inside.

John
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PostPost by: TBG » Sat Aug 13, 2022 9:09 pm

Spot on John!! At last some sense.....................D
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PostPost by: alaric » Sun Aug 14, 2022 11:29 am

Thanks Robert. I think what you've done is brilliant, and appreciate your post. Really interesting.

Sean.
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PostPost by: mbell » Sun Aug 14, 2022 4:54 pm

alan.barker wrote:But who's going to bite the bullet.


I know someone with the skill and machinery to do it. They have a lot of other projects on going thou, so unlikely to happen with out some motivation.

JohnMorin wrote:There's no need to purchase or develop expensive replacements for the original water pump.


Absolutely correct. There is also no need to own and drive and elan rather than a modern car, but it's an enjoyable thing to do. So people do it.

Same can be said here, no need to do it but some people might like to do it and enjoy doing it. If that's not you that's perfectly fine, as you say the standard setup works fine for you.

alaric wrote:I think what you've done is brilliant, and appreciate your post.


Agree, thanks.
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PostPost by: JohnMorin » Sun Aug 14, 2022 5:25 pm

Hi

I don't mean to offend anyone, yes if it works for you go ahead. Personally I have never had problems with either the water pump or the drive shaft doughnuts, two things which are a constant source of debate here and on other forums. The re-engineered replacements for both of these are in my opinion very expensive. I have however had problems with the mechanical fuel pump on more than one occasion which is why I fitted an electric pump which was similar in price to the mechanical one.

I suppose what I'm saying is if it ain't broke don't fix it but it's up to you.

John
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Thu Nov 02, 2023 1:09 pm

I did not see how you plumbed the heater hose to the intake. You mention a ‘T’ but I do not see anything.

I recall having a twincam pump fail, likely due to belt too tight for the bearing, to keep alternator belt from slipping. But that was many decades ago and probably my fault. It was a Chrysler alternator (before the now avaliable ones) and maybe the belt I used was not great?
I like the idea- I would likely only do it if pump failed, then perhaps remove the old pump and make a plug so it could not leak. I have had very good luck with electric water pumps on trials motorcycles.
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Thu Nov 09, 2023 6:54 pm

I looked closer and saw the ‘T’ on the intake hose under the outlet hose.

How did you mount the pump itself?
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:39 am

I never have liked the stock water pump setup very much. (I know, it works but…).

Since I like to try things out and make stuff- I am fitting same type system to mine.
Here is the controller/display. On the right is wideband O2 sensor to assist in carb tuning.
I designed and 3D printed the bezel/mount. There was no radio (and I don’t want one) so this works out pretty well I think. I had some filament with wood in it, but I liked they way this filament looks better.

I can always go back, but I think this will work pretty well. (But of course, I have made mistakes before).

Mark

(Pump is not hooked up yet, so an error is shown, and the red LED is for showing an error also).
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Sat Mar 02, 2024 1:55 am

I have the pump mounted. I found a place that makes a very nice ‘T’ for the heater hose. Replaced heater hoses also (the ones behind dash are extra fun).
Still have wiring to clean up- but all works.

Finishing carbs, then can fire it up.

Edit:
no distributor system- simple ‘L’ bracket to mount pump. Standard hose to water pump housing, two 90º hoses with the ‘T’ for Rad hose. Waiting on sparking plug wires too.
https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/bes ... iator-hose
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PostPost by: l10tus » Mon Mar 04, 2024 7:12 pm

On this subject, does anyone know if the DC pumps can be rebuilt?

The one I'm using requires a new bearing(s) for sure, seem to remember speaking with DC in Aus. some time ago - they said it was "sealed for life"

Anyone know any different????
Cheers,
Phil.
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