Lotus Elan

Starting to tackle +2 resto....

PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Sun Feb 20, 2022 11:41 pm

Apologies if this is the wrong place and also because I have asked before (and forgot!) but where do I jack and support the rear end?

I've moved the Elan forward a couple of feet to give me clearance at back for cill replacament, jacked up the front again on xmemeber but can't see where to jack and support at rear.

I would put a beam across but the xhaust is lower and would get in the way, wary of jacking on the suspension and also the jacking points as think they're shot. Just want all 4 wheels off the ground so I can start to tackle the cill. Do I support under the chassis or the body?

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: wotsisname » Sun Feb 20, 2022 11:46 pm

I was also quite tight for garage space when rebuilding my +2. I bought something like this...

https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/mo ... els-cm05c/

with suitable bits of wood and some straps I could move the car about, allowed me to work on one side then the other. It worked very well with a complete car (less doors) also.
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PostPost by: Donels » Mon Feb 21, 2022 8:22 am

danbuoy1 wrote:Interesting, is that the bottom edge of the cill flange or the side? As a matter of interest (if you fitted them) were the replacent cills straight?

Cheers

Paul


Yes the cills are straight. SJS stainless, see pic.
723FA6E4-D1C9-4851-B2EB-52CEC0E09108.jpeg and


Ref jacking up the rear. DO NOT jack below the axle. This is the weakest part of the chassis/subframe and it can distort it. Place a beam further forwards around the rear seat area where the body can provide support.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Mon Feb 21, 2022 11:08 am

Thanks for info Donels, dont want to learn the hard way! Wasn't sure whether the body/fixings were strong enough to lift the back end of the chassis as well. I'm guessing I need a timber support like this

-----__-----

to support lift and clear the exhaust pipe? There were various wooden bits that the daughter found in the garage when I bought it but look more like they'd support on the end of the axles when wheels removed.

Re sills, again thanks, I've got to check it carefully when apart!

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon Feb 21, 2022 11:38 am

danbuoy1 wrote:Apologies if this is the wrong place and also because I have asked before (and forgot!) but where do I jack and support the rear end?

I would put a beam across but the xhaust is lower and would get in the way, wary of jacking on the suspension and also the jacking points as think they're shot. Just want all 4 wheels off the ground so I can start to tackle the cill. Do I support under the chassis or the body?

Paul


I made up a timber channel which supports the lower chassis flanges whilst bridging the exhaust pipe. It needs to be at least 6" long, and should be positioned under the rear wishbone pivots, and not the central "tray"
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Mon Feb 21, 2022 4:43 pm

Thats great help Foxie, many thanks, I can do that, guess when I get the wheel off it wil also reduce the weight (and I'll be able to see it much clearer).

I'm assuming this is a jacking point only tho, is there a place I could put axle stands to support it all ? As I'm replacing the cills, can't use the jacking point (or whats left of it!).

Sorry for silly questions, just don't want to break anything first time round.

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: jono » Mon Feb 21, 2022 5:17 pm

I used a cut scaffolding batten spaced off the central chassis with some timber packers, them some wooden folding wedges between the batten and floor to balance it all.

This meant the weight was not being carried by the floor and consequently nothing changed relationship when I removed the old sills (not that they were doing much anyway).

I did remove the engine, gearbox and much of the interior to reduce weight as much as possible - whilst the chassis does carry all the load when supported in this way reducing weight as much as possible just makes the whole exercise 'safer' IMO if you are rebuilding the whole car anyway.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Mon Feb 21, 2022 5:34 pm

Cheers Jono, that looks like a 2 post lift but supporting one side? Maybe I'm over thinking it and will be clearer when I've jacked it up first. Just can't leave it balanced on a center jack - partly for me and also the next step in cill replacement!

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: jono » Mon Feb 21, 2022 5:51 pm

..supporting both sides Paul, just the other side is not immediately clear from the photo
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 5:08 pm

jono wrote:..supporting both sides Paul, just the other side is not immediately clear from the photo


Ah did wonder tho have seen a one sided lift, bit like a fork lift.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 5:19 pm

Thanks for all the info chaps. I've jacked it back up on subframe and also under the rear chassis, I think the lip before the wishbones is bent up but no doubt can be straightened - its now also supported under body near rear of cill and can see it all much better now - thanks. Surprised how heavy it is at the back!

Just a few questions if you don't mind?

1) The door catches on the striker plate but if I jack up under the middle of cill it aligns better - is this the position to leave while replacing cill? Because.....

2) The door has play in the bottom hinge, is this normal and if not should I remove and replace bearing before touching the cills?

3) The door chrome frame doesn't look quite right in the body, increasing gap on the the top towards rear - jacking cill doesn't really make much difference. Is this normal or adjustable?

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: Donels » Fri Feb 25, 2022 7:09 pm

The chassis should be fairly stiff front to rear but more flexible in torsion, where the body gives it stiffness. So if you have jacked under the front cross member and on the rear of the chassis just in front of the wishbone mountings it should not sag. If the door bushes are worn then its not really going to be a good indicator.

Given the above I don't think its a problem to replace the cills (sills?). The gaps around the window frames will vary depending upon hinge wear so ignore it would be my advice.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 9:34 pm

Thanks for reply Donels, that does help. At the rear I've supported it transversely under main body tub (roughly at end of cill) and also left the jack under the chassis at suspension links, but the tub support is taking most of the weight. I'm just wary as don't know the history of the car (last mot some 30 years ago) and don't want to assume everything is ok, it is pretty rough :D

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 8:29 pm

Hi all, all jacked up and removed rear cill closing cover to reveal rust!

Is there a similar closing panel at the front? Just asking as theres some tatty undersealed fibreglass loosely attached and looks like covering fixings. Don't want to start probing without knowing.

ps - I 'm being lazy, I do have a workshop manual but your help is better with experience.

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Fri Apr 08, 2022 7:03 pm

Plucked up the courage and started on cill today, is there a prize for the least amount left?
:D

The replacements aren't predrilled so presume its fit and drill new holes in the metal, is it it ok to reuse the old holes in fibreglass or should I drill new ones and fill old?

Cheers

Paul
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