Lotus Elan

Starting to tackle +2 resto....

PostPost by: Foxie » Wed Feb 16, 2022 12:45 am

danbuoy1 wrote:Thanks Jono and Alan, excellent advice - thankyou.

<Snip>

Do you think taking the engine (weight) out helped as its mostly over the crossmember?

Paul


There is no advantage in removing the engine (Unless it needs work ! )

Its weight in the chassis does not effect any deforming stresses in the fibreglass body.

:)
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PostPost by: jono » Wed Feb 16, 2022 8:13 am

danbuoy1 wrote:Thanks Jono and Alan, excellent advice - thankyou.

I guess I'll learn as I go along but others experience helps stop the silly mistakes. Once I get one side apart it will be clearer I guess.

I'm wary of the body sagging or already sagged and just putting a new cill into a banana. I like the idea of a thick timber support under the floor - assuming it is normally flat? Do you think taking the engine (weight) out helped as its mostly over the crossmember?

I'm just wary as a naive youth replaced cills on a Triumph Spitfire and...couldn't shut the door afterwards! Resolved by car balancing on a jack and popping/rewelding, but what did that do to the shape.... :oops:

Cheers

Paul


If you are lifting the car from the bodyshell then, yes, removing the engine and gearbox takes out a huge amount of deadweight that would otherwise be hanging off the bodyshell. Given you are restoring the car it makes sense to remove the engine at this stage to make the shell more 'manageable' - this was my own rationale for doing it this way.

Once the sills were in then removed the empty chassis and supported the shell at each corner. The shell was much easier to work on and move about in this form.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Feb 16, 2022 4:09 pm

Ah see what you mean. I was intending to lift the body, leaving the chassis etc on the ground, mainly to see what the body underside looks like before deciding on work. Presume this will be lighter lift. Can also check chassis out but reckon will be shot after 50yrs.

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: jono » Wed Feb 16, 2022 4:45 pm

...you never know, I was lucky with mine and managed to repair it - 54 years old (not me the chassis)!

The plating to the base of the front towers was 'prophelactic' BTW - they were actually undamaged and full of grease but it made sense to do some strengthening whilst I was on. Everything was checked dimensionally and it was within 2mm of the standard on diagonals and other key points
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Feb 16, 2022 5:43 pm

Looks very good Juno, as you say no point in replacing if its minor repairs, did you just paint it afterwards? I've no idea what mine will look like but if body is anything to go by - will be bad!

Just one question, looking at different sill suppliers, whats the thought on stainless v galvanised? Price a bit more tho both will probably outlast the car but nice to fit and forget?

Cheers

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PostPost by: jono » Wed Feb 16, 2022 5:59 pm

I cleaned the chassis down, had it blasted and etched, did the welding then had it blasted again and primed then 2 packed.

I was lucky and managed to buy some good second hand galvanised sills from someone on this forum.

The Spyder versions are great and I would have bought those if I was going with new (though they are a bit heavier) however anything galvanised which oulast the car with the use they get these days.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Feb 16, 2022 6:05 pm

Thanks Jono - your welding looks great!

I'll think again on which sills to fit, as you say it won't get that much use (and very little with my progress so far!).

Cheers

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PostPost by: jono » Wed Feb 16, 2022 7:23 pm

I have to confess, my pal did the welding! :)
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Feb 16, 2022 8:01 pm

jono wrote:I have to confess, my pal did the welding! :)


Yeah but preparation was the key :D
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PostPost by: Bud English » Thu Feb 17, 2022 3:46 pm

[quote="danbuoy1"]...I like the idea of a thick timber support under the floor - assuming it is normally flat? /quote]

The floor is normally flat, but don't panic when the bottom of the sill flange isn't. The bottom edge of the sill and the flange are slightly curved downward from end to end.
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PostPost by: Foxie » Fri Feb 18, 2022 2:27 pm

Bud English wrote:
danbuoy1 wrote:
The floor is normally flat, but don't panic when the bottom of the sill flange isn't. The bottom edge of the sill and the flange are slightly curved downward from end to end.


Well Bud, maybe the fibre glass sill and flange you have may be curved down. I would say this is not by design, I think it makes the car look pot-bellied.

I have my second set of Spyder sills in the garage waiting to be fitted. I have just checked them and they are perfectly straight.

:)
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Fri Feb 18, 2022 5:45 pm

Foxie wrote:
danbuoy1 wrote:Thanks Jono and Alan, excellent advice - thankyou.

<Snip>

Do you think taking the engine (weight) out helped as its mostly over the crossmember?

Paul


There is no advantage in removing the engine (Unless it needs work ! )

Its weight in the chassis does not effect any deforming stresses in the fibreglass body.

:)


Thanks Foxie - well the engine will need work but intending to sort the body first as may take more time.

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: Bud English » Sat Feb 19, 2022 11:42 pm

My original sills, intact except for one jacking point, had a curved bottom edges. Not much, about a quarter inch over the length and the same on both sides. I doubt seriously that that vertical member sagged. I've mentioned this before and several others commented that theirs were the same. Replacements, I can't comment on. I had my replacements made to match the originals.
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PostPost by: Donels » Sun Feb 20, 2022 5:27 pm

Mine are slightly curved.

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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Sun Feb 20, 2022 11:32 pm

Interesting, is that the bottom edge of the cill flange or the side? As a matter of interest (if you fitted them) were the replacent cills straight?

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