Tow hooks

PostPost by: Bryonz » Fri Oct 22, 2021 8:51 am

Has anybody put tow hooks front and rear on a plus 2
Any help and pictures would be great
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PostPost by: mbell » Fri Oct 22, 2021 2:03 pm

I just stuck a couple of these in the boot:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3333-lb-c ... 57271.html
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: wotsisname » Fri Oct 22, 2021 3:01 pm

What's your expected use ? is it for competition, or just in case ?
The spyder chassis has a welded on loop at the front vacuum chamber. it is quite far back in relation to the nose, so likely anything you attached would rub on the paint.
I previously had a towbar on my plus 2. [early, transverse silencer] this was home made (previous owner) and fairly hefty metalwork inside and outside the boot, bolted back to the two rear most chassis mounts... I could imagine something like a loop being bolted in the same way might be useful
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Fri Oct 22, 2021 3:43 pm

This was covered a few years ago and one came my way as part of a job lot. Sold on to some brave soul - he may still be on this forum.

Attached a few pictures - the tow hitch bolts onto the four point attachment through the boot floor.

Even without the tow hitch it would provide a hell of a lot of rear end impact protection!!

It does bear more than a passing resemblance to a boat anchor...

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P1020379.JPG and
P1020378.JPG and
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PostPost by: Bryonz » Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:35 pm

Thanks but it looks heavy and ugly and I’m not sure if I would attach through boot floor
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PostPost by: Foxie » Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:13 pm

I made up a tow eye welded to a length of 1" x 3mm bar, which is attached to the Spyder tow bracket on the cross-member by a small u-bolt.

A small cable tie keeps it attached to the front spoiler. This always breaks under sideways forces when towing, but a bit of elastic cord through the nose drain hole prevents it dragging on the road if the tow rope goes slack.

I have a similar set-up on the rear, where I use a bracket bolted to the two rear body-to-chassis bolts and a small length of steel rope with eyes clamped on both ends.

:)
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PostPost by: jasper2347 » Sat Oct 23, 2021 3:05 pm

We have them on our race car at both ends. We just used 'D' shackles and made straps up to length. Depends what you want to do with them I suppose? Can take pics if you want. :D
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Sun Oct 24, 2021 11:05 am

Bryonz wrote:Thanks but it looks heavy and ugly and I’m not sure if I would attach through boot floor


Yes it was heavy, but it you want a tow hitch, that's what you need. As for ugly, it is all hidden beneath the boot floor. The attachment through the boot floor is not load bearing, as the other end of the hitch connects to the chassis, so all fore & aft forces goes to the strongest area there. The wide bits on either side that sit in the bumper mounting slot internally, with bolts & spread the side to side loads. Apart from the four through holes in the boot floor, it seemed easy to fit and remove when not needed. Quite well thought out..

If all you want is a hook to pull the car out of a ditch, then an eye on the chassis as shown by other posters is fine.

As has been said, it all depends what you want it for. I'd love to know if the one I sold was fitted!

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PostPost by: greg40green » Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:45 pm

mbell wrote:I just stuck a couple of these in the boot:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3333-lb-c ... 57271.html



Does anyone know if these straps are available in the UK ?
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Oct 24, 2021 9:16 pm

I would comment those HF straps are only for round metal, so one would still want to use a carabiner or metal to metal connection. I have used them for trucks with axels in the past and have given up, mainly as you want to cross “X” your tie-downs from one corner of the car to the opposite side of deck.

1st, Nylon webbing like wire rope etc. Doesn’t like 90’ bends, normally 4x their thickness. I.E. the HF “axel strap”, axes are 2-3” round.
2nd most metal on the Elan is fairly thin and bendable. That also would enjoy cutting into the webbing.

845538F7-CF88-42E8-9FE7-E634499E043D.jpeg and


This also aids as anchor, as well as having a hook. One of the most important things in towing is a movable chock, if something lets go!!!

51CF0F5F-1D9A-4293-A83C-F3D6EA60681C.jpeg and


Doesn’t need to be as elaborate, but I have heard tale of brand new MB take out 5 other new and millions in damage, and many many others.
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PostPost by: mbell » Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:53 am

h20hamelan wrote:I would comment those HF straps are only for round metal, so one would still want to use a carabiner or metal to metal connection.


That's interesting, thanks. My plan is only to use them for winching the car on to a flat bed. My experience is with out them they hook up to the not very strong front suspension arms and use them. So these straps are likely much better for that, even if not the correct thing.

One on the car can be secured by straps on the wheels, instead.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Mon Oct 25, 2021 3:41 pm

something like this, distributes weight between A arm/wishbone mounts to chassis best.

B9E9B7F2-5FB2-4051-B8D0-E5C60FF5E457.jpeg and


keeping above 45-degrees
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PostPost by: prezoom » Mon Oct 25, 2021 4:03 pm

A friend made a similar tow apparatus to tow his S3 from Colorado to California. The attachment pieces to the chassis were done at the lower inboard end of the lower control arm locating bolts. I saw him use it one time, when towing an S2 he had purchased to his home. Worked quite well. I think the tow from Colorado to California really proved its design,
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