Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

rgh0 wrote:

Newsax wrote:

Geoff wrote:Hi, welcome to Elan ownership,I have just finished restoring an Elan S4 and I also live in Belgium
I am at the coast in Bredene. If you live nearby I can come and have a look and help out if needed
cheers Geoff.

I'm more on the south side near Mons,
Any help is welcome, but a bit far away I'm afraid .

But I took not eof it

There is nothing in Belgium that is to far away from any other part of Belgium, that is if you come from Australia.

Well noted , if any important issue raised, I will contact you for help !

Thanks

Hi Newsax,
i suggest you replace the Side Members before you lift the Body off the Chassis. New Side members will help support the Body and stop too much movement when lifting.
Get Stainless side Members to do job only once.
To remove old side Members you only need to remove rear Wheel and support under Chapman Strut.
Go along join in Sill with a Hacksaw Blade, then vacuum up the pile of rust dust on floor
SJS have Stainless Steel Sills.
Alan

alan.barker wrote:Hi Newsax,
i suggest you replace the Side Members before you lift the Body off the Chassis. New Side members will help support the Body and stop too much movement when lifting.
Get Stainless side Members to do job only once.
To remove old side Members you only need to remove rear Wheel and support under Chapman Strut.
Go along join in Sill with a Hacksaw Blade, then vacuum up the pile of rust dust on floor
SJS have Stainless Steel Sills.
Alan

Thanks, that was indeed my plan
Will by side members from Spyder probably.

What is "support under Chapman Strut" ?
Would you have a drawing for "Go along join in Sill with a Hacksaw Blade" ?

HI there,

Finally got my hand on a Lotus Elan +2 chassis/subframe from 1968 totally refurbished and ready to use (with 26R type reinforcement)

with some others pieces I still need to sort out ( more pictures to come later) :
Non exhaustive list :
- Sill member (galvanized)
- Wiring Loom (front, dash and rear)
- Front suspensions (mainly refurbished)
- rear suspension (new)
- Half shaft
- Lotus Elan original steering Wheel (to refurb)
- All around refurbubished calipper
...

So next steps when I have time :
1) Change sill members (rust powder form) by new galvanized one (from spyder)
2) remove all necessary to detache shell from old rusty subframe
3) start to dismantle step by step and refurbish if needed and reattache to new subframe …
…
At least it's the plan
This will definitely take ages for my first restauration, but is a good start I beleive

Whow!...very well done, nice find. You have managed to find some very nice and useful bits and pieces that will certainly help your restoration along.

Alan

Support under Chapman Strut is put a Scissor Jack under to support Car.
Alan

alan.barker wrote:Support under Chapman Strut is put a Scissor Jack under to support Car.
Alan

Thanks for the answer, I'm indeed struggling to find where to put the jack (as the current subframe is rotten) while changing the sill member.
Still need to figure out what's the best way… probably using a solid plank to allow maximum repartition of Weight ? without damaging actual rotten subframe and even less the shell

Yes, solid Plank to spread load maxi.
I prefer the Stainless Sills also because when you drill for the Screws along the bottom there is no untreated metal in the Holes.
With the Scissor Jack under the Chapman Strut the new Sill will slide in from the back with a little help . I put stainless Screws along the bottom also.
For the replacement Dustshields you can make your own from sheet alloy using Snips. Then go around the join with Body with a Silicone Gun.
Have fun
Alan

alan.barker wrote:Yes, solid Plank to spread load maxi.
I prefer the Stainless Sills also because when you drill for the Screws along the bottom there is no untreated metal in the Holes.
With the Scissor Jack under the Chapman Strut the new Sill will slide in from the back with a little help . I put stainless Screws along the bottom also.
For the replacement Dustshields you can make your own from sheet alloy using Snips. Then go around the join with Body with a Silicone Gun.
Have fun
Alan

Mine are galvanized from Spyder, will carefully drill those holes and make sure no metal particule are left.
What dimension of screw have you used for the bottom ? they are attached to a nut or you can make treated hole ?

Ok will try to put jack under chapman strut then if it can help to put new sills in
I have new dust shield ready, but was not knowing that they were only glued by silicone, was Believing they were attached somewhat (diffucult to say with the rusted one on there at the moment )

Sorry i meant to say fix Dust Shield with self tappers. The Ssilicone is to seal around the edges
Alan

From manual I see the following (so screw with nuts for sill, an djust screw for backing plate) :

2 050B0003 1 Reinforcing Member - LH
050B0002 1 Reinforcing Member - RH
FUFS1012 22 Screw, Reinforcing Member to Body
YUFN100F 22 Nut, Reinforcing Member to Body
A03W0605 44 Washer, Reinforcing Member to Body
050B1235 4 Backing Plate - Plain
050B1236 2 Backing Plate - Seat Belt
XUFS0412 24 Screw, Backing Plate Fixings
L04W0000 24 Washer, Backing Plate Fixings
050B1271 2 Dust Shield - Wheel Arch - Front
PSTS0608 20 Screw - Dust Shields to Body

Do you know where I can find the dimensions/caracteristics of those ?

I bought a pack from eBay ( https://www.befr.ebay.be/itm/LOTUS-ELAN ... 2749.l2649 )
Are they in this pack ?
1/4 UNF X 1/2, 1/4 UNF X 3/4, 1/4 UNF X 1,
5/16 UNF X 3/4, 5/16 UNF X 1, 5/16 UNF X 1 1/4,
3/8 UNF X 3/4, 3/8 UNF X 1, 3/8 UNF X 1 1/4,
SPRING WASHERS - 1/4, 5/16, 3/8
HEAVY WASHERS - 1/4, 5/16, 3/8
NYLOCS - 1/4, 5/16, 3/8
FULL NUTS - 1/4, 5/16, 3/8

Newsax wrote:From manual I see the following (so screw with nuts for sill, an djust screw for backing plate) :


FUFS1012 22 Screw, Reinforcing Member to Body
YUFN100F 22 Nut, Reinforcing Member to Body
A03W0605 44 Washer, Reinforcing Member to Body

XUFS0412 24 Screw, Backing Plate Fixings
L04W0000 24 Washer, Backing Plate Fixings


Do you know where I can find the dimensions/caracteristics of those ?

Found the answer myself
But not sure if they are the right one ?? (sound quite large for the sills ?)

So : Sill below screw : FUFS1012 Screw, Reinforcing Member to Body : (nyloc nut and anti shaking washer)
F --> ??
UF --> UNF
S --> Screw
10 --> 10/16 inch diameter (5/8) --> thats large ????
12 --> 12/16 inch Long (3/4)

XUFS0412 Screw, Backing Plate Fixings

X --> Hexognal
UF --> UNF
S --> Screw
04 --> 4/16 inch diameter (1/4)
12 --> 12/16 inch Long (3/4)

No mention of self typing (ST) nor any nuts ??

alan.barker wrote:Yes, solid Plank to spread load maxi.
I prefer the Stainless Sills also because when you drill for the Screws along the bottom there is no untreated metal in the Holes.
With the Scissor Jack under the Chapman Strut the new Sill will slide in from the back with a little help . I put stainless Screws along the bottom also.
For the replacement Dustshields you can make your own from sheet alloy using Snips. Then go around the join with Body with a Silicone Gun.
Have fun
Alan

This is not an issue. Galvanizing is a sacrificial coating

If you. for instance use a galvanized bolt on a bare steel sheet, it will create a little rust free zone around it.
The material in the hole may have a haze of rust but will not become rot

35 years with spyder sills

I do think the stainless ones are cool looking

Gus,
as you like and there is more than one way to skin a chat.
If you don't mind me asking, how do you know your spyder Sills are still ok.
Have you removed the Dustshields to check them out or used a flexible mini Camera.
Alan

Hello All,

As mentionned at the beginning of this topics, the carbs on the TC are not the appropriates ones.

I have so found second hand 151 and bought full jetting for a Elan +2 (thanks to this site )

I now just need to find time to take care of Sven ...