Lotus Elan

Possible new owner - could do with some help please!

PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 2:51 pm

Hi Alan, thanks - yes been accepted and not a real steal but feel comfortable, I knew the family so didn't want to short change them either, altho think they're happy now decided....and for me :D

I'll start to look at books on line, agree workshop manual good idea, but just wondered on restoration books, I've made mistakes in the past and its so easy to assume rather than know. [like welding new sills on Mk4 Spitfire then finding doors wouldn't shut as it had bananad and, seriously, I popped the welds, jacked it up in the middle and rewelded....!].

A silly question...is it possible for 2 blokes to lift the rear of the car onto a trailer? Thinking ahead the rear brakes may be seized or left in gear and unable to winch on trailer.

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: pptom » Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:37 pm

Good work!
Workshop manual, Miles Wilkins twin cam book and the internet are what I used. It's amazing what info you can find on here, plus many helpful and knowledgeable people to ask.
Not sure about lifting the rear, I wouldn't want to put any extra stress on the bodywork / wheel arches etc.
Maybe best cutting the brake lines and unbolting the calipers + knocking them off the discs. Do not loose the rear calipers though! They are rare.
Had to do this with my fronts.
You might also be able to unbolt the prop shaft, diff end, if you can get underneath.
Lifting the rear of the car on a jack is a whole other problem!
Best of luck
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PostPost by: The Veg » Wed Jan 29, 2020 4:22 pm

Welcome to the asylum Paul! :mrgreen:

Sounds like you've got a huge project ahead of you but at the other end of it it will truly be YOUR car and you'll know it better than the guys who screwed it together half a century ago. I can't wait to read of your progress with it!

One book that you may be interested in is the new Plus 2 book by Kevin Whittle, who is a member of this forum. While it's not a restoration guide per se, it does contain loads of information that ranges from interesting to useful, from the history of the Plus 2 to the variants and the details of different years and more. I'd rate it a must-have for any true Plus 2 devotee, but not a necessity for restoration.

I'll second the mention of the parts manual too as it comes in handy for seeing how things are put together or figuring out missing bits.
1969/70 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:01 pm

Thanks guys - OMG :D

A piece of paper just visible in the car says "Don't touch brake pedal" as the pistons had been pushed back, so hoping brakes will be ok, its more that if left in gear, and I can't get inside and engine seized and...could do with a sky hook to get on the trailer! But good point about not putting any stress on it by lifting till know better. Crawling underneath without jacking not an option. I'm guessing could prize rear screen out as last resort, don't want to waste my mates time with car trailer that's all.

Thanks for info on manuals, I got parts on my Triumph and does come in handy, moreso on model changes. Now I need to find some space......!

Really appreciate the advice given, hopefully another British car back on the road.
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PostPost by: alanr » Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:39 pm

Re-getting into the car.
Just be careful if you take the heated rear screen out. They are unobtanium new I think. Only rubbers and trim available. It will be quite a quite a scramble in to get over the seats to get to the door even if you do.
Another option would be to smash the drivers door glass. Don't think they are available new but I see there are a some on ebay at a price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/143497510347?c ... HAQAvD_BwE

Alan.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:10 pm

Thanks for the heads up Alan, someone else mentioned rear screen - I'll leave well alone for now! The windscreen has started to delaminate (presumably MOT failure, I know, not needed now but my insurer expects them to be checked over - ie get an MOT....] so maybe better option. As suggested I did take door chrome trim off and prodded, but its just luck and nothing to see. Last try will be too get a long rod and push past window frame to n/s door catch to see if that will release. Failing that, I'll park it up in a city, pretty sure will be broken into 5 mins later... :D

Paul
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PostPost by: ncm » Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:30 pm

Parts list is in the wiki. Section BK shows the door latch.

Plus2-Parts-BK.jpg and
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PostPost by: mbell » Wed Jan 29, 2020 10:18 pm

ncm wrote:Parts list is in the wiki. Section BK shows the door latch.

Plus2-Parts-BK.jpg


As mentioned if you pop the chrome strip of below the window (it just of clips), then remove the screws/clips it should free up a decent amount of space to poke around in there and try operate the rods or lock leavers with a bit more force.

I did have some door sticking on my car that require some cleaning lubing of the catch mechanism, when it was like this it need a good nudge from the inside to open the door.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:01 pm

Great thanks, coincidentally found same earlier when looking on line....I took the chrome off and pulled back the rubber but even with torch its not helping. The driver door rattles so not jammed, the catch goes all the way in, key turns but that it. On passenger side, catch won't more or the door lock - so reckon its got to be the driver side

Its got a Webasto roof which has a couple of tears in the corner which could be something to break through - vinyl easier to replace. I'll have another go at the weekend

Cheers

Paul
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:05 pm

PS - got this email today.....hopefully this project won't be "from riches to dust"..... :D

From rust to riches - cars of all conditions will be seen at #NECRestoShow
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PostPost by: mbell » Thu Jan 30, 2020 12:29 am

My memory is that removing the clips and screws should release the window seal that should improve access.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: alanr » Thu Jan 30, 2020 8:31 am

Paul,
I know you say that the front screen has some delamination but you need to be aware that the screen you have is of the 'bonded in' later variety which although is obtainable and fitting it certainly can be done is not a job for the faint hearted. If you do a search on here for bonded screen replacement you will see the issues involved.
The best way in for now I think is through the drivers door, either as others suggest try and get at the lock mechanism by some means or as a last resort break the door glass.

Alan.
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Thu Jan 30, 2020 4:09 pm

Thanks or all info and on the windscreen, something to consider.

Obviously loath to break anything if possible, I'll try the locks again - as you can imagine trim screws aren't what they were so not sure I can easily get off . Suspect the outside push button not doing anything.
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PostPost by: TeeJay » Thu Jan 30, 2020 4:58 pm

Paul.
There is a lot of info in the forums “WIKI-COMMING SOON”.

Here is a link to Plus 2 Parts List in the WIKI: - https://lotuselan.net/wiki/Category:Plus_2_Parts_List

When you have clicked on the list, as well as all the parts lists, look at the top, see the WIKI link. Place your mouse over the WIKI; you will see a list including Shop Floor, then Work Shop Manual.

Have a look around; there is lots of useful info.

Also when the door window; exterior and interior weather strip are removed; there is a gap that should help access to door locking items. As listed above by ncm.

All the best with your new project
Trevor
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PostPost by: danbuoy1 » Fri Jan 31, 2020 12:28 am

Hi Teejay, thanks for info, that link looks handy!!

Umm - window, I presumed I'd have to be able to get inside to remove that, or is it possible from outside? The chrome strip is off and rubber just pulled back, can't see anything there so its just prodding around. I've got access all round the car so can try either side but driver side looks best as door can be moved a bit

Cheers

Paul
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