Lotus Elan

Slow electric window

PostPost by: Fishermt » Sun Jan 29, 2017 1:15 pm

Hello,

The electric windows have always been slow on my +2 but recently the driver's side has been struggling so much I have had to pull on the top of the window to keep in moving. Yesterday I sprayed the runner channels with silicone but that seems to have aggravated the situation. Maybe I needed to let it completely dry to get the full effect?

I seem to recall seeing on the forum or an advert for a +2 mention of an upgraded electric window motor.

Dose anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

Marc
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Jan 29, 2017 2:18 pm

Firstly check the supply voltage ( and ground continuity ) to the doors by applying a good 12v battery direct to the wires as they exit the door tubes...this will tell you wether it is mechanical or electrical.

John :wink:
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Sun Jan 29, 2017 2:39 pm

Marc, the Plus 2 motors are readily available (at least here in NA) as rebuilt units. They are a widely used GM Delco part. The call-up I used was a '69 Chevelle, but they were used in a wide variety of cars. If you search on the Cardone site by part number the description includes a long list of donor cars; unfortunately I don't see any European Vauxhall or Opel models listed, so can't help you there.

This thread has a bunch more details including the Cardone part numbers...

lotus-electrical-f38/fitting-window-motor-assemblies-t24949.html

I did all of the common things first, such as new wires, relays, good grounds, better fuses, cleaning of the drive gear, clean / lubricate the tracks, etc. The rebuilt motors transformed the window performance. They now work quicker than a modern unit.

Note two things when ordering the new motor; you need to retain your drive gear when sending the old motor back for the core charge, and the motor positions side to side in the car are reversed in the Plus 2 from the listed GM donor cars. I would recommend doing both sides.

HTH

Stu
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Jan 29, 2017 3:29 pm

I would check the brushes in the motor before deciding on a more expensive replacement.

There's no much that can go wrong with a DC electric motor except worn brushes, dirty commutator or sticky bearings.
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PostPost by: RichC » Sun Jan 29, 2017 8:02 pm

check the state of the steel runner channel along the bottom of the window .i.e. the nylon pivot from the motor runs inside it ...
if it's rusted and holed and nylon pivot is in a state that would need to be sorted first 8)
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PostPost by: Fishermt » Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:59 pm

Thanks for all the replies. Will provide an update once resolved.

Marc
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PostPost by: Foxie » Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:27 pm

My windows were very slow. I checked the operational voltage under load and it was way down. I fitted relays, one up one down either side on the bulkhead. Now the windows fly up and down :)
68 Elan +2, 70 Elan +2s
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PostPost by: gus » Fri Feb 03, 2017 1:28 am

I will bet it is not the motor

First check the wiring.

You can kind of reach the connections on the motor with a little blood loss. run some test wires right to a battery and see if it works better

The grease on the horizontal runner is hardened and now anti grease

When I took mine apart some years ago, the grease was so hard that I could hardly get the roller out of the channel to get the motor out

The 'right way' is to disassemble the door clean the grease and apply fresh grease

Or you can spray some WD40 on it to soften the grease up


When I bought my car the windows would not go up with the engine off[or idling with generator] After rewiring with 14 ga wires on their own circuits, no problems. Fresh grease will make them positively normal.
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