Removing side impact frames
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The Spyder ones should go in and out with the rear struts in place, but the original Lotus items do require the struts to be removed.
Are they side impact bars? At only a few inches off the ground I don't think they would stop much in the way of a side impact, unless the car hitting you had a snow plough on the front. I believe they are just there to strengthen up the shell a little, which is very floppy without them!
Mark
Are they side impact bars? At only a few inches off the ground I don't think they would stop much in the way of a side impact, unless the car hitting you had a snow plough on the front. I believe they are just there to strengthen up the shell a little, which is very floppy without them!
Mark
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Elanintheforest - Coveted Fifth Gear
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They also provide the seat belt mounting point.
Regards
Regards
- ianthomson72
- First Gear
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ianthomson72 wrote:They also provide the seat belt mounting point.
Regards
Really? I thought those were on the spaceframe around the door aperture like the two seater.
We are talking +2s, and mine fell out the bottom OF THE CAR, unlike Simon's which must have required medical attention.
Meg
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
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Quart Meg Miles - Coveted Fifth Gear
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CBUEB1771 wrote:Quart Meg Miles wrote:Really? I thought those were on the spaceframe around the door aperture like the two seater.
The +2 does not have the lattice structure which is bonded into Elan shells.
Thanks Russ,
My ignorance, but it must be why I never had to touch it on my S130, everything else went wrong! As the sill members were oxide what was my seat belt held on by?
Meg
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
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Quart Meg Miles - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Fiberglass, rust and a prayer.
"My my, hey hey... It's better to burn out than it is to rust."
Ah, life on the edge.
"My my, hey hey... It's better to burn out than it is to rust."
Ah, life on the edge.
Bud
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
"Winnemucca - says it all really!!"
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
"Winnemucca - says it all really!!"
- Bud English
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Steve, you can take them OUT either front or rear. Just use your sawzall, or a hacksaw, and cut them off, chunk at a time as you pull them out. No problem.
Which way to get new ones back IN is a different question. If you're working toward a new paint job/respray, then I would suggest:
- out and back in from the rear
- jack car and remove one rear wheel. Keep other wheels on ground
- put jack under rear suspension and lift rear hub/compress suspension
- now your hub is mostly out of the path of the sill as it comes out/goes back in.
- the final bit of clearance comes from flexing the fiberglass outer sill out to allow the sill member to go into place on a bit of an angle.
Honestly, mine were not a problem doing it this way. However, if the paint on my car was really good, I might worry about gel coat cracks when flexing the outer sill panel.
One final tip/reminder: Keep the doors closed, keep the car level, with normal "weight" on all four corners. The rear hub on the side you're working on should be jacked enough to approximate normal ride height. This is so the body is not twisted during the process. Work on one side at a time. Completely install the new member before moving over to other side.
Regards,
Randy
Which way to get new ones back IN is a different question. If you're working toward a new paint job/respray, then I would suggest:
- out and back in from the rear
- jack car and remove one rear wheel. Keep other wheels on ground
- put jack under rear suspension and lift rear hub/compress suspension
- now your hub is mostly out of the path of the sill as it comes out/goes back in.
- the final bit of clearance comes from flexing the fiberglass outer sill out to allow the sill member to go into place on a bit of an angle.
Honestly, mine were not a problem doing it this way. However, if the paint on my car was really good, I might worry about gel coat cracks when flexing the outer sill panel.
One final tip/reminder: Keep the doors closed, keep the car level, with normal "weight" on all four corners. The rear hub on the side you're working on should be jacked enough to approximate normal ride height. This is so the body is not twisted during the process. Work on one side at a time. Completely install the new member before moving over to other side.
Regards,
Randy
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Sea Ranch - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Randy,
Thanks for that,
Mine look perfect so don't want to saw them.
I'm thinking of building a track car and obviously the plus2 is very heavy in comparison to the 2 seater so looking at options to reduce weight.
It will need a roll cage so that will also have to replace the side frames - haven't started yet just looking at it
Regards
Steve
Thanks for that,
Mine look perfect so don't want to saw them.
I'm thinking of building a track car and obviously the plus2 is very heavy in comparison to the 2 seater so looking at options to reduce weight.
It will need a roll cage so that will also have to replace the side frames - haven't started yet just looking at it
Regards
Steve
- patrics
- Fourth Gear
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On both my Plus 2's most of the sill members fell out of the sills when I opened up the bottom joint; the rest came out with the vacuum cleaner.......
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
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Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
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