Headlight Vacuum System
11 posts
• Page 1 of 1
I'm assuming you mean the vacuum pod, the so-called "cylinder vacuum" unit.
What I and some others have done was to clean up the old unit and fiberglass the lower (vacuum) half of the pod (the bottom half where the vacuum is generated). I'm presuming you have some rust holes there. The polyester resin and mat makes a great repair. Further, some have made a better seal for the rubber diaphragm with aerosol tire repair rubber. There are various flexible rubber-type products around that can be sprayed or poured into the top half of the vacuum unit, allowed to flow around until cured.
Between these two fixes you should have a fully functioning vacuum actuator unit.
Randy
What I and some others have done was to clean up the old unit and fiberglass the lower (vacuum) half of the pod (the bottom half where the vacuum is generated). I'm presuming you have some rust holes there. The polyester resin and mat makes a great repair. Further, some have made a better seal for the rubber diaphragm with aerosol tire repair rubber. There are various flexible rubber-type products around that can be sprayed or poured into the top half of the vacuum unit, allowed to flow around until cured.
Between these two fixes you should have a fully functioning vacuum actuator unit.
Randy
-
Sea Ranch - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1141
- Joined: 07 Mar 2011
SJ Sportscars (and RD Enterprizes) list them, of course, but at 165GBP, I can understand looking for a used or reconditioned unit first! Hopefully someone will be along shortly with a suggestion
If you've not done fiberglass repairs yet, you'll find it very easy to get started.
Best of luck,
Randy
If you've not done fiberglass repairs yet, you'll find it very easy to get started.
Best of luck,
Randy
-
Sea Ranch - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1141
- Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Hang on a minute Geof....unless you have a "failsafe" system, then loss of vacuum will not be your problem. UK market cars used the vacuum to raise the light pods, they drop under gravity. (That of course was always the problem, failsafe system uses vacuum to retract them).
Let us know how it goes!
Martin B
Let us know how it goes!
Martin B
Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana.
72 Europa Special, 72 Sprint, 72 Plus 2
72 Europa Special, 72 Sprint, 72 Plus 2
- martinbrowning
- Third Gear
- Posts: 320
- Joined: 07 Jun 2007
martinbrowning wrote:Hang on a minute Geof....unless you have a "failsafe" system, then loss of vacuum will not be your problem. UK market cars used the vacuum to raise the light pods, they drop under gravity. (That of course was always the problem, failsafe system uses vacuum to retract them).
Let us know how it goes!
Martin B
Not gravity... Springs to pull the UK headlamps down.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 5062
- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
On the failsafe you could also have a problem with the solenoid valve.
I would suggest you test the Vacuum pod off the car first. Then check non return valve near inlet track of n? cylinder. Then bypass the Solenoid Valve fitted on inner wing exhaust side near the front before rad.
On my 1973 +2S 130 failsafe i replaced the Solenoid Valve with a modern replacement with a Viton seal inside.
After when the headlamp switch is on mainbeam the Headlamp Flash will work (very handy)
Alan
I would suggest you test the Vacuum pod off the car first. Then check non return valve near inlet track of n? cylinder. Then bypass the Solenoid Valve fitted on inner wing exhaust side near the front before rad.
On my 1973 +2S 130 failsafe i replaced the Solenoid Valve with a modern replacement with a Viton seal inside.
After when the headlamp switch is on mainbeam the Headlamp Flash will work (very handy)
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3711
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008
11 posts
• Page 1 of 1