69 Plus 2S Project
56 posts
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What tyres are you going for, I?ve just sent my steel wheels off for blasting and powder coating so will be looking for tyres soon
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 889
- Joined: 16 May 2017
- Location: Lincolnshire
After a lot of hunting around I'm going for Blockley's 165 HR 13 radials - they have a really nice period tread pattern and they also supply tubes - link here: http://www.blockleytyre.com/page2.htm#prices
?69 plus the usual charges so not too much more than modern looking ones....
?69 plus the usual charges so not too much more than modern looking ones....
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 604
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
- Location: Fleet, Hants, UK
So that will be tubed Tyres?
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 889
- Joined: 16 May 2017
- Location: Lincolnshire
Not sure - I'll consult with Blockleys when I buy them. On alloys Lotus recommended tubed and tubeless tyres in the workshop manual according to the tyre chosen. I'd rather not have tubes if I don't have to - I've had enough blowouts on motorbikes with tubes to know that a puncture in a tubed tyre is usually rapid and complete deflation, while picking up the same nail or screw in a tubeless tyre just means a gradual loss of pressure. On the four old alloys I'm refurbishing, three had tubeless and one had a tube.
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 604
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
- Location: Fleet, Hants, UK
I?ve been in conversation with Blockley, the tyres are suitable to be tubeless but it depends on the wheels. If they have the retaining ridge inside the rim to prevent the tyre coming off then they can be tubeless, if the rim doesn?t have the ridge then they should have tubes fitted and Blockley make their own tube specially for their tyres. Having said that, on my steel wheels three were tubeless and two tubes. I plan to fit tubes.
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 889
- Joined: 16 May 2017
- Location: Lincolnshire
Ah ha - Thread Resurrection!
Now I've sold my other Plus 2 I've got ALD in my new workshop and am getting going on finishing her off (before she finishes me off!)
So I've painted the engine bay and have just ordered up a load of engine bay grommits and fittings and am planning on starting at the front and working back. I've just posted up a request for measurements to fit my pedal box, and am now getting ready to fit out the engine bay ancillaries, starting with a new wiper motor, boxes and rack.
So watch this space.......
Now I've sold my other Plus 2 I've got ALD in my new workshop and am getting going on finishing her off (before she finishes me off!)
So I've painted the engine bay and have just ordered up a load of engine bay grommits and fittings and am planning on starting at the front and working back. I've just posted up a request for measurements to fit my pedal box, and am now getting ready to fit out the engine bay ancillaries, starting with a new wiper motor, boxes and rack.
So watch this space.......
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 604
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
- Location: Fleet, Hants, UK
Hello!
Are you going to cut a (big) hole in the top of that pedal box?
I did (and made a nice plate to cover it) and I am GLAD I did. Couple times now over 5 years I have had to access the pedal pivots. Once the brake pedal cotter pin came out and the pivot pin slid part way out. Fortunately I was not far from home!
Very handy for maintenance, etc
Randy
Are you going to cut a (big) hole in the top of that pedal box?
I did (and made a nice plate to cover it) and I am GLAD I did. Couple times now over 5 years I have had to access the pedal pivots. Once the brake pedal cotter pin came out and the pivot pin slid part way out. Fortunately I was not far from home!
Very handy for maintenance, etc
Randy
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Sea Ranch - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1098
- Joined: 07 Mar 2011
- Location: West Coast, Canada (Surrey, BC)
I will be cutting an access hole in the top of the pedal box. I did on my other plus 2 which made changing the master cylinders a lot easier! I’ll post up pics when I do it.
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 604
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
- Location: Fleet, Hants, UK
Nice.
I only mention this because I know it is common to put a little hole in the top; my car came that way. But I discovered that working through that little hole was not much better than no access at all from the top.
I ended up cutting a sizeable square hole on the top, leaving enough margin (about 3/4") to attach a cover that was about the same size as the top. In a way, the cover doesn't look so out of place because it's the size of the top of the pedal box, as opposed to a small plate.
In any case, hoping you're finding some enjoyment in this project! And that you get to drive it, too. Ours has been on the road for about 5 1/2 years now and it is a thrill to travel about in something you have restored with your own two hands (and brings great responses from others).
Randy
I only mention this because I know it is common to put a little hole in the top; my car came that way. But I discovered that working through that little hole was not much better than no access at all from the top.
I ended up cutting a sizeable square hole on the top, leaving enough margin (about 3/4") to attach a cover that was about the same size as the top. In a way, the cover doesn't look so out of place because it's the size of the top of the pedal box, as opposed to a small plate.
In any case, hoping you're finding some enjoyment in this project! And that you get to drive it, too. Ours has been on the road for about 5 1/2 years now and it is a thrill to travel about in something you have restored with your own two hands (and brings great responses from others).
Randy
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Sea Ranch - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1098
- Joined: 07 Mar 2011
- Location: West Coast, Canada (Surrey, BC)
If you search for my “Plus2 pedal box removal” thread it details how I did the opening on my other Plus 2 pedal box.
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 604
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
- Location: Fleet, Hants, UK
The complete top of my pedal box comes off, leaving a flange about 1/2 inch wide all around the top of the box
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 889
- Joined: 16 May 2017
- Location: Lincolnshire
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