Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

So, after havign the car for 4 days and making a number of enquiries on here and received suggestions re: planning, I have done some inspection and start planning.

Brakes, while visually dirty etc were leak free, discs withou any lipping at all and pads virtually new (though the fronts were missing the shim between piston and pad). No fluid leaks and the rubber piston seals were supple and free from craks or splits.

Suspension
So, ordered full set of front and rear wishbone bushes and sway bar bushes, ball joints and ie rod ends. Will strip and fit all of these over the next couple of weeks, balance the wheels and have the alignment done to factory spec. Hopefully will either cure clunks and so on - or confirm that the damper internals are knackered.

Timing/carbs
Bought electronic ignition bits to go into the existing 23D distributor. I will remove and check for excessive wear, end float etc before refitting and repalce if required.

Bought 2 x weber carb service kits and replacement seal, o-rings and thackery washers. Will remove carbs and refurb, replace and balance myself. It is a stock engine as far as I can tell, so I doub tit needs any different sized jets etc.

Engine
Will look at cleaning up leaks and figring out where the oil is coming from.
Will check water temp gauge is working accuratlety before deciding if the cdooling systm needs any attention.

Will take photos as and when for those interested.

What is your conclusion on the steering? Were you able to lubricate? Are the billows in good shape? Might want to consider replacing those as well when you have the tie rod ends off if they are dry and brittle. Dan

Hi John

Make sure you don't overlook the trunnions when you do your front end. check for wear, an overhauls kit and clean and lubricate did wonders for my +2 once I finally got around to taking it all apart. Apologies if I am teaching my grandmother to suck eggs.

Good luck

Andy

The bellows are not torn or damaged at all - tonight I will try to check if the rack is lubricated at all/properly.

The tie rod ends, while they look liek they will be very difficult to remove due to corrosion of the threaded bit (corrosionX penetrating liquid will budge this easily. BRILLIANT product) - the ends themselves were mobile, in that I was able to rotate them with the help of some pliers.

The only bushes I probably will not change (yet) will be top and bottom of the damper/spring unit.

I have ordered trunnion bush - and I expect it may also need greasing (there is a grease nipple there which I assume is for the trunnion).

Hi Jon,
They have a grease nipple installed but the trunnions should be lubricated using EP80 gearbox oil as listed in the workshop manual. You can get oil guns with the appropriate end adapter.
Search the archives for the many threads on the subject.

Regards Mick G

1 hour and 41 minutes. That took a lot longer than I expected. John, you used the word "grease" when referring to how you planned to lubricate your trunnions, which has opened this post up to the possibility of being used to settle a long standing debate on whether trunnions should be "greased" or "oiled" as Mick states. Search the archives for more on the various points of support for each side of the debate and decide for yourself what you prefer to do with your trunnions. Cheers, Dan

Sorry about that Dan, a bit slow, I was cooking my dinner.
Wife and eldest daughter gone on holiday

Mick G

I can't wait to see how the wiki page on trunnion lubrication evolves !

cheers
Rohan

which has opened this post up to the possibility of being used to settle a long standing debate on whether trunnions should be "greased" or "oiled"

Never been settled before, cant see it being settled now

chris.

Hi All

I have used EP 90 gear oil and still have the original trunnions from 1971, cannot remember what the manual says

rgh0 wrote:I can't wait to see how the wiki page on trunnion lubrication evolves !

cheers
Rohan

I as wondering about that one as well Rohan,

John, make sure you have them check the rear toe during alignment. With the stock wishbones it is not adjustable. Spyder makes adjustable wishbones if desired. Anyway, if toe is incorrect at the rear it can really screw things up dramatically. Apologies if you had this in mind already.

Plan looks good. Enjoy the car.

Stu

If rear toe is out, but not adjustable, how does one correct it? Large hammer??

SO

Car owned for a week and a bit. Spend so far:

Tools: ?193
Parts: ?487
Beer: ?24

No labour spend yet, as don eit all myself so far - but sending all the front and rear wishbones to a mate's garage to press out all the bushes, snadblast and paint. Red or black?

Only need to buy solid drive shafts and a limited slip diff from Quaife.

...don't worry John, it's just the start

I'm interested in your comment about a limited slip diff - what has caused you to consider this?

The general view is that the compliance and long travel in the +2 suspension is such as to restrict unloading of the inner wheel rendering a LSD (or ATB diff) of limited value on a road car.

I did think about one very early on in my project but decided not to do it.

Red or black?

I went for black, personally I prefer to try and blend everything under the wheel arches into one black area. Focuses the attention on the chrome rims and spinners



Chris