Lotus Elan

Thought i would have this winter off,but no!

PostPost by: alan.barker » Mon Aug 08, 2016 4:43 pm

For the filler leak don't forget the Mazda MX5 non return valve fitted in the filler neck stops leaks
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Aug 08, 2016 6:38 pm

For the filler leak don't forget the Mazda MX5 non return valve fitted in the filler neck reduces leaks
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Aug 09, 2016 1:02 am

It seems like you have done this mod to your +2 :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Aug 09, 2016 5:08 am

Correct.. :P

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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Tue Aug 09, 2016 5:47 am

Okay . . . I'll bite . . . what is the Mazda MX5 non-return valve mod you dangle before us . . . ? :? :shock: :roll: :wink:

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Aug 09, 2016 5:58 am

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Aug 09, 2016 6:55 am

You beat me to it John :wink:
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PostPost by: vxah » Fri Aug 26, 2016 7:35 am

Sorted the fuel/temp gauge issue!! It was not a voltage spike shutting down the electronic stabilizer, it was a rubbish ebay stabilizer!
I noticed that the fuel gauge showed slightly more fuel when the engine was running than sitting with the ignition on so I spent an hour or so upside down with my head behind the dash trying to fish out the stabiliser! When I did get to it the ground wire fell off! Further inspection showed that the solder flux used seems to have corroded through the wire just inside the plastic box case of the unit. I bought a new spiyda design stabilizer and fitted that,
works perfectly now!
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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Fri Aug 26, 2016 4:55 pm

Tiny device , that Spiyda Design . . . I suppose all solid state regulators are.

But a question: the device needs a heat sink. On their website, Spiyda Designs of course suggests it be attached firmly to the metal firewall. Wondering what you did for heat sinking? Or anyone else? Lots of cheap pc based aluminum heat sinks available . . . ?

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PostPost by: vxah » Tue Aug 30, 2016 7:17 am

I tested the unit first holding the metal tag in my fingers and there was no heat generated that I could feel but, I guess the most current will be used with a full tank of fuel and an engine temperature in the red! So, I made up a wavy strip of aluminium and fitted the transistor to that, I fixed the other end to the back of the dash panel along with a ground wire.
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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:44 pm

Interesting. Thanks.

I'm now especially aware of heat behind the dash as I'm following this discussion below on car fires. :shock:

lotuselan-plus2-f51/makes-want-fit-plumbed-fire-supression-t37869-15.html#p260353

Regards,

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PostPost by: elanner » Tue Aug 30, 2016 9:43 pm

I built my stabilizer using a LM2940T-10 and a couple of capacitors in an old indicator flasher can, bolting the stabilizer chip to the inside of the can, which acts as a heat sink.

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Aug 31, 2016 5:30 am

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282154687378? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Doesn't say if it has the smoothing input and output capacitors though...

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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Wed Aug 31, 2016 8:44 pm

Great suggestions. And the chap on ebay rebuilding original regulators also does a new generic version too, if you don't want to send your original to him.

Also various discussions online regarding what devices to use in making a solid state replacement yourself, as suggested by Nick . . .

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/thre ... it.131699/

John, you're suggesting caps because a car's dc is a little "rough"? Wondering if Nick used capicators to smooth out the pulse in the dc . . . ?
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PostPost by: elanner » Wed Aug 31, 2016 8:57 pm

Yeah - I tried to fit the chip and capacitors into an original case but couldn't do it, which is why I settled for an indicator flasher can.

I included input & output capacitors because that's what the data sheet for the stabiliser chip calls for. They probably do keep the output more stable but I doubt that has any effect on the behaviour of the gauge. Don't forget that the original bi-metallic stabiliser simply switches between 0v and 12-14v with a duty cycle that averages to 10v, so is about as unsmooth as it's possible to be. The slow responding mechanism of the gauge itself hides the wild voltage swings.

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