Lotus Elan

What did you do to your Lotus today...

PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Sun Oct 02, 2022 10:39 pm

I refurbished my main lamp switch!

I scrapped the head lamp and flasher use of the switch fifty years ago and repurposed it as a reversing lamp control then rear fog lamp (when I grafted a switch on the gearbox) but it became unreliable some years ago and so did the side/parking lamp section recently. Dismantling required some metal bending to separate the toggle from the connectors and apart from the contact patches only the "headlamp" copper strip was corroded but all cleaned up with 120 grit paper. But reassembly of the flying contacts was a bitch!

Lamp switch flying contacts 219_9690.JPG and
The unhooked flying contacts
Half the lamp switch insides 219_9688.JPG and
One of the flying contacts on the toggle plate.

They may look innocuous but fall off easily and don't want to hook back on, especially against the spring. Then, once both are fitted stably, they have to be separated a little while being inserted back into the fixed contact/connector section.

I haven't fitted it back in the car yet but measured the contact pairs and they were all stable low resistances.
Meg

26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
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PostPost by: ajwheels » Thu Oct 06, 2022 11:28 pm

Swapped out the shift lever for one with a more appropriate length and bend.....

Before:
Sft Lvr Before.jpg and


After:
Sft Lvr After.JPG and
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Oct 10, 2022 4:17 pm

Spotted 0256K at AutoSport Designs today in Huntington, had to go back with my 0260k to get a picture:
IMG_8875.JPG and
Lemon & Lime....

IMG_8876.JPG and
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PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Mon Oct 10, 2022 9:51 pm

pharriso wrote:Spotted 0256K at AutoSport Designs today in Huntington, had to go back with my 0260k to get a picture:


Who owns 0256K, Phil? I presume it's the yellow Sprint.
Meg

26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Oct 10, 2022 10:04 pm

Quart Meg Miles wrote:
pharriso wrote:Spotted 0256K at AutoSport Designs today in Huntington, had to go back with my 0260k to get a picture:


Who owns 0256K, Phil? I presume it's the yellow Sprint.


Yes the yellow Sprint, not sure yet... I am in contact with the new owner, I am sure he will introduce himself here before too long. :D
Last edited by pharriso on Tue Oct 11, 2022 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: alaric » Tue Oct 11, 2022 12:25 am

I went for a drive in my +2 for the first time in a few months. Brakes are much better with the .75" master cylinder. Cooling system is working really well with the re-cored rad and new thermostat. Ignition system seems to be working. No sign of a dead spot in the carbs, although they were out of balance after I'd fitted the air box. It does seem to take off when it hits 6k rpm, which means 7k arrives very quickly. I'm going to have to try to avoid that, but it doesn't seem to run out of power. I think rolling road is calling us...

Regards

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PostPost by: DamianB » Mon Oct 17, 2022 6:42 pm

I started to get to know my new S3 (WAR 540E) a little better and to start to knocking some items of my fast-extending snagging list.

1. Off went some like-new but 15 year old Yokohamas and on went the Michelin XAS FF that are so strongly recommended here
IMG_2157.jpg and
Before - Yokos
IMG_2384.jpg and
After - Michelin XAS FF


2. I got to inspect the front suspension properly. Very clean under here and previous owner has done a lovely job. But like the tyres the rubber components are showing their age and I guess I need to prepare to switch out all the old bushes etc. I guess the shock absorbers are Avos (please correct me if you know better).
IMG_2334.jpg and
IMG_2341.jpg and

IMG_2346.jpg and
IMG_2340.jpg and


3. Lovely at the back too, with Hooke's jointed drive and adjustable spring bases
IMG_2348.jpg and
IMG_2365.jpg and


4. In the cabin I took the door card off and dismantled the locking mechanism before discovering that the cause of the infuriating self-locking driver's door was that the child-lock mechanism was set :oops:

5.I had less success on the passenger side where I failed to work out how to adjust the top nylon door hinge. The access hole by the top adjustment bolts just seems too small to get any sort of socket in there. Even after I had cut lots of different lengths of 1/4" square rod. Any tips?
IMG_2388.jpg and


6. Checking out the ignition. No visible markings but it looks like an Aldon Ignitor I to me. Please let me know if you think I am wrong

IMG_2392.jpg and

7. Last thing. Engine seems to be running very rich, with oily smuts on the rear bodywork (I even found some on the rear view mirror!) and black oiled plugs. Seems like I need a trip to a rolling road and a look at the jets

Air corrector: 130
Emulsion: F16
Main: 125
Idle: 50F6
Pump: 35
Not sure yet what Cams or chokes I have in there.

ps. I'm a newbie here, so please don't be shy to tell me if I'm posting this kind of stuff in the wrong place, or if there is a better way to contribute.
Last edited by DamianB on Tue Oct 18, 2022 6:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Oct 17, 2022 10:24 pm

The doors pivot on Nylon threaded plugs, which are dome shaped where they fit into hemispherical sockets at top & bottom of the door aperture {number 3 in diagram below}. There is also a lock-nut which you have to undo first {number 4 in diagram below}, before you can rotate the nylon pivot. The other end of the nylon plug is flat(ish) with a square deep indentation in it; this takes a square rod, I think 1/4 inch but not sure. be sure to get a good fit in there because if you use a square rod that is too small, you may wreck the square indentation and you will then have a REAL PROBLEM to get it out.

It's a while since I did anything to mine, but I seem to recall using a longish square rod and fitting into a ratcheting socket set and then using the BOTTOM aperture in the door to unscrew the upper nylon plug. The lock-nut uses a normal socket to undo it, though you will need extension rods on your socket set to reach it via the bottom aperture.

Both top & bottom holders {number 2 in diagram} for the nylon pivot also have adjusting bolts that hold the fitting for the nylon pivot to the door. DON'T undo those if you can avoid it because they control the 'fit' of the door in the body and it is difficult & tedious to get it right again if you disturb the fit.


House interior door handles seem to have the right-size square rod.

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36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
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PostPost by: mbell » Tue Oct 18, 2022 1:05 am

Technically it was Saturday but went on a drive, 265 miles with local lotus owners. I am the only one draft enough to turn up in a classic but I can almost keep up with them.
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'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: DamianB » Tue Oct 18, 2022 6:15 am

Thank you @BillWill for your useful advice on tackling door hinges. The tip to attack the top hinge via the bottom access hole looks like what I needed. I was just being lazy and hoping I could do the job without removing the passenger door card, and doing everything via the normally-exposed top access hole. My mistake.

I had previously discovered the many postings about NOT TOUCHING the bolts securing the cast top and bottom holders. It was very tempting, but I managed to resist.
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PostPost by: smo17003 » Tue Oct 18, 2022 1:47 pm

When I stripped down the seats on my S4 a few years ago a 1962 Swiss 5 Rappen coin (very similar to an old sixpence) fell out from between the cushion and the seat back. The seats are now back in the car having been retrimmed. Today I pushed the same coin back into the seat, where hopefully it will remain for another 50 or so years. :D
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Sat Oct 22, 2022 7:04 pm

A95D6722-691B-4B82-9347-51FE777B58E1.jpeg and


Actually, not today, but 2 days ago. Another trip around my favourite roads in Snowdonia.
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PostPost by: The Veg » Fri Oct 28, 2022 3:50 am

Fitted replacement sill-members in my Plus 2. I got the stainless ones from SJ. They differ slightly in design to the original items, most notably in their lower edges being straight instead of curved. Those edges do not come with the holes drilled them either, but it was easy enough to make a cardboard template for the holes from the old members. They went in a lot more easily than the old ones came out. I still need to put the interiour back together and refurbish the closing-panels before installing them, but that, as Edd China says, is a project for another day.
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PostPost by: david.g.chapman » Fri Nov 11, 2022 7:00 pm

I put my engine back in after fitting a new 8.5 inch clutch.

It was quite a struggle getting engine and gearbox to mate. The bellhousing and engine block flanges looked parallel, but I could not get any closer than 3/4 inch away (input shaft fouling on pilot bearing). I had to raise the engine up to check I had not damaged the pilot bearing after one hour of shaking about and up and down on the engine crane and the gearbox jack.

Then the penny dropped. I found the best indicator that the engine and gearbox was actually in line was looking at the ring gear. I found with my setup that the ring gear has to be parallel with the bellhousing flange as well - that could easily apply to most other elans and +2s. In my case I was actually a good 2mm out. To get a better alignment I had to get the gearbox as high as it would go, and drop the engine down so it was scraping on the chassis. Rohan's excellent thread on the subject mentions the gearbox positioning.

In my case not having a tilting mechanism on the crane made things harder, but not impossible, as after a few more minutes of heaving, the engine slid forward into the 5mm gap postion and I was able to carefully draw engine and gearbox on the 4 lower connecting bolts. I even managed to remember the interface plate! Result!

Cheers,

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Nov 11, 2022 7:43 pm

While the Engine is out to reduce oil leaks i've removed the Gearbox.
Never ever done a Gearbox before. I think it's the first time for my Sprint also.
I was getting rumbling noises when driving.
Already fitted TTR Propshaft so it's not that. I can see play on Input Shaft bearing movement front to back. Lipseal on Tailshaft gone hard also. Order been placed at TTR and enjoying the tinkering.
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