Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

+1 to what Phil wrote.

If the pistons are seized, then if you do push them back and fit new pads, then chances are when you first use the brakes they will stick on.

1. Firstly take the top off the master cylinder to stop fluid spraying everywhere when you push the pistons back and fluid returns into the reservoir.
2. Remove wheel and remove pad retainer pins.
3. Remove one pad and then using broad blade screwdrive or tyre lever using disc as pivot lever/push piston back into caliper. Remove other pad and do the same with the other piston.

No need to buy any other tools or undo bleed nipples. Note if you start undoing bleed nipples you will need to fully bleed the system after the pad change.

Alan

If the pads are well worn, and will be replaced anyway, I usually do the chisel/screwdriver trick before removing the pad. You can actually see the gap increasing so you will know there's some movement at the piston.
If I wanted to keep the old pads, after removal, I would try and use an old pad backing (minus the friction material) as it also protects the piston against potential damage. Yes, I've seen caliper pistons and seals that have been "butchered" by over-enthusiastic use of pry bars etc.

Changing disc pads is a basic DIY car maintenance job on any car.
Please don't take this the wrong way but if you are struggling to do this or are in danger of butchering piston seals or anything else connected with the brakes then please get someone else more car maintenance savvy to do it for you. Your life in an emergency braking situation may depend on it!

Alan.

alanr wrote:Changing disc pads is a basic DIY car maintenance job on any car.
Please don't take this the wrong way but if you are struggling to do this or are in danger of butchering piston seals or anything else connected with the brakes then please get someone else more car maintenance savvy to do it for you. Your life in an emergency braking situation may depend on it!

Alan.

No problem/offence taken - well used to cycle maintenance but can't believe everything seems to have its particular issues on the Elan, so just checking I am not being dull - and yes, I may well take it to a garage after all! Update - pads changed - I just needed to be 'stronger' encouraging pads back. ta.

Lifted the body off my plus 2. First time in around 30 years. Time for a clean up and paint touch up of chassis and strip, inspect and rebuild of the suspension and steering. I probably will not make much progress in the next few months but hope to get into it more seriously later this year.

Jacked it up until I could slide a couple of beams under the body above the chassis


and then lifted with chain blocks from roof rafters.



Chassis in good condition, just needs a clean up, the Australian climate is kind to cars




it would have been easier on the MaxJax but that side of the garage is for the Elan and Trailer





cheers
Rohan

All I've done recently is to re-varnish me knob !

alanr wrote:
No need to buy any other tools or undo bleed nipples. Note if you start undoing bleed nipples you will need to fully bleed the system after the pad change.

Alan

While technically correct, it is the fluid in the caliper that seems to suffer the worst. Heat, rust, possible moisture ingress past the seals. Rather than squirting grotty fluid back up into the system, I usually release the bleed nipple and discard the fluid displaced by pushing the piston back. Propping the brake pedal partway down with a block of wood stops any fluid going back into the master cylinder. I don't think it is necessary, but since I already have the wheel off, and a spanner and pipe on the nipple I do give the caliper a quick bleed while I am at it.

Took delivery of these:



And will mount them with these;


one each of Michelin XAS FF 155
Michelin XAS FF 165
Avon CR6ZZ 175/70
Pirelli CN36 175/70

and we'll see what works best.
I'll post the results in a different thread once done

661 wrote:Took delivery of these:

wheels.jpg

And will mount them with these;

tyres.jpg

one each of Michelin XAS FF 155
Michelin XAS FF 165
Avon CR6ZZ 175/70
Pirelli CN36 175/70

and we'll see what works best.
I'll post the results in a different thread once done

With that combination, You might find it pulls to one side under braking!

Did the strip down on the 5 speed box to replace 4 the gear bulk ring.

Andy8421 wrote:

661 wrote:Took delivery of these:

wheels.jpg

And will mount them with these;

tyres.jpg

one each of Michelin XAS FF 155
Michelin XAS FF 165
Avon CR6ZZ 175/70
Pirelli CN36 175/70

and we'll see what works best.
I'll post the results in a different thread once done

With that combination, You might find it pulls to one side under braking!

I would be more concerned with different rotation under power L & R. But, the tyres should be soft and low enough pressure the diff may not care

one each of Michelin XAS FF 155
Michelin XAS FF 165
Avon CR6ZZ 175/70
Pirelli CN36 175/70

That Is a thousand pounds worth just to try!!! I think I will stick with my very nice handling £55 each ones!! D

I can't believe you are really going to mix 4 different tyres on one car? I think you are just trying to wind us up!
The handling would be just terrible!

Alan

TBG wrote:one each of Michelin XAS FF 155
Michelin XAS FF 165
Avon CR6ZZ 175/70
Pirelli CN36 175/70

That Is a thousand pounds worth just to try!!! I think I will stick with my very nice handling £55 each ones!! D

Ha!
I shan't be driving on them, it's to check fit. They haven't been balanced.
They are all on sale or return with Longstone (Legends) and will get a full set of the preferred ones.
As for price, over 40 years of ownership I've tried many sets, often on the recommendation of Pat Thomas.
My experience is that you can't pay too much for the only thing that holds you on the black stuff. Especially now that my son drives the car quite a bit.
I haven't found the Rain Experts very confidence inspiring, but to be fair to them, the rear toe was non existent. That is now all sorted.