Lotus Elan

What did you do to your Lotus today...

PostPost by: elanner » Thu Apr 15, 2021 12:50 pm

1owner69Elan wrote:Looking at fan switches that insert the probe into the radiator fins. I have one from Derale but don't like defacing my expensive radiator with the probe insertion. Also, my radiator is so deep that the probe does not extend all the way through to allow it to be secured on its end, as designed.


Last year I had my standard radiator recored and the company that did it begged me to not insert a temperature probe into the fins, which is what I had been doing before. The inserted probe had always worked fine but I never liked the idea much anyway.

My solution was to make a holder for the probe that allows it to lie flat against the radiator. The holder is P shaped as shown in the sad little drawing below. The probe is a tight fit in O of the P and the leg of the P has slots in it which are spaced to fit between the water channels in the radiator. Obviously, the flat areas of the leg sit between the fins. It's made of aluminium and painted black. Copper would probably be better but I didn't have anything on hand so decided to mock the idea up with some spare ally that I had. The mock up became permanent.

The teeth are long enough so that they fit through the full thickness of the radiator and can be lightly bent on the other side to ensure that the holder doesn't vibrate out.

Everything fits very snugly and it works perfectly.

Nick
Probe-holder.png and

Temp-probe-holder-1.jpg and

Temp-probe-holder-2.jpg and
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PostPost by: baileyman » Thu Apr 15, 2021 4:53 pm

I suppose a little insulation could make it track the heat of the radiator better. John
Last edited by baileyman on Sat Apr 17, 2021 2:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Thu Apr 15, 2021 9:00 pm

I removed the wheels from a rolling floor jack, welded under the front of the deck.
So you need to put the car in gear, and use e-brake. Get out, and lower the trailer. Not as easy as this, and if you set the jack just off fully tight. Once weight is applied, it tilts on its own.
They have electric jacks now a days too, which one could control remotely.
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PostPost by: Elseezed » Thu Apr 15, 2021 10:00 pm

IMG_1024.JPG and
Access to leaking fuel pump

Half filled petrol tank, ready for a run out, +2 had other ideas. Found fuel dripping onto the floor. All connections ok, found it was coming from bottom of pump.
Just reading up on service kits at moment. Will update in 'fuel' section anon.
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PostPost by: elanner » Thu Apr 15, 2021 10:51 pm

baileyman wrote:I suppose a little insulation could make it track the heat of the radiator better. John


Yes, that was the second step of my plan but it hasn't been necessary. Or making it in copper, or with more teeth, or mount it on the rear of the radiator.

I imagine the probe runs a few degrees cooler than when pushed directly through the radiator but the thermostat has an adjustment that allowed me to take this into account when setting it up. According to the dashboard temperature gauge it starts running at the same temperature as before - I set it to 90c.

There's obviously no reason why it shouldn't work just fine, which is why I made it in the first place, but I have to admit that I was surprised by how effective it is. Of course, the standard approach of pushing the probe through the radiator fins doesn't exactly win any prizes for design elegance. :-)

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PostPost by: steve lyle » Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:43 am

During our last long drive this pas fall, two issues came up: 1) the driver's wiper blade "slipped" - it would sometimes park way high, sometimes way low; and 2) the squealing of the heater blower motor, always an issue, became a show stopper. Plus, the passenger heat was significantly less than the driver's, for unknown reasons.

So the current project is to go after both those issues. To date, the dash is out. I've taken the heater box and motor apart, cleaned and lubed the motor, and reassembled. Motor spins easily, and quietly now. Unfortunately, I also striped the grub screw threads on the fan, so I'll try rethreading up one size.

Many thanks to JonB - his post of a couple of years ago clarified how the motor should go back together.

Still to do - get the wiper mechanism out, and figure out what's wrong. I thought maybe the gear box had come unbolted, but nope, that's not it. Maybe something wrong with the cable? Or broken teeth on the gears? Will know more tomorrow.

IMG_0374.JPG and


Pretty amazing how much junk gets sucked into the box over 49 years or so...

IMG_0373.JPG and
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PostPost by: Andy8421 » Fri Apr 16, 2021 5:50 am

steve lyle wrote:During our last long drive this pas fall, two issues came up: 1) the driver's wiper blade "slipped" - it would sometimes park way high, sometimes way low

Still to do - get the wiper mechanism out, and figure out what's wrong. I thought maybe the gear box had come unbolted, but nope, that's not it. Maybe something wrong with the cable? Or broken teeth on the gears? Will know more tomorrow.

Unless the wiper arm is slipping on the shaft where it sticks out in front of the screen, the most likely culprit is that the teeth have worn on the wheelbox gear (the other end of the shaft that holds the wiper) that engages with the cable and coiled spring rack that oscillates back and forth from the motor. The cheap fix is to turn the gear 180 degrees as only half the gear ever gets used, but given the grief involved in taking the dash out I would replace it. I would also replace the wheelbox on the other wiper and strip and service the motor and gearbox.

Good luck.
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Fri Apr 16, 2021 10:31 am

Andy8421 wrote:[Unless the wiper arm is slipping on the shaft where it sticks out in front of the screen, the most likely culprit is that the teeth have worn on the wheelbox gear (the other end of the shaft that holds the wiper) that engages with the cable and coiled spring rack that oscillates back and forth from the motor. The cheap fix is to turn the gear 180 degrees as only half the gear ever gets used, but given the grief involved in taking the dash out I would replace it. I would also replace the wheelbox on the other wiper and strip and service the motor and gearbox.

Good luck.


Sounds like a good plan.

Oddly enough, it didn't bother me much to have to take the dash out - at least there were multiple reasons to do it. A couple of hours and it was done - the biggest pain is draining the coolant to get the temp sensor out - that's always a mess with this radiator, that has no drain - so I just have to pull the lower hose and hope my catch basin gets most of it (it never does).
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1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
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PostPost by: baileyman » Fri Apr 16, 2021 11:12 am

Could it be a the cover on the wiper gearbox is loose, rotating, and changing the park location? John
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:13 am

It turns out the fan grub screw is a #10, so I got a 1/4” one, drill and tap, and upgraded. Motor works great now. I’ll take the time to paint the box while it’s out, and I’m waiting for parts.

1F42FC4A-5CEA-4A33-9BB6-CFBAD22418E8.jpeg and


And I’ll need parts to fix the wiper - the problem is worn teeth on the wheel. The wear is subtle when looking at the wheel, but you can see the worn material from the wheel deposited on the drive cable.

7487301C-917B-4E20-BF8B-B7298217A18C.jpeg and
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1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:20 am

That's not just ancient grease on the cable?
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Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow

Formerly:
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Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Sat Apr 17, 2021 3:30 am

steve lyle wrote:
- the biggest pain is draining the coolant to get the temp sensor out - that's always a mess with this radiator, that has no drain - so I just have to pull the lower hose and hope my catch basin gets most of it (it never does).


I have the same issue with my TTR radiator. Pulling the lower hose off to drain it creates a huge mess. Can’t position a catch basin/funnel properly.
Next time I’m going to try tying an open plastic bag around the lower radiator opening to try and catch the runoff. The bag should be able to conform to the available space and allow the coolant to be directed into the bag.
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Sat Apr 17, 2021 10:07 am

bitsobrits wrote:That's not just ancient grease on the cable?


Nope, it's tinted the same color as the wheel, and the tint is only in the area where the cable drives the wheel.
Steve Lyle
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
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PostPost by: 74Twincam » Wed Apr 21, 2021 11:19 pm

Today I believe I've found the last of the mice who gave their lives in the confines of my car- I think that comes up to 12 or so in total, after this car sat for several years. This may take care of some of the old, musty "vintage" car smell...
The good news is the lattice frame inside the sills is in fantastic condition, so after a good cleaning, I can get back to installing the new carpeting. Just need to figure out how to cleverly locate the screws in the side panel boards as they go back on.
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Carpeting out
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Sill Mouse
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Apr 26, 2021 2:33 pm

Just finished up my Cylinder Head change & engine bay tidy up from over the winter :D :D :D
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Time to take her out for an Italian Tune-Up!
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