New mot rule

PostPost by: Concrete-crusher » Fri May 04, 2018 6:58 am

Hi does anyone know exactly how the new mot rule implemented

I mistakingly thought it was from the 1st of may so because my mot has just expired went to 2 post offices to complete an exemption

The first post office had no idea at all and suggested I go to a main town post office

The main town post office also had no idea and suggested I phone Dvla

The main post office did have a V112 form but it only referees to pre 1960 cars , the same with the DVLC web site version , so not appropriate for our cars

Is a new form plus training etc coming to post offices in the next two weeks ? Or have I got it wrong and don?t need to do anything . pS my car tax was done 1st April when there was 1 months mot left

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PostPost by: normand » Fri May 04, 2018 7:51 am

New rules start May 20th, had my MG tested yesterday,Garage has to replace emissions tester for new regulations at cost of ?10K so has put his prices up by ?5 , says he doesnt expect to see me again!
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri May 04, 2018 8:06 am

As I read, you declare the car Historic MOT Exempt when you tax it on the DVLA web site. As we do not pay for tax, I would think it would be OK to declare SORN for a day or two, then tax it again, clicking the MOT exemption check box.

That is my plan, anyway!
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PostPost by: jimj » Fri May 04, 2018 8:17 am

Imagine; it`s 2025 and you`re looking at buying one of 2 similar classic cars at a similar price. Both in similar condition but one has had an MOT every year even though the car was exempt, but it`s ?350 more. The other hasn`t. Which one would you buy?
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Fri May 04, 2018 8:31 am

I hope you're going to be giving both cars a close examination by jacking up, checking closely with pointy implements for corrosion. Checking all suspension for play in bushes and joints by pushing and pulling, (which is all the MOT testers I have ever watched do). When you are satisfied with the condition of suspension then take a test drive and make sure the car stops well and in a straight line.
If satisfied you then barter the price down by another ?500 or so because the car that the owner has meticulously maintained has not been MOTD,
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri May 04, 2018 9:07 am

Guys, the OP asked about the new MOT procedure, not the morality or otherwise of following it.

However... My car had a long MOT when I bought it but every joint in the front suspension was shot (ball joints, trunnions, track rod ends), the bushes (all round) were knackered, and the nearside rear wheel bearing was so bad you could hear the shaft clunking when you went over a bump (this needed a new shaft and bearings to fix it). While I agree an MOT is better than none in the eyes of a buyer, it shouldn't be relied upon to inform a purchasing decision. In my case it was mandatory so I could drive the car home, but as soon as I did I had the suspension apart to do the joints and I was pretty horrified at what I discovered. Put simply, it should not have passed its last test.

So while I am not planning on continuing with the annual charade of MOT-ing the car, if and when I sell it I will do it.
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PostPost by: jono » Fri May 04, 2018 10:33 am

From 20th May you need to apply to have your car registered as a Vehicle of Historic Interest (as distinct from the current tax designation of Historic Vehicle). Then your are exempt from MOT.

This can be done at your local PO but don't be surprised if they give you a blank stare.

If you don't register then the MOT requirement will continue.

The car needs to be free from significant modifications in order to qualify. No definition provided but I would imagine a Spyder chassis is okay but a full Spyder Zetec conversion not.

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PostPost by: MarkDa » Fri May 04, 2018 11:47 am

I also think that you'll probably want to check with your insurance company that they will still pay up without one.
Some say must have MoT and whilst they should be up to speed it's better to ask the question first (or spend ?50) rather than when you want ?20k from them!
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri May 04, 2018 12:08 pm

Good point in the insurance Mark, I forgot about that!
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PostPost by: JimE » Fri May 04, 2018 12:11 pm

MarkDa wrote:I also think that you'll probably want to check with your insurance company that they will still pay up without one.
Some say must have MoT and whilst they should be up to speed it's better to ask the question first (or spend ?50) rather than when you want ?20k from them!

I would very much doubt the legality of insurer's insisting on MoT to validate your insurance in the event of a pay out. They would fail miserably in court.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Fri May 04, 2018 12:38 pm

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PostPost by: MarkDa » Fri May 04, 2018 12:41 pm

Talk of going to court makes my point about checking with insurer sooner rather than later.
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PostPost by: William2 » Fri May 04, 2018 3:57 pm

I think there are a few grey areas with regard to changes to a vehicle. For instance my S4 is fitted with Tony Thompson fast road dampers/springs which doesn't really fit in with any of the criteria defined by the DVLA. Other changes I have such as Roll bar, solid driveshafts and wider alloy radiator could all legitimately be classed as improving safety and efficiency as per the DVLA guidelines of allowable changes.
My main concern would be an insurance company not paying out due to a single change not being acceptable to the DVLA.
I have to wonder whether the whole topic has been formalised between DVLA and insurance companies, especially knowing how insurers don't like paying out unless they have to!!
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PostPost by: Elanman68 » Fri May 04, 2018 4:17 pm

Well my Spyder Chassis was fitted more than 30 years ago so it would seem to be exempt from the definition of 'substantial change' regardless.
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PostPost by: Concrete-crusher » Fri May 04, 2018 5:39 pm

Thanks guys I think Jon?s suggestion works , do a sorn now and then retax it after the 20th declaring at that time it?s mot excemption

Cheers Steve
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