Dynamat

PostPost by: Tahoe » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:05 pm

I'm currently stripping my interior completely to do repairs in the side sill areas (triangulated structure). After the repair I want to refurbish the interior. I've read the thread on Sartos paint, and also read a few threads of those who have used the Dynamat. I was wondering if anyone has used Dynaliner instead of the Dynamat. It's thinner and lighter and was thinking of trying it in the interior, and also inside the roof of the hardtop followed by the headliner..

Since I'll be at the SEMA show in 2 weeks I'll stop by to see them, and search for any other potential solutions from other manufactures. I have all Winter to get it done so I want to come up with the best solution I can.
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PostPost by: nomad » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:03 am

Russ if you are a cheap skate like me consider the stick on heater duct insulation sold at any home depot. Personally I would like to see a comprehensive comparison between the duct insulation and the high priced stuff. I've used the duct insulation and it makes a difference for penny's on the dollar!

Try to get your template one of these days. It rained here but not enough to really give us a break.

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PostPost by: robertverhey » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:20 am

Anyone used closed cell foam as used in yoga/sleeping mats? I spent a fortune on a pack of dynamat, it's quite heavy. I guess there may be flammability issues with closed cell? Then again I used it on the chassis "saddle".....
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PostPost by: jfornarola » Thu Oct 23, 2014 2:37 am

On my '67 S3 I used a combination of the following:
Latex paint with micro balloon. This is a $5.00 a gallon mistake color mix exterior latex paint picked up at the local hardware store. The micro balloon comes from Aircraft Spruce. 1 lb will cost about $20.00 including shipping as I recall. Mix by hand so as not to crush the glass spheres.

Take 1/4 gallon of the paint and mix in the micro balloon until you're happy with the consistency. BE CAREFULL. The micro balloon will do nasty things to your lungs so make sure you're protected.

My mix came out to about 4oz of micro balloon to about 1/4 gallon of paint. Be prepared - you may need a 1 gallon container to fit this all in.
The micro balloon adds air pockets (for lack of a better way to put it). The trapped air helps with heat insulation and maybe a little vibration resistance.

I painted most of the front half of the cockpit with this including the firewall. I stopped just in front of the seats. I also painted the rear cockpit area around the diff. Use thin coats. One or two is all that's needed. Total weight is about 3 to 4 pounds.

RAAMaudio - Rammat. I used this where I expected the most heat. So, it's applied to the firewall and first 6 to 8 inches of transmission tunnel and floor on the exhaust side. It is heavy so I used it selectively. I placed this on top of the paint mix described above.

There's a comparison of several products here: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-te ... rison.html

Closed cell foam. 3/8" wrapped over the backbone before the body was lowered into place. This really makes for a nice snug fit and reduces vibration.

I have a ceramic coated header and custom stainless exhaust and no cockpit heat issues. I also have no noise issues inside the car. With the top up its relatively quiet. From the outside and to the rear it's a different story.

I didn't do anything special to save weight and this car with no top but with about 1/2 tank of gas comes in at 1495 lbs.
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PostPost by: Tahoe » Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:06 pm

Good information. Thanks!
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