Lotus Elan

Drive shafts

PostPost by: micky p » Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:52 am

Any one know the best place in the south to buy solid c/v drive shafts for a Elan s4 SE and how much they might be, are they a hard job to fit
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PostPost by: pereirac » Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:19 pm

Susan Miller does mail order, cost is around ?500 for a pair otherwise there is Tony Thompson. Spyder used to do a hybrid drive with one UJ and one donut if you don't want to go all the way. The is also and Australian company who produces solid driveshafts but they seem to be a lot more expensive?

I gather (since I still have rubber donuts) that fitting is pretty straightforward if:

1. The 'arms' on the half-shafts are not twisted so that the mounting holes all line up with the new driveshaft mounting plate holes, Metal plates are not as 'flexible' as rubber rings.
2, If you have a Sprint with fail-safe couplings (which stop the half shafts flying around if the donut fails) you need to grind out the welded tubes on the half-shafts. I gather this can be done in situ with a grinder (with care)..

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PostPost by: ElanSeries2 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:06 pm

Sorry, Pereirac, but I think this is not the case. I am pretty sure Sue has given rights/drawings to the CV driveshafts to Kelvedon Motors - see their website, Micky P.

They advertise kits for Elan and +2, although I am interested in the +2 kit. They have been out of stock for a while, although they have had some components in, so worth giving them a call. There has been some debate about whether this CV kit is ok to run on an Elan because of the higher driveshaft angles (higher than in the +2, or any other CV install for that matter) and hence binding of the CVs on full droop. I really don't know whether this has been resolved yet - Elan owners chip in - but in all other respects, the kit is well regarded.

I am hoping the job is pretty easy, although I am struggling with my +2 at the moment!! This is mainly due to trying to attempt too many jobs at once (rear spring kit for 2.25 springs, new dampers, new driveshafts...)

I'll report back next week - I keep meaning to start a "this is me" thread, but procrastination rules!
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PostPost by: adigra » Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:54 pm

I have had the Susan MIller ones and currently have the Spyder half solid ones fitted. Both were roughly similar price, around ?500. They are straightforward to fit, but getting the bolts in can be fiddly.

I found the full solid ones to be too harsh for my liking. The Spyder ones, as mentioned above, have one doughnut per side and one solid joint, so there is some of the cushioning retained in the drivetrain. They also have a failsafe coupling to prevent the shafts ripping your car apart should a doughnut fail.

With either solution it's recommended to fit an anti-droop solution as when the car is jacked up it can damage the CVs.
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PostPost by: roblotus79 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:26 pm

The Australian ones from Elantrickbits(?) state that they do not bind and do not need droop limiters.

The other option (that I have) is the kit from RD Enterprises in the USA. It is a full CV conversion on both ends and comes with new diff output shafts. This was good for me as I had original mild steel ones. Their kit is $1500ish. Oh, you need to order the diff bearings separately.

Cheers

Rob

P.S. Just got back from thrashing mine, I mean enjoying, in a serious way. Spring has arrived in Vancouver!
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PostPost by: pereirac » Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:11 am

ElanSeries2 wrote:Sorry, Pereirac, but I think this is not the case. I am pretty sure Sue has given rights/drawings to the CV driveshafts to Kelvedon Motors - see their website, Micky P.


She still has them advertised on her website? Last time I heard, she was remaking them but would only sell them (for the Elan) is you had drop limiters in place?

Seems Kelvedon motors are keeping their options open as they are selling both cv and uj versions (and donuts) :D

http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_details.asp?PartID=285&categoryID=25&PartsectionID=27

http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_details.asp?PartID=420&categoryID=25&PartsectionID=27

Given they are both the same price... which one is better .. LOL :D

It would be interesting to take a vote and see what the majority of people are using....

Donuts, CV, UJ or Mixture

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PostPost by: adigra » Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:40 am

It could be entirely possible that both Kelvedon and Sue source their CV parts either complete or in components from the same place. I know that many Kelsport branded products are bought in rather than specifically made for them.

One thing I should probably add about the Sue Miller solid driveshafts was that their outer metal casing corroded very quickly left unpainted. Nothing serious, but if I got a set again I'd paint them.

And this is the link to the Spyder ones I have. They actually end up a bit more expensive once you add the doughnuts to the total.

http://www.spydercars.co.uk/lotus-elan-2-final-drive/
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PostPost by: silverlink » Sat Apr 19, 2014 11:09 am

Last time I spoke with Sue Miller (around one month ago) she informed me she had given all rights to her CV driveshafts to Kelvedon Motors. I really do fancy some of these but its the extra cost of having to purchase special shocks etc to reduce droop. My car is undergoing full restoration and I have fitted new springs and very expensive adjustable Koni's.
Does anyone know how much work is required to do this shocker conversion?
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sat Apr 19, 2014 11:12 am

Hi Ian
Your Konis may already be of sufficient limited travel. The TTR supplied adjustable Konis certainly are.

cheers
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PostPost by: silverlink » Sat Apr 19, 2014 4:31 pm

Thanks for the info Rohan
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PostPost by: pharriso » Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:48 pm

adigra wrote:One thing I should probably add about the Sue Miller solid driveshafts was that their outer metal casing corroded very quickly left unpainted. Nothing serious, but if I got a set again I'd paint them.


Adi, you mean like this:
SMDriveshafts_Repainted.JPG and
Adi's old driveshafts
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PostPost by: adigra » Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:28 pm

Perfect!

I am surprised that they weren't painted or powdercoated to start with. I know it doesn't affect their function, but it's much nicer with some nice paint.
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PostPost by: silverlink » Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:00 pm

Phil,
Did you have modify your shocks when you fitted your CV's?
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PostPost by: adigra » Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:36 pm

Ian, you don't have to, just don't be jumping in the car or jacking it up allowing for the wheels to hang completely (although, technically, the CVs should be able to withstand being jacked up). The simplest way though, if you don't want to fit restricted dampers, is to fit cables which will prevent the A frames from going too far down. There have been people on the forums here who have done it in the past and I'm sure some searching will dig up results.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:51 pm

silverlink wrote:Phil,
Did you have modify your shocks when you fitted your CV's?
Ian


They are not fitted yet, I'll install travel limiting cables when I do though.
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