Greetings to all, I'm new.
20 posts
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The Veg wrote:Welcome Mike!
Post some pics of tlyour car and if you're ever in Atlanta give me a shout and we'll tell some lies over a pint or three.
I like your style.
Mike N
+2 50/1974
65 TR4A IRS
The Planning Fallacy refers to our tendency to underestimate the time it will take to complete a future task despite knowing that similar tasks have taken longer in the past.
+2 50/1974
65 TR4A IRS
The Planning Fallacy refers to our tendency to underestimate the time it will take to complete a future task despite knowing that similar tasks have taken longer in the past.
- Mike+2
- First Gear
- Posts: 36
- Joined: 14 Jan 2021
- Location: Nebraska
Mike,
We've probably crossed paths then. Besides my BRG S1, I also attend Flatwater events in my red E-type FHC and new generation Morgan three wheeler.
Lifting an Elan with a forklift is certainly a novel way of doing it. Not recommended!
Still, if they were careful (as if anyone who would use a forklift to lift a classic car could be described as careful) to get the forks all the way across the body before lifting, the exhaust may be the only casualty, as the floor/chassis is otherwise fairly flat. Of course you will want to do a thorough inspection to look for chassis or body damage.
You can jack up an Elan by the 'corners' of the floor pan (that's how I lift mine with a two post lift, btw. Nary a creak from the body), but with a floor jack I would say better to use the front crossmember and rear most part of the chassis with suitable load spreading wood blocks. Lots of posts on here, and even videos on youtube about lifting Elans.
We've probably crossed paths then. Besides my BRG S1, I also attend Flatwater events in my red E-type FHC and new generation Morgan three wheeler.
Lifting an Elan with a forklift is certainly a novel way of doing it. Not recommended!
Still, if they were careful (as if anyone who would use a forklift to lift a classic car could be described as careful) to get the forks all the way across the body before lifting, the exhaust may be the only casualty, as the floor/chassis is otherwise fairly flat. Of course you will want to do a thorough inspection to look for chassis or body damage.
You can jack up an Elan by the 'corners' of the floor pan (that's how I lift mine with a two post lift, btw. Nary a creak from the body), but with a floor jack I would say better to use the front crossmember and rear most part of the chassis with suitable load spreading wood blocks. Lots of posts on here, and even videos on youtube about lifting Elans.
Steve
Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow
Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow
Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
- bitsobrits
- Third Gear
- Posts: 433
- Joined: 27 Apr 2011
- Location: Omaha, NE area
I recently got a QuickJack lift and it works really well with the Plus 2's low ground clearance, able to lift the whole car at once to a convenient height as opposed to my floor-jack which had trouble getting under anyplace on the car and required lifting in stages at either end to get the car high-enough to work underneath.
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
-
The Veg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2411
- Joined: 16 Nov 2015
- Location: Atlanta 'burbs (southeast USA)
I too have a quick Jack that's great for the +2, but you need your sill members to be in good condition to use it.
When I first got the car I made up some spreaders our of 2*4 to lift it using a Jack and the chassis. The front is simply a length of 2 *4 that matches the front cross member width, I added some cut outs for the axle stand to sit in. The rear is much narrower, piece with two pieces of 2*4 screwed to it to make a u shape to go around the exhaust. I place it at the rear under what the rear supports join back with the chassis.
When I first got the car I made up some spreaders our of 2*4 to lift it using a Jack and the chassis. The front is simply a length of 2 *4 that matches the front cross member width, I added some cut outs for the axle stand to sit in. The rear is much narrower, piece with two pieces of 2*4 screwed to it to make a u shape to go around the exhaust. I place it at the rear under what the rear supports join back with the chassis.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2764
- Joined: 07 Jun 2013
- Location: Austin, TX (UK Ex-pat)
Was the seller New England Classic Car Company?
- ted
- First Gear
- Posts: 15
- Joined: 25 Sep 2019
- Location: Oregon, US
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