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Sploder90 wrote:My understanding was that Sue's version is now the same as Kelsport?
Yes, the design was Mick Miller's and Kelsport make them nowadays and supply Sue. So I bought mine from Sue so she'd get some of the profit.
One thing to be aware of - as is mentioned on some other threads, they can take a bit of getting used to after doughnuts. You need a good smooth clutch action and your engine needs to be smooth on the throttle, otherwise the car can get jerky on takeoff and gear changes. I'm still working on that part..
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Contrary to Jon's experience, my car was jerky on take off with doughnuts. It did not inspire confidence and I needed a larger gap to pull out into traffic than with a modern car.
All that changed with C/V shafts. Acceleration from rest and gear changes are smooth and sweet now. I have a lot more confidence that it will do what I want.
The doughnuts were not in very poor condition and I gave two of them to someone on this forum who was in need of a quick fix. The other two were just showing first signs of deterioration.
Eric in Burnley
All that changed with C/V shafts. Acceleration from rest and gear changes are smooth and sweet now. I have a lot more confidence that it will do what I want.
The doughnuts were not in very poor condition and I gave two of them to someone on this forum who was in need of a quick fix. The other two were just showing first signs of deterioration.
Eric in Burnley
- ericbushby
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I would think that the CV's could potentially show up other areas within the driveline so as / when I go that route all the other bits need to be in fine fettle.
On that note, this afternoons "little" job is the engine mounts.
Couple of frame cracks at the top chassis mounts to sort out courtesy of the mig if I can get access without taking the lump out and the mounting's themselves..
The exhaust side one is so tired it has gone for a slumber...
Kind of explains why the twink was on the wonk!
It's still better than dealing with Solihull's finest
On that note, this afternoons "little" job is the engine mounts.
Couple of frame cracks at the top chassis mounts to sort out courtesy of the mig if I can get access without taking the lump out and the mounting's themselves..
The exhaust side one is so tired it has gone for a slumber...
Kind of explains why the twink was on the wonk!
It's still better than dealing with Solihull's finest
- Sploder90
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 09 Apr 2019
Lack of compliance in the drive train with CVs means your engine needs to be well tuned. Mine is a bit temperamental at times (at others, less so) and my clutch seems to have a very sudden bite. Neither of these problems help with smooth take-offs or gear changes. Only the springs on the friction plate allow for compliance once you have converted to CV joints. Which makes me wonder if we might fabricate a rubber joint for the prop shaft as other car makers do. Swap out one of the U/Js perhaps?
My plan is to replace the clutch and cover and check the slave cylinder adjustment. I'm also planning to have a closer look at the carbs and their soft mounts when I have the engine out. I know it is possible to get a good smooth running engine, it is just a matter of finding out what's preventing this!
My plan is to replace the clutch and cover and check the slave cylinder adjustment. I'm also planning to have a closer look at the carbs and their soft mounts when I have the engine out. I know it is possible to get a good smooth running engine, it is just a matter of finding out what's preventing this!
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Some Range rover and Disco use a 6 bolt donut at the diff flange. This also has a centraliser spigot affair which you need to get out of the 3 eared pinion flange before you can get to the pinion securing nut.
The rubber disc is quite thin in comparison to a roto coupling and from memory O/D is not huge, but not sure if it would clear the frame at the pinion.
Thing is, in general with Landis the mod is the other way putting a 'standard' UJ into the drive line by changing to a 4 bolt flange.
Several kits available to do this, Paddock in the UK do a range there is even a video of how to get the spigot thing out so in theory lots of S/H 3 eared pinion knocking about... Although whether they would match the splines and dia is probably doubtful. If they did I would probably contemplate buying a lottery ticket for good measure!
Whether these or any other could be adapted???
Landrover parts and upgrades are also quite cheap. Good job because I used to break them with regularity...
Was kind of the hobby until the elan came along and saved me.
Mel
S3SE now minus head as I get to grips with a leaky water pump.. The fun never ends
The rubber disc is quite thin in comparison to a roto coupling and from memory O/D is not huge, but not sure if it would clear the frame at the pinion.
Thing is, in general with Landis the mod is the other way putting a 'standard' UJ into the drive line by changing to a 4 bolt flange.
Several kits available to do this, Paddock in the UK do a range there is even a video of how to get the spigot thing out so in theory lots of S/H 3 eared pinion knocking about... Although whether they would match the splines and dia is probably doubtful. If they did I would probably contemplate buying a lottery ticket for good measure!
Whether these or any other could be adapted???
Landrover parts and upgrades are also quite cheap. Good job because I used to break them with regularity...
Was kind of the hobby until the elan came along and saved me.
Mel
S3SE now minus head as I get to grips with a leaky water pump.. The fun never ends
- Sploder90
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 09 Apr 2019
I guess part of the reason that Spyder think that having a Rotoflex joint inboard and just a CV outboard is because it helps with a smoother take-off. It does sort of make sense when you think about it for road use?
Alan
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
- alanr
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