Anyone tried ATF + Acetone for freeing rusty bits?
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The other option is heat. Heat the outer part with a torch until its dark red, then hit it with a hammer to break the rust.
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
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billwill wrote:WD40 isn't really a releasing agent, though many people seem to think it is..
While I agree with your other statements WD40 is a very effective releasing agent...
WD-40 have a video showing it's effectiveness in loosening rusted parts here - https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/loosen-rust
BTW What did WD-40 ever due to you? You seem to be very anti WD-40
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
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pharriso wrote:BTW What did WD-40 ever due to you? You seem to be very anti WD-40
Depends whether he sniffs it or sips it
Meg
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26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
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Quart Meg Miles - Coveted Fifth Gear
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billwill wrote:I suspect that the outer tube is INSIDE the cross-member and cannot be reached that way.
It is, and if the cross member has been used as the vacuum reservoir it's probably half full of petrol !
RE WD40, Bill is technically right, it was originally developed as a water displacer for the aerospace industry, hence the WD in it's name. The 40 is reputed to have come from the fact it took them 40 attempts to perfect the formula
Regards, Tim
- Orsom Weels
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pharriso wrote:billwill wrote:WD40 isn't really a releasing agent, though many people seem to think it is..
While I agree with your other statements WD40 is a very effective releasing agent...
WD-40 have a video showing it's effectiveness in loosening rusted parts here - https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/loosen-rust
BTW What did WD-40 ever due to you? You seem to be very anti WD-40
It's releasing property is by no means the best and is a side effect of its original usage, it's reputation as a releasing agent mostly comes from aggressive advertising.
https://www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/history
I'm not anti-WD40, I use it quite a lot, even as a releasing agent if I have no other on hand; I just like accuracy and dislike aggressive advertising.
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Looking at your link, if ordinary WD40 is a super good releasing agent, why did the WD40 company find it necessary to produce & sell a specific releasing agent: https://www.wd40specialist.com/products ... ating-oil/
I see that the video is about the special stuff, not ordinary WD40.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
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reb53 wrote:Have always found that, ( assuming the items can stand a bit of heat), that the best penetrating oil is any old oil you have lying around, and a blowtorch......
Tell that to my old steering arms and track-rod ends.
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
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The Veg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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My twin cam was thoroughly stuck when I received it. Head off and regular applications of diesel fuel to the bores for months accomplished nothing. I've used the diesel fuel method on other stuck engines but no go on this one. Mixed up the ATF and acetone and added a generous amount to each cylinder. Let sit a few days and and the engine broke free easily. A wipe down of the mixture in the bores just seemed to make the surface rust disappear as well.
I'm sold and will mix up another batch anytime its needed. The volatility of acetone doesn't make it a handy item to keep around the shop.
Kurt
26/3754
I'm sold and will mix up another batch anytime its needed. The volatility of acetone doesn't make it a handy item to keep around the shop.
Kurt
26/3754
- nomad
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Thats one advantage of living in France, strong chemicals like 32? chlorinated bleach, acetone, 23% hydrochloric acid, etc are available in even the tiniest DIY stores and even supermarkets in 5 and 20l containers.
I might have to travel 100kms to buy something usefull like a central heating pump and then have no choice but the one store but if I want to start a chemical armageddon I can get everything that I want in walking distance.
ATF fluid would be a big ask, the motor accessory shops might have it or probably would have to order it and the price would be eyewatering but all the noxious chemicals are dirt cheap, last week I used 60 litres of 32? chlorinated bleach to clean the block paved areas costing less than a round of drinks.
I might have to travel 100kms to buy something usefull like a central heating pump and then have no choice but the one store but if I want to start a chemical armageddon I can get everything that I want in walking distance.
ATF fluid would be a big ask, the motor accessory shops might have it or probably would have to order it and the price would be eyewatering but all the noxious chemicals are dirt cheap, last week I used 60 litres of 32? chlorinated bleach to clean the block paved areas costing less than a round of drinks.
- Chancer
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So here we have it.
It starts to separate pretty quickly, so I found I had to shake the jar frequently. Also, the acetone evaporates repidly and I had to add more to the jar.
I continue the story here: lotus-suspension-f42/oversteer-corners-t41214-165.html#p291268
It starts to separate pretty quickly, so I found I had to shake the jar frequently. Also, the acetone evaporates repidly and I had to add more to the jar.
I continue the story here: lotus-suspension-f42/oversteer-corners-t41214-165.html#p291268
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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