Lotus Elan

Anyone tried ATF + Acetone for freeing rusty bits?

PostPost by: elanfan1 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 2:03 am

Are,you able to turn it so the join is on a horizontal surface - if so create a raised retainer using silicone or plasticine and fill it with plus gas and leave it.

Let us know how you get on
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Tue Feb 20, 2018 2:55 am

The other option is heat. Heat the outer part with a torch until its dark red, then hit it with a hammer to break the rust.
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:57 am

I suspect that the outer tube is INSIDE the cross-member and cannot be reached that way.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Feb 20, 2018 11:21 am

billwill wrote:WD40 isn't really a releasing agent, though many people seem to think it is..


While I agree with your other statements WD40 is a very effective releasing agent...

WD-40 have a video showing it's effectiveness in loosening rusted parts here - https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/loosen-rust

BTW What did WD-40 ever due to you? You seem to be very anti WD-40 :lol:
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PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:04 pm

pharriso wrote:BTW What did WD-40 ever due to you? You seem to be very anti WD-40 :lol:

Depends whether he sniffs it or sips it :shock:
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PostPost by: Orsom Weels » Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:09 pm

billwill wrote:I suspect that the outer tube is INSIDE the cross-member and cannot be reached that way.


It is, and if the cross member has been used as the vacuum reservoir it's probably half full of petrol ! :shock:

RE WD40, Bill is technically right, it was originally developed as a water displacer for the aerospace industry, hence the WD in it's name. The 40 is reputed to have come from the fact it took them 40 attempts to perfect the formula :)

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PostPost by: JohnP » Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:41 pm

If the cross member is full of petrol, put a short length of waxed string through the vacuum vent, light it, stand back and blow the tube out.
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Feb 20, 2018 4:52 pm

pharriso wrote:
billwill wrote:WD40 isn't really a releasing agent, though many people seem to think it is..


While I agree with your other statements WD40 is a very effective releasing agent...

WD-40 have a video showing it's effectiveness in loosening rusted parts here - https://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/loosen-rust

BTW What did WD-40 ever due to you? You seem to be very anti WD-40 :lol:


It's releasing property is by no means the best and is a side effect of its original usage, it's reputation as a releasing agent mostly comes from aggressive advertising.

https://www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/history

I'm not anti-WD40, I use it quite a lot, even as a releasing agent if I have no other on hand; I just like accuracy and dislike aggressive advertising.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Looking at your link, if ordinary WD40 is a super good releasing agent, why did the WD40 company find it necessary to produce & sell a specific releasing agent: https://www.wd40specialist.com/products ... ating-oil/

I see that the video is about the special stuff, not ordinary WD40.


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PostPost by: The Veg » Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:19 am

reb53 wrote:Have always found that, ( assuming the items can stand a bit of heat), that the best penetrating oil is any old oil you have lying around, and a blowtorch......


Tell that to my old steering arms and track-rod ends.
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PostPost by: nomad » Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:50 am

My twin cam was thoroughly stuck when I received it. Head off and regular applications of diesel fuel to the bores for months accomplished nothing. I've used the diesel fuel method on other stuck engines but no go on this one. Mixed up the ATF and acetone and added a generous amount to each cylinder. Let sit a few days and and the engine broke free easily. A wipe down of the mixture in the bores just seemed to make the surface rust disappear as well.
I'm sold and will mix up another batch anytime its needed. The volatility of acetone doesn't make it a handy item to keep around the shop.

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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:55 am

Thanks Kurt, that's another success story. I am just waiting for the acetone to arrive, then I will mix a small batch in a sealable glass jar and apply with a brush, hopefully over the weekend.
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PostPost by: steveh » Fri Feb 23, 2018 8:57 am

If it helps, acetone is easily available from beauty / nail trade outlets , or if you have a fibreglass company locally they will have it .
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PostPost by: Chancer » Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:52 am

Thats one advantage of living in France, strong chemicals like 32? chlorinated bleach, acetone, 23% hydrochloric acid, etc are available in even the tiniest DIY stores and even supermarkets in 5 and 20l containers.

I might have to travel 100kms to buy something usefull like a central heating pump and then have no choice but the one store but if I want to start a chemical armageddon I can get everything that I want in walking distance.

ATF fluid would be a big ask, the motor accessory shops might have it or probably would have to order it and the price would be eyewatering but all the noxious chemicals are dirt cheap, last week I used 60 litres of 32? chlorinated bleach to clean the block paved areas costing less than a round of drinks.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Feb 24, 2018 2:10 pm

So here we have it.

img_4547.jpg and
50/50 mix ATF/Acetone

img_4548.jpg and
Looks like strawberry milkshake when you give it a good shake.

img_4550.jpg and
It's very thin. Apply with a brush.


It starts to separate pretty quickly, so I found I had to shake the jar frequently. Also, the acetone evaporates repidly and I had to add more to the jar.

I continue the story here: lotus-suspension-f42/oversteer-corners-t41214-165.html#p291268
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