Ah California!
I wrote most of this a couple of years ago for a friend in the UK who was planning much the same trip. So, after a few edits:
My views of California are simply those of a tourist or business visitor. Somebody local will be able to give better information than I.
My few observations would be:
- Agreed, don't worry about distances. The petrol is cheap and the landscape is so varied and fabulous that you can't get enough of it. But, of course, distance = time, which can be in short supply on a holiday.
- If you're going to Las Vegas, consider going to the Hoover Dam (a short drive), and trying to get to the Grand Canyon (a long drive). If you can't drive to the Grand Canyon, take a small fixed wing tourist flight there. They land on the rim and are a lot of fun. Go early or late in the day, to catch the sunrise/sunset, which enhances the shadows and makes the Canyon even more spectacular. Don't bother with the helicopter flights, which seem sexy but are simply expensive and less intimate/engaging.
- Once you've seen one casino you've seen them all (I'm not a gambler). That said, you have to see the Venetian, Caesar's, and the Bellagio fountains. I've learned that it's rarely worth walking miles or taking a cab to a "wonderful" restaurant in some other casino further along the strip. Once you get there you won't see any difference from the restaurants in the casino you just left. In other words, the quality & price is essentially the same everywhere.
- If you want to head further east then there's Monument Valley. It's still on my to-do list. I've never managed to fit it into my itinerary.
- Death Valley is considered a must, but I have to say that my visit there was diminished by trying to do it in a hurry. It was a cool day too, which I suppose defeats the whole idea of going. I need to try again.
- If you're thinking of going further north than San Francisco, consider Napa/Sonoma wine country, and Lake Tahoe. All fabulous areas.
- If you have time in San Francisco head out to nearby Muir Woods to see the Sequoia grove, especially if you don't plan to see them in the Sierras. Do Alcatraz - also still on my to-do list, supposed to be one of the best tourist attractions anywhere. Climb Telegraph Hill. Visit Chinatown. Have breakfast at a Mels Drive-in (a must do!).
- A 5 minute free thrill for the kids: When you're in Union Square (you will be at some stage) go into the Westin St Francis Hotel and walk to the lifts at the back of the hotel (in the new section). Not the old lifts at the front. Jump in one and take a ride to the top floor and back. A fun view! Also, the bar on the top floor of the nearby Marriott Marquis hotel, on Mission/4th, is good for a nice view too (but you have to buy a drink!).
- There are two main cable car routes: Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde. Take the Powell-Hyde one, which is much more spectacular. If you're getting on at the bottom of Powell Street you'll notice that the routes alternate (it's written on the side of the cable car). So skip one if you get to the head of the queue and find it's a Mason car. Or go to Fisherman's Wharf on one and return on the other.
- Try to go to the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market on Saturday morning. Well worth a visit.
- If San Francisco is cold and foggy, drive over the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito for lunch/dinner. It'll probably be clear and has lovely views of the city. While you're at it drive up the Marin Headlands road - spectacular.
- Yosemite is probably my favourite place in the world. Try to stay in the Ahwahnee Lodge. It's expensive and probably booked already, but try. At the other end of the scale you could try Curry Village campsite, with its fixed tents. This might sound grim to European ears, but it's a classic American experience and a lot of fun. You won't forget either place. Otherwise my favourite place is the Wawona Lodge, which is 20 odd miles from the valley itself. You could try a B&B in somewhere like Fish Camp, Groveland, or Mariposa. I once stayed at
http://www.lillaskogyosemite.com/ which was very nice, but there are plenty to choose from. Don't get tempted to stay somewhere cheap in the Central Valley.
- The problem with Yosemite is that it's small and can be very crowded. All the waterfalls flow in Spring, but several are dry by late Summer. There's very little snow so far this year, so who knows how long the waterfalls will run. Either way, the real way to see Yosemite is to hike up one of the trails. They are vertical and tough unless you're in good shape. The trails on the north side of the valley get full sun, so are hot. The ones on the south side are in the shade. The most obvious trail would be to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls - which flow all year round. Take water, hat, suntan stuff, wear decent shoes.
- There's whitewater rafting in the Tuolumne River -
http://www.sierramac.com/ for instance. A lot of fun. Assuming there's any water this year, that is.
- Drive to Tuolumne Meadows and Tenaya Lake to get a feel for the High Sierras. If you don't fancy a vertical Yosemite Valley hike, take a horizontal one from Tuolumne. A hike in Lyell Canyon is flat, away from the crowds, and a magical experience. Take a packed lunch and head out for an hour or two! As somebody told me during a hike in the High Sierras "any day above 8,000ft is a good day." He was absolutely right.
- Sequoia National Park is magnificent, but I always find it hard to squeeze in the itinerary. I once took a road from the park down to the Central Valley (I don't remember which) which was without doubt the curviest road I've ever driven. And it went on forever.
- Back in San Francisco, don't miss the Pacific Coast Highway, Route 1 between San Francisco to Los Angeles. As Bill mentioned, it'll make you miss your Elan desperately (as will the roads to/from Yosemite). Generally regarded as one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Starting in Monterey, stop in Carmel for big money; Pfeiffer Beach (the turn off is hard to find) for a wonderful beach; Napenthe for lunch overlooking the Pacific; the small beach at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park for beauty (McWay Beach). None are to be missed. I don't know the south half of the road, but presumably there's plenty there too.
- Then there's Hearst Castle. Yet another on my to-do list.
- I don't know anything about Los Angeles. But Santa Monica/Venice and Muscle Beach are fun.
- Further south would take you to San Diego, which always seems like a nice city to me. While there visit the fabulous Hotel del Coronado for a sunset drink on the patio. And to think of Marilyn Monroe, Jack Lemmon and Tony Curtis filming "Some Like it Hot" there. The Zoo was great when I visited a long time ago. And the Air & Space Museum has an SR-71 Blackbird - which justifies a visit all by itself (checkout the SR-71 Wikipedia entry, it's amazing). Nearby La Jolla is a wealthy upmarket town.
- The list is endless.
If you can, get a convertible. Easy to do from LAX, harder from SFO. I once rented a Solara, which was fine. Not much room for luggage though. And the rear seats are not too big either. A tiny saloon is probably a false economy, get one size bigger than you think you need! An SUV is fine.
Ah California! Why the heck didn't I get a job there?
Nick
Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:35 pm
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