Most satisfying long term upgrade

[Foxie]

Stu
"For a cheap and easy Plus 2 mod, grind a bevel on the end of the two hex screws that form the bonnet hinges. Way easier to get the bolt started in the bobbin."

or even replace it with a longer screw , with the pointed end as suggested but also with wing nuts brazed on the ends , so much easier to fit/tighten with ones fingers rather than trying to get a spanner/socket in there...

John

Snap ! I did both these mods some time ago !

[prezoom]

Bud English and I were corresponding on Zetec issues when he brought up the two bolts that hold the rubber transmission mount to the chassis bracket. Back in 2006 when I first purchased the S2, and had to remove the engine, that lash up also irritated me. Seemed like extra unnecessary work to me. To solve the removal issue, I drilled a hole in the chassis bracket directly below the bolt securing the rubber mount to the transmission. Replaced the hex headed bolt with a 12 point, which takes a 12 point 7/16" socket, the same size as the bolt. A 1/4" 12 point deep socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet easily slips up through the hole and negates the removal of the two bolts holding the mount to the chassis bracket. If you like to stay as far away from work as possible, like me, you can stick an extension between the socket and the ratchet. Makes quick work of the removal of the chassis bracket from the transmission. I did the same mod to the bracket on the Plus2.

[miked]

Wipe using Light Stalk!
Last night I did a job that I think will be handy. Rather than fit a timed wiper control that you keep fiddling with, I made the flash function on the dip/main beam stalk to carry out a wipe. It has been discussed before about making this work. I pulled the standard switch out to find a 4 wire device with flash function throwing a positive signal in the dip position. So you would need to have the light wedge switch (fully) operated and side lights on (if you did not pull the vac switch). Perhaps no bad thing having side lights on in the rain?
Looking closely I could have carefully cut the link and soldered an extra wire to create an isolated independent switch. However, looking in my spares box I found a 5 wire stalk unit with separate flash circuit. Using this I powered a relay with changeover contacts (common, NC and NO). Using just 3 wires you can break the park circuit on the dash switch (electric brake) and feed a low speed positive. When operated this flick puts the wiper motor onto its park circuit supply to complete the wipe. So now, without taking my eyes off the road I can give a swish by just a pull on the stalk under my hand.
In the past when I have fitted timed controls they have had two relays or two switches. One for breaking the dash park circuit and one for the pulse to power up. It can however be done with the single relay.

Mike

[miked]

I like this thread!

So I have one more from my list of niggles. That jiggle that you get on the clutch Pedal (this is on S4) were the pedal lever pivot is worn (elongated) where the clevis pin from the master cylinder connects. I bit the bullet and pulled it all out and welded up and remade the hole to fit a new pin within thousands. Lubed up and put back and I know have a quiet pedal without 3/8 inch jiggle. This is what it must have been like when new. Did Brake one with a bigger pin. It feels so nice now without that play. Should have done it earlier.

Think it may be time to lay up now for winter with Frost and Salt.

Mike

[JonB]

I'm only just starting on my Plus 2 as you know, but for me, so far:

• Fitting relays and new earth to the headlights (which are already halogen).

..and that's it. Everything else I have done has been maintenance related and each piece of work has yielded incremental improvements - front bearings (tighten), handbrake warning light (fix), interior (clean), boot earthing / battery post connections (clean and reconnect), tyres (check and inflate), throttle cable (replace), clutch pedal (fettle), pod mechanism (fettle, not 100% satisfactory yet).

[david.g.chapman]

Not my idea (i got it from this forum), but it has to be a great time saver.

Drill two 35mm holes (or so) with a steel tank cutter (?6 from ebay) in the pedal box just above the pivots for the clutch and brake master cylinders. On my ex-federal plus 2 the pedal box roof slopes down close to these pivots, so when the holes are drilled the clevis pins are easily removed for changing the seals in the master cylinders.

Finish off with two 35mm grommets.

No more gymnastics required in the driver's footwell

Dave Chapman.

[prezoom]

I went a bit farther than David. Cut out the entire top of the pedal box, leaving only a small lip around the outer edge. A new plate and six (6) self tapping screws secure the plate. I now have complete access to all of the workings from the top. Also added a fitted large .0625" 4130 plate beneath the box in the footwell, which stiffened up the entire structure.

[JonB]

I did see a picture of a pedal box with a removable cover that someone had put on, seemed like a jolly good idea to me. Similar idea but with even more access.

(prezoom beat me to it!)

[miked]

My Plus 2 is gone but I did the grommets and also the top lid thing with riv nuts. Good mod. Even dropped the Lumenition box on top of the inspection cover. Mike

[The Veg]

I went a bit farther than David. Cut out the entire top of the pedal box, leaving only a small lip around the outer edge. A new plate and six (6) self tapping screws secure the plate.

I just did this too in the course of refurbishing the box, but I only used four screws. Add lightness!

[a price]

A de-humidifier in my garage. After poor storage in my last garage a dehumidifier has made all the difference. No covers which do more harm than good

[mark030358]

A Sport 380

[h20hamelan]

the most satisfying would be...adjustable turnbuckles

[miked]

Thread bumped for Steve