Lotus Elan

Recommend for brake bleeding kit?

PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Mon Sep 02, 2013 3:13 pm

Hej Jens

Can you explain about the speedbleeders... I mean better than on the website which is very comercial

Tack
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Wed Sep 04, 2013 3:16 pm

Did you see this page on their site?

http://www.speedbleeder.com/install.htm

The bleeder has a small one way check valve inside that prevents air from entering during the up stroke of the pedal. The thread sealer, which is already installed on the new bleeder screw, seals the threads preventing air from entering while the screw is unseated. Once the bleeding is completed they seat as normal bleed screws on the conical seat. There is no thread sealer in the first thread or two to allow getting them started into the caliper.

Use a correctly sized socket to install and seat them. The sealer makes them a bit stiffer than a clean thread to install the first time. Once installed they feel similar to a regular bleed screw.

They work well. One of mine lost its sealing as the thread sealer wore out. Not a big deal as the corner can be bled as normal by shutting the screw on the upstroke, or add new coat of sealer.

If taking the car to a shop, let them know they are installed. Loosening and tightening the bleed screw several times can wear off the thread sealer.

Interesting that the bleeder screw head size is Imperial, even with metric threads. I used the metric size on my 2000 Esprit, but did not know ahead of time to use an Imperial wrench. :) I had forgot I figured it out.

They work for the clutch slave as well, which is great as access can be more difficult than the brake calipers.

HTH
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Sep 08, 2013 2:03 pm

Ok understood! However it is a good thing to use a piece of tubing and a bag as they recommend so you can see when it becomes buble free. And this way you dont spill old brake fluid everywhere

The little hose kit i bought does the same job as it has a one way valve at its end. You can see through the clear tubing when its buble free.
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PostPost by: ricarbo » Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:21 am

I too had trouble with the Eezibleed leaking at the master cylinder cap and leaving the master cylinder filled to the brim. Partly my own fault, I'm sure, because I didn't want to let the air out of my spare tyre, only to have to pump it up again at the end. I found it quicker and easier to use the traditional tube with a non return valve, which works fine. I only open the bleed valve just enough, in an attempt to avoid the air getting in round the threads, but if I had a problem with that, I think I would try a wind of plumbers PTFE tape round the bleed valve. On reflection, maybe I wouldn't, in case the PTFE tape isn't compatible with brake fluid, leading to problems later. I don't know.
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PostPost by: EPA » Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:29 am

The Eezibleed is very easy to use but you need to be sure that you have a good seal on the master cylinder.I wouldn't put too much fluid into the bottle until you have tested it. The first time I used mine I did all the tests without putting fluid in the bottle and all was fine. I then put in some fluid and all was ok for the first wheel but then there was a sudden release of air and all the fluid was forced out with very messy results.Put plenty of kitchen roll or similar around the base of the master cylinder just in case.

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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:41 pm

On a RHD 2-seater the master cylinders are underneath the front carb, with very little clearance. It is very difficult to get the top Easybleed cap on and sealed and if you get it tight it is then very difficult to get it off again. All in all it is far too much bother on an RHD Elan, compared with just using a simple funnel with a bit of plastic pipe as an extension.

You do get a valved bleed tube with the Easybleed kit and that's the only bit I use nowadays.
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