removal of propeller shaft

PostPost by: loueelotus » Wed Nov 30, 2022 12:51 am

HI, I am going to remove the propeller shaft this winter from my Elan S2 1965 to inspect and install new 2 u joints. I read how to do it from the old lotus Elan Series 1 workshop manual.. Does anyone know a easier was to do it..
Also I am looking at Spicer DANA 5-101X as the joints to get.. They seem to be one of the best. Do they fit well? Any info much appreciated

Thanks,
Lou
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Nov 30, 2022 11:24 am

What was the Elan series 1 workshop manuel method please.
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PostPost by: loueelotus » Wed Nov 30, 2022 5:13 pm

Hi, Here is the info on removing the propeller shaft.. On the nearside of the back side of the car remove the suspension and driveshaft..

So wow what a job.. Is there another way

Thanks,
Lou
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PostPost by: Gorpon73 » Thu Dec 01, 2022 6:51 pm

Hello,

I've unfortunately done this job numerous times. It was awful the first couple times, but actually not too bad once you get your method dialed in.

Remove the bolts on the diff flange, pull the propshaft rearwards and to the side of the diff until the yolk slides off the gearbox shaft on the other end. There will be just enough room to the side of the diff flange to slide it rearwards. Then pull the shaft forward from the other end under the gearbox. You will need to remove the brace under the gearbox and jack it up slightly to have enough clearance to pull the propshaft forward and out of the frame.

To install, shove it back down the chassis tunnel and to the side of the diff again. You can reach up into the frame and slide the yolk forward back on the shaft but its a MAJOR bastard. It's well worth removing the seat and accessing the hole on the side of the tunnel (passenger side for left hand drive cars) from the interior to reach in and slide the yolk on the shaft. Lift the rear end up to the diff flange and rebolt. Remember to mark it before removing so you can re-install in the same orientation.

Good luck.
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PostPost by: loueelotus » Fri Dec 02, 2022 1:51 am

Thank you..Gorpon73
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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Dec 02, 2022 12:07 pm

I suggest putting the gearbox end in a plastic bag before shoving it down the tunnel from the back.
Remove it at the front end by using the hole in the side of the tunnel.

It's to prevent muck & grit getting on & into the splines.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Dec 02, 2022 7:32 pm

Hi Bill,
Surely you clean the Tunnel before putting the Prop back
Alan
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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Dec 02, 2022 11:46 pm

alan.barker wrote:Hi Bill,
Surely you clean the Tunnel before putting the Prop back
Alan


Yes, but, it's really difficult to get ALL the crud out.
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PostPost by: loueelotus » Sat Dec 03, 2022 12:06 am

Can you use a high pressure washer or does that leave water in the tunnel..

Lou
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Dec 03, 2022 4:16 am

That's a good idea a Karcher and if the Chassis is Galvanised a little water won't hurt :wink: :wink:
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PostPost by: loueelotus » Mon Dec 05, 2022 1:15 am

It am original Chassis.. So I will see what I can do.. The chassis was primed with self sacrificing marine primer then top coated with black enamel..

Lou
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Dec 05, 2022 8:04 pm

I expect that if you drive in the rain or on wet roads, there is bound to be water in the tunnel anyway as the front is open and your front wheels will, I think, throw up water onto the bottom of the engine and then the slip stream will cause it to run around the bell housing, then the gear box and it will drip off the tail of the gearbox, into the tunnel.
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