Brake fluid level sensor

PostPost by: alaric » Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:25 am

Hi all.

I'm trying to get the brake fluid level switch to work; it's from a '73 +2 S130/5. The contacts seem to work ok, in that it's open circuit unless the float drops, at which point it goes to a few ohms resistance. But it's not reliable in the fluid.

Does anyone know how to take the brake fluid cap apart? It has two rivets in the top, that appear to be the key.

Thanks.

Sean.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:29 am

Sean, do a search on this site for SOVY...

Gently pry the top cover off... the "rivets" are actually coarsely threaded & should rotate out with care.
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PostPost by: alaric » Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:31 am

Aha. Thanks Phil. I had no idea that they were threaded. I'll try that - after searching as you suggest.

Regards.

Sean.
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PostPost by: alaric » Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:43 am

Haha so I would never have thought to search for SOVY.

Brilliant. The answers are there. Thanks Phil.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Aug 22, 2022 10:52 am

The cork float can get saturated and not "float". Worthwhile replacing the float if the contacts switch ok on high and low level

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PostPost by: alaric » Mon Aug 22, 2022 11:15 am

Thanks Rohan.

I am on the hunt for a cork from a bottle of chateauneuf du pape, as used by Alan in a previous thread :).

I presume that would be pre-saturated with red wine. Which has to help...

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Aug 22, 2022 11:40 am

:D
Any good red cork works

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PostPost by: SENC » Mon Aug 22, 2022 12:38 pm

I would think a single malt cork would be more fitting.
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PostPost by: alanr » Mon Aug 22, 2022 4:01 pm

Yes my Sovy valve still works very well with it's Chateauneuf du Pape cork that I installed a couple of years ago!
A quality wine should certainly give you a 'premium' quality cork to do the job with. :wink:
If I did it today, times being what they are, it would probably have to be done with a cork from something a lot cheaper and of more lowly vintage. :lol:

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PostPost by: alaric » Tue Aug 23, 2022 5:39 pm

I received a shiny new sovy valve today, from the jaguar dealership sng barrat. I've now taken the top off and am trying to fit the master cylinder cap from the +2. It doesn't quite want to go on, so I need to fettle either the lid or the new plastic part. I'm thinking fettling of the new part is the better plan. Hopefully it'll all go back together easily. It was £23 plus postage so not actually an expensive fix.

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PostPost by: Donels » Thu Aug 25, 2022 9:31 am

Recently repaired mine. The brutal bit is getting those two screws out, which will be rusty. I replaced mine with stainless self tappers. The rest is straightforward.
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PostPost by: alaric » Fri Aug 26, 2022 9:36 am

Hi. I had to disassemble the Jaguar Sovy, to replace the cap, but also to shorten the length of the bar that holds the cork, and the aluminium cylinder. It was easy to do. I gently prised up the nylon top cover, and pulled the two screws / inserts out. Self tappers would be much better there. Once I'd removed the Jag cap, I pulled the cylinder that covers the cork off - it's only held in place by 4 punch marks. The cork was held onto the bar by a little washer that gripped the bar - not sure what they are called, but I was able to remove that with a small screwdriver and patience. I then clipped the bar to the right length, drilled the top of the cork to accommodate the reduced length - so I didn't have to disturb the little washer that's permanently mounted onto the bar. I then pushed the cork onto the bar, forcing the retaining washer that's on top of the cork into the hole that I'd drilled. The lower retaining washer then pushed easily back on. I measured the cylinder and very gently hack sawed it to the right length, popped it back on, punched it 4 times, and it's as good as new. I put the contacts back in, popped the top cover on and pushed the rivets back in - they seemed to hold, so that's good enough for now.

I used the cap seal that was with the Jag unit to seal between the +2 cap and the nylon top part - it's an almost perfect fit, and I prefer it as it's not an o ring seal - it's a flat rubber washer. Seems to have stayed where I put it. I may need self tappers to compress it, but for now it's all back together and on the car.

I tested it on the MC with no brake fluid, then increasing the amount until I got open circuit. Works really nicely.

For £23 plus postage I'm quite pleased. I actually bought two of the Jag units to be sure I was able to fix my inevitable mistakes :).

Regards.

Sean.
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PostPost by: TonyA » Mon Oct 24, 2022 6:12 pm

When I looked at SNG's website for their ( Jaguar) Sovy thing, I can see the main parts look pretty identical to the Lotus However I was concerned that the Jag alloy screw cap looks rather smaller than the ( approx 63mm diameter) needed for the Lotus.I say this because I rebuilt my Lotus Sovy successfully but its original alloy cap looks rather corroded and chewed up , letting down the look, so going for a Jag Sovy abd finding the screw cap incompatible is no good for me. Can anyone confirm weter the Jag Sovy's alloy screw cap fits the Lotus elan master cylinder neck..?.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Oct 24, 2022 6:49 pm

TonyA wrote:When I looked at SNG's website for their ( Jaguar) Sovy thing, I can see the main parts look pretty identical to the Lotus However I was concerned that the Jag alloy screw cap looks rather smaller than the ( approx 63mm diameter) needed for the Lotus.I say this because I rebuilt my Lotus Sovy successfully but its original alloy cap looks rather corroded and chewed up , letting down the look, so going for a Jag Sovy abd finding the screw cap incompatible is no good for me. Can anyone confirm weter the Jag Sovy's alloy screw cap fits the Lotus elan master cylinder neck..?.


Tony, do you have a 2 Seater or a Plus 2? The SOVY units fitted are different:
IMG_6235a.jpg and
2 Seater Elan SOVY (Mine...)

Plus2_EuroSOVY.JPG and
Plus 2 Sovy


The SNG SOVY is a longer version of the Elan's SOVY.
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PostPost by: Donels » Mon Oct 24, 2022 7:27 pm

Tony, You can get new alloy screw caps on EBay.
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