Front suspension bushing replacement - Plus 2
Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2021 6:14 pm
Trying to scope out the difficulties replacing various front bushings and getting a better setup.
The alignment shop recently highlighted some of them require attention. I have not crawled under to see the current condition, but I assume one replaces all the bushings at the same time anyway? I do recall seeing some of the bushings bulging out somewhat, and not sure if I didn’t assemble things correctly; should there be large washers to retain the bushings?
Basically the car steers very well when loaded up in corners and under braking, but there is annoying on centre wandering and tramlining happening when travelling straight or particularly in relaxed high speed bends. Do I just need to take it back and ask for a bit more toe in first?
Background is I have a Spyder spaceframe with Spyder wishbones and Spyder supplied springs and shocks. Rear wishbones are adjustable. I installed everything with the body off, and just can’t recall details. Going from memory only, I thought my front springs and shocks (with ride height adjustment) came as a compressed strut assembly and I therefore won’t need a spring compressor? I think they are similar to the picture below from the Spyder site. I have a local shop lined up to press the bushings into place for me, so hopefully I can remove & reinstall the wishbones myself.
Basically what is involved taking things apart? Do I need spring compressors to get access to the bushings? If so, how is the access / clearance at the front? Trying to decide if it is better for me to get the job done or whether I can do a portion of the job myself over the long winter.
I have attached the alignment sheet as well. The before numbers are out considerably as the front ride height was significantly adjusted since the original alignment, which was actually working quite well. I was hoping they would put 0.3 degrees of toe at each corner as per John Clegg’s recommendation for our Plus 2’s. Not sure why they used 0.22 as a target, except they may have toe values in their Hunter machine that might be more suitable for the two seaters. Other item is the rather large difference between side to side rear camber; is that indicating a potential bushing issue in the rear as well?
So my present plan is to renew the front bushings and see how things feel, and then follow up with an alignment as required. Or should I get the toe in adjusted first?
Thanks in advance
Stu
The alignment shop recently highlighted some of them require attention. I have not crawled under to see the current condition, but I assume one replaces all the bushings at the same time anyway? I do recall seeing some of the bushings bulging out somewhat, and not sure if I didn’t assemble things correctly; should there be large washers to retain the bushings?
Basically the car steers very well when loaded up in corners and under braking, but there is annoying on centre wandering and tramlining happening when travelling straight or particularly in relaxed high speed bends. Do I just need to take it back and ask for a bit more toe in first?
Background is I have a Spyder spaceframe with Spyder wishbones and Spyder supplied springs and shocks. Rear wishbones are adjustable. I installed everything with the body off, and just can’t recall details. Going from memory only, I thought my front springs and shocks (with ride height adjustment) came as a compressed strut assembly and I therefore won’t need a spring compressor? I think they are similar to the picture below from the Spyder site. I have a local shop lined up to press the bushings into place for me, so hopefully I can remove & reinstall the wishbones myself.
Basically what is involved taking things apart? Do I need spring compressors to get access to the bushings? If so, how is the access / clearance at the front? Trying to decide if it is better for me to get the job done or whether I can do a portion of the job myself over the long winter.
I have attached the alignment sheet as well. The before numbers are out considerably as the front ride height was significantly adjusted since the original alignment, which was actually working quite well. I was hoping they would put 0.3 degrees of toe at each corner as per John Clegg’s recommendation for our Plus 2’s. Not sure why they used 0.22 as a target, except they may have toe values in their Hunter machine that might be more suitable for the two seaters. Other item is the rather large difference between side to side rear camber; is that indicating a potential bushing issue in the rear as well?
So my present plan is to renew the front bushings and see how things feel, and then follow up with an alignment as required. Or should I get the toe in adjusted first?
Thanks in advance
Stu