jabingb wrote:I'm starting from scratch as I had taken it all apart MANY years ago and have no record of the proportion of front to rear and would like to get it reasonably close as adjusting will be kind of tight down in the footwell. I'm also thinking of machining some flats on both ends to further facilitate the process. might not be needed if properly cleaned up and lubbed. Thoughts?
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This setup looks nice, would you please post a photo of the complete system, possibly including a ruler for scale? I would just wonder about the sliding threaded rod dimension which seems a bit small on that view...
As for adjusting, assuming the car is set beforehand (reasonably driveable with current tires and pads etc), MerlinMotorsports, APRacing or Tilton offer a roadmap for tuning, which starts with the 2 clevis equally spaced on each side of the sphere (catching the play equally of both front and rear rods), and if there is a large discrepancy between front and rear caliper pistons, at an angle towards the rear for the front master cylinder side to accomodate for the larger volume to push, so at to get a sliding rod parallel to the pedal axis under load. Then when the sliding rod is set so that the leverage is larger on one side than the other, the applied braking pressure will be higher on the side (front or rear) with the shorter part of the sliding rod.
They also remind that when bleeding one should to open a caliper of the front and rear circuits at the same time (to avoid bending the sliding rod).
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/files/transfer/technical/doc/tilton600seriesbalancebars.pdfRohan posted a photo of a similar system some years ago
https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17529&start=