Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I was thinking of making some adjustable A frames, anybody know where I can get the turnbuckles from? I'm in the UK. Thanks.

Those are too big. The ID of the tube is .740" give or take. There's a link to smaller ones in the thread below. I think I used the 1/2 diameter but will need to check tonight to verify.

viewtopic.php?f=42&t=30315&start=

That's a fast reply! Thanks fellas!

Contact Elantrikbits in Australia. Colin does some and has a sort video on them.

Here is Col’s blog.

http://elantrikbits.com/lotus-elan-blog ... ar-a-arms/

Cheers.




quote="jonesa62"]Contact Elantrikbits in Australia. Colin does some and has a sort video on them.[/quote]

snowyelan wrote:Those are too big. The ID of the tube is .740" give or take. There's a link to smaller ones in the thread below. I think I used the 1/2 diameter but will need to check tonight to verify.

viewtopic.php?f=42&t=30315&start=

oops. thanks
any listing or source for the inner sleeves, or options?
I am still without lathe, or mill. Not for long though-i hope

So one would need to increase the 1/2” version
Or decrease the 5/8?
Decreasing the threads of the 5/8 makes sense, as they dont offer much strength anyway.

Comments please

I am planning to do this also, haven't yet bought the parts buts looking at options.

For the tube ends a few options:
https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Chassi ... 9/10002/-1
https://www.mcmaster.com/tube-ends/tube ... ld-nuts-6/
https://www.mcmaster.com/tube-ends/left ... weld-nuts/
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... oduct=3057


For the jack screw:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... duct=SJ080

Interested in your find a US/Canada supplier.

i do wonder if end tubes are needed.
if you get rid of the threads (5/8), you are very close. further, adding more pieces makes more welding. I figure, if you drilled 4 holes, near the end of the A arm tubes, and plug weld them, then finish a nice weld on the end for the nut to rest on. You would be doing good?
but I know not, so I ask

Pegasus racing or the like may have them

Afraid I am not really sure what your proposing but the arm will likely be subject to compression and stretching forces. So the solution need to prevent movement under both situations.

With out the rod ends in the tubes i am not sure how get adjustment that also prevent stretch/compression of the arm. Any flexing in the arm would likely cause some form of fatigue failure at some point, aswell as quite dodgy handling due to dynamic toe changes in the meantime.

i believe if the threaded portion of the turnbuckles (which now have their threads removed) is welded at the ends of the A arms. As well as holes drilled to make plug welds possible.
How would this be different than merely welding/brazing the ends of A arms to tube ends, then to turnbuckle. In fact there is less chances of failure with fewer parts.

Brain fart, of course. Can’t be welded.
Sometimes it takes more than it should. Sorry, and thanks

I am still keen on a set, mainly for the elan
Mark points out

“Alex sounds like a fun day in the shop!

In case anyone wants to know stateside the parts I used to build the arms are as follows:
Parts Master ES2032S 2ea
Parts Master ES2033RL 2ea
Parts Master ES2034RL 2ea

If you wish to use Moog parts use the same part numbers but from Moog and pay twice the price.

Cost for the Parts Master for the package was about $60 and I could not turn on the lathe for that cost.

Good luck builders
Mark”

From

viewtopic.php?t=19474&p=109425

Wondering please, if there are any issues with this approach. As its available, and easy.

Is anyone aware of a supplier of these threaded rods with the 'seat' on the top, in the UK? ( or otherwise, if desperate)

Is it a set screw that's been turned down?