nmauduit wrote:I suppose you are positive they need changing and not just re setting...
There is nothing fancy about this job, just take your time in removing the races (tapping through the hub from the other side, a little at a time and from all positions so as not to jam it twisted), also make sure you are tapping on the race and not on some protruding casting, esp. at the beginningwhen they are seated.
Then when tightening the bearings, there is a bit of a feeling to get, you may want to double check that after a few miles if in doubt (one can find descriptions of the procedure on the net, it involves tightening, turning the wheel, undoing, tightening again,undoing... then getting the bearing not so pressed that they drag).
go for it ! one side at a time.
I'm not certain they need changing but I notice on tight right turns, there is a noticeable whirring sound. The right side bearing is definitely not tight as there is noticeable play, even after driving. There is no noise during normal operation or non-tight turns, even at speed.
Craven wrote:Very straightforward Job, the more difficult part is the removal of the inner races from the hub.
You need to makeup, one long one short drift supports, cut to the exact length that bridge across the race. I used a length of ½ inch square bar,
After you have cleaned all the old grease from the inside you will see, looking down inside two cut outs in the race support, this is where your perfectly fashioned drift support bridges the race allowing the inner race to be pressed or drifted out.
Like any fitting of bearings, ensure you start the bearing absolutely square into the hole, things can go horribly wrong if you don’t.
Thanks! Is there any reason I can't order one of those bearing removal tools off of Amazon to achieve this?
rgh0 wrote:In addition to whats been said I would also buy the bearings from an industrial bearing supplier and ensure I got a recognised name brand component from a quality American, European or Japanese bearing maker. Many of these now have special sealed package markings to help deter and detect counterfeit copies.
Dave Bean sells Nilos seals which are a metal to metal seal with less drag and work better than the felt seal. They seal both the outside and inside bearing and the outside one fits under the hub end float adjusting nut. A useful modification - Lotus used to use them on the old F1 cars of the 60's that also used Triumph style uprights so you can say you have some F1 tech on your car !
cheers
Rohan
Thanks, Rohan! I already purchased the Lucas units from RDent. My car was converted to the 4-bolt hub during its mid '90s restoration per invoices I have from Dave Bean.
Fantastic, I will watch this later.
Thank you all for your help and encouragement.