Canley Classics upright

[Andy8421]

Is it the height of the uniball relative to the upright that is causing the bump steer issue? Is it possible to space the uniball down? Or is simple wider track, in which case I'd have expected you could dial the bump steer out.

V

The issue is that the Canley bottom joint effectively makes the lower wishbone approximately 1 inch longer, so the original parallelogram made up of the top and bottom wishbone, fulcrum pins on the chassis and the top balljoint / bottom trunion is not the same as originally designed, and the lower wishbone pivot describes a different arc to the original pivot bolt.

I can see why it has happened, the shock/spring mounting bolt is close to the trunion pivot, so its tough to do much in there, and the trunion itself has the bottom pivot and the threaded swivel separated by about an inch, Canley have combined both into one balljoint, effectively moving the bottom pivot outward.

Given ACBC was considered a suspension whizzkid, I am not keen on altering the effective front wishbone length from standard without a good reason.

[baileyman]

It seems to me if I had had these parts instead of the brass trunions installed when I adjusted my bump, the additional 1" lower link length would have only changed the height of the rack I arrived at by a little, and the process would have been the same. The point of the adjustment is to angle the steering rods to the intersection of the upper link and the lower link by projecting them in space toward the other side of the car. I may be wrong but there seems likely to be negligible change in the location of that intersection by lengthening the lower link a bit. Happy to be shown wrong.

Here's my rig for finding the intersection:

Here it is set for standard Elan alignment with lower link level. If you move the upright on the right 1" further out on the lower link, the upper link should be pulled down slightly and the intersection out to the left somewhere will move a bit further out. The steering rod end would then point very slightly higher towards it, requiring a very slightly higher rack. But such a slight adjustment may be in the it-doesn't-matter range.

As long as your approximatly 1" of bump movement is within the roughly linear swing of toe-in, it should be fine.

A cool thing about these parts, though, is you can adjust caster without concern. That could be useful. John

[vstibbard]

Its no unlike the 26R set up, where the car runs much lower, and yet the toe is able to be adjusted with shims, and if pedantic at the steering arm end.

[Billmack]

Truth be told front bump steer unless its really bad is not nearly as important as rear bump steer. The inside wheel will be lightly loaded. And you are correcting the steering with your hands on the wheel