On to planning for the brakes!
17 posts
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First of all I?d like to say thank you for all of the coaching and information so far. I very much appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions.
My ?69 DHC has sat since 1992 - to state the obvious the brake will need attention.
Rather than fuss around with unknown cores I was planning on just ordering a new brake MC.
Would it make sense to just order new front brake calipers as well?
Any common brake line upgrades recommended for a road car?
Anything special about the rear brakes to be aware of?
Thanks!
My ?69 DHC has sat since 1992 - to state the obvious the brake will need attention.
Rather than fuss around with unknown cores I was planning on just ordering a new brake MC.
Would it make sense to just order new front brake calipers as well?
Any common brake line upgrades recommended for a road car?
Anything special about the rear brakes to be aware of?
Thanks!
SoCal
1969 Elan DHC
1969 Elan DHC
- tdskip
- Third Gear
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Master cylinders and refurbed calipers readily available and a quick easy fix if you don't fancy doing them yourself - mc could easily be damaged anyway.
If you've got a workshop manual do read up on the handbrake mechanism that's attached to the rear calipers.
There will be threads on here.
They aren't actually difficult to refurb but are now obsolete.
You may want to consider braided hoses to the calipers.
If you've got a workshop manual do read up on the handbrake mechanism that's attached to the rear calipers.
There will be threads on here.
They aren't actually difficult to refurb but are now obsolete.
You may want to consider braided hoses to the calipers.
- MarkDa
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Front discs are the sa.e as other contemporary cars so are a reasonable price and definitely worth replacing while you've got the calipers off.
Rears are Lotus specials - available but volume reflected in the price.
Not an easy replacement as they are connected into the final drive - or are you planning to remove that anyway?
In which case unless yours are very good you may want to replace.
Rears are Lotus specials - available but volume reflected in the price.
Not an easy replacement as they are connected into the final drive - or are you planning to remove that anyway?
In which case unless yours are very good you may want to replace.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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Be aware that replacement master cylinders may be supplied with the wrong length actuating rod and you will need to replace it with the part from the old mc. So don?t bin the old one until you?ve compared with the new.
Steve
Steve
- steve.thomas
- Second Gear
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The rear disc sits sandwiched between the 3 legs of the outer driveshaft and the outer rotoflex (or CV joint if you've converted). It doesn't need much error in the parts (or even grit in the joints) to have the disc run with a slight side to side wobble - and there's very little leeway in the specification (about .004"max iirc).
After spending ages chasing down brake judder when I changed my first set of rotoflex couplings it came down to excess runout. I now put a dial gauge on the disc to check it's either within spec or as good as I can get it (not necessarily the same thing ). Moving the disc and the other parts around on the three bolts to give different assembly arrangements can change the run out quite a bit, or you may have to resort to more drastic methods (file / lathe etc if it's really bad). I've only had to do that once and a few file strokes fixed it.
It's a pain to do but better than assembling without checking and finding you've got to take it all apart again because the juddering drives you nuts and the handbrake won't stay in adjustment (runout can wear the pads).
I always check the front discs as well but it's rare to get a problem with them if you keep everything clean.
After spending ages chasing down brake judder when I changed my first set of rotoflex couplings it came down to excess runout. I now put a dial gauge on the disc to check it's either within spec or as good as I can get it (not necessarily the same thing ). Moving the disc and the other parts around on the three bolts to give different assembly arrangements can change the run out quite a bit, or you may have to resort to more drastic methods (file / lathe etc if it's really bad). I've only had to do that once and a few file strokes fixed it.
It's a pain to do but better than assembling without checking and finding you've got to take it all apart again because the juddering drives you nuts and the handbrake won't stay in adjustment (runout can wear the pads).
I always check the front discs as well but it's rare to get a problem with them if you keep everything clean.
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
- 69S4
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I think the 3 Lugs of the Driveshaft are sandwiched between the Disk and the Rotoflex
For the Front Disks you could fit +2 Calipers and +2 Disks and scrap the Servo.
Alan
For the Front Disks you could fit +2 Calipers and +2 Disks and scrap the Servo.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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At least somewhat on topic...
I've seen a few listings for front brake pads here in the US, but not much on rears. I still have my handbrake pads, which are in good shape; but I need new front and rear pads. I've seen some older threads mentioning EBC, but they are in the UK. I realize they ship, but it might be more economical to find some here in the States. Sources, anyone?
I've seen a few listings for front brake pads here in the US, but not much on rears. I still have my handbrake pads, which are in good shape; but I need new front and rear pads. I've seen some older threads mentioning EBC, but they are in the UK. I realize they ship, but it might be more economical to find some here in the States. Sources, anyone?
Tony
1967 Elan S3 SE
Northeast US
1967 Elan S3 SE
Northeast US
- Tmac897
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 01 Aug 2019
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