Lotus Elan

Rear wheel bearing - "Knocking from suspension over bumps"

PostPost by: UAB807F » Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:51 am

JonB wrote:how much is a new spinner anyway?


too much to break ! The last time I saw them they were around ?50 each, which makes the proper removal tool look good value if you end up breaking more than one. :oops:

If you are going to try again, given how tight your hubs appear to be then get a good solid spacer across the full internal face of the spinner to spread the load to the outer edges of the spinner as John has described. IIRC I used 1/4" mild steel roughly cut to suit.

If you're using a butane/propane torch then you'll struggle to do any damage to the components, so I'd give it a few minutes. That's the normal method for breaking down the loctite on Europa hubs and having done that job too many times I'd give it a couple of minutes heating at least. It's a big lump of iron there.....

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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:07 am

OK, I have acquired a new puller and a blowtorch... watch this space.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:57 am

Crank on the tension with the puller. Heat it up with the torch. Cover it with something heavy. Go away and have a beer while waiting for the bang. Go back and it will be apart.

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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:27 am

Have tried, cannot get it apart. Puller and spinner / spacer, blow torch until very hot, nothing. Even pulled a muscle in my forearm whacking the spinner with the hammer. Yes, that hard. Do not want to leave it alone with the torch on it, that is very dangerous.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:35 am

Be sure that the packing piece under the spinner is pressing on the end of the drive shaft NOT on the nyloc nut.
The nyloc nut is unscewed maybe 2 turns and left in place just to protect the threads of the drive shaft.
Be sure to have a support under the chapman strut so it has solid support.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:00 am

Jon
South coast...where abouts?

John :wink:

EDIT

Just done a trawl of your posts...West Sussex , not really helpful but I'm going down to Clacton in a couple of weeks and have my own " puller".....
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:52 am

Well.. I give up. Before I break something important. I wound the spinner on with spacer as tight as I dared, then heated the hub for at least 10 minutes with a propane torch. Must have used most of the gas. Hub was smoking. Re-torqued the spinner, nothing. It is all getting damaged. Even the puller's legs are bent and twisted, it's knackered.

img_4436.jpg and
State of my axle

img_4437.jpg and
State of my spinner

img_4439.jpg and
What's left of the hub nut

img_4435.jpg and
State of my puller

img_4434.jpg and
Open ended spinner with cutouts for puller legs


I'm not confident that the SJ puller would give any better result. I am particularly alarmed at the end of the axle, it has been deformed by the puller. Thought it was tough! Doesn't look like it. So how would a "proper" puller work without damaging it?
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:20 am

For me over the years i have used only packing + original puller. NEVER a normal puller because it will ALWAYS bend the hub flange and the piston rod on a normal puller always damages drive shaft.
Sorry if it's a bit direct but i've been there and done it like you many years ago on my first +2.
The hub got bent and i had to get it remachined + new drive pegs for the wheel :oops:
I tried to buy the tool from sjsportcars many years ago but they were out of stock. That's why i tried with a packing piece and original spinner + heat and it works.
I support the chapman strut so it is solid, tighten original spinner as tight as possible, heat evenly around the hub.
If it doesn't work walk away and leave it to cool down with original spinner tightened.
Go back later try to tighten more and heat again.
Good luck
Alan
ps. I see on the puller you are using the piston rod has a point which will always spread the centre of the drive shaft. A packing piece is flat and will not damage the shaft.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:34 pm

Jon
What you need is something like this....

2017_1110hubpuller0002.jpg and



threaded end to protect threads ( F and R ), big meaty screw , doesn't mind a lump hammer.( on the shaft or handles)

John :wink:

P.S. the thread should clean up with a thread file.
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:54 pm

alan.barker wrote:For me over the years i have used only packing + original puller. NEVER a normal puller because it will ALWAYS bend the hub flange and the piston rod on a normal puller always damages drive shaft.


The normal puller I used was connected to the open ended spinner lugs first, then I cut slots at the base of the spinner to take the legs as I thought maybe the lugs were flexing. At no point did I attempt to open the puller legs out to attach them to the hub flange! I read this would distort the hub and I can see that happening with all the extra leverage on the flange.

What do you mean by "packing + original puller"? Sounds like packing + spinner to me, which I also tried to no effect.

I cannot see any evidence of Loctite in there, by the way.
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:59 pm

john.p.clegg wrote:What you need is something like this....


Yeah, if only I had something like that! It actually looks like a Lotus special tool. I'm guessing the bottom bit is a sleeve that goes inside the hub and is screwed down by the open ended spinner - spare spinner for the other side of the car? I also surmise the small bit on the bottom screws onto the shaft to protect thread and shaft end. That would be perfect, can I borrow it please?

Apropos the damage to the end of the shaft, it is just a bit of dishing and the nut will still fit.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:05 pm

Jon
Of course you can , I can bring it down to Clacton on the 18th or mail or whatever...it's heavy..

John :wink:

P.S me your details phone/address etc
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:07 pm

They can be tough to get off at times. I use a 10 tonne hydraulic puller with a splitter plate that fits behind the hub. That and heat on the hub and they have always come off. Put it through a few heat cycles. i think your puller is a bit on the weak side. Take the strut off and take it to someone with a good hydraulic press perhaps I always fit a section of tube over the threaded section and push on the shoulders of the stub axle to avoid damage to the thread

Your hub looks to be pushed a long way up the taper so it will be very hard to remove. The shoulder should be 3 or 4 mm below the hub face the washer sits on. The hub may have been excessively distorted and expanded by the taper and you may struggle to get it to re-seat correctly when you refit

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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:11 pm

OK, will PM you

This is the SJ removal tool. It's an adjustable spacer, in effect.

https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... 6D0007.htm

I don't think it will work for me as I already tried to remove the hub using a spacer, but maybe I should try again. The guy I spoke to said it always worked, and I begin to wonder if my spacer (a socket over the loosened nut with another nut inside it to lift it off the hub) really worked properly.

Thanks for the good news, Rohan. :( I suppose it is better to know !
Last edited by JonB on Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:11 pm

Yes Jon, i meant packing + original spinner (typing error :oops: )
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