Front end overhaul
Another day, another update.
Got the new uprights from Sue Miller, they had the same marks on the thread of the kingpin. I pointed this out to her and she said she'd never had any complaints - and I do believe what she says. So, I decided I may as well fit them. First off, painting the uprights and ball joints (trunnions don't need it - brass - and the track rod ends are plated).
That's a coat of zinc primer, then spray on Hammerite. I used a cardboard box and fan heater as a sort of "low bake oven" and it works a treat for small parts like this. Obviously masked off the holes and threads.
While waiting for these to dry I degreased the hubs and bearings and packed them with fresh grease. Cleaned the spinner threads too, as they'd been greased. I had a bit of a battle fitting the trunnions together with their bushes, seals, cups and sleeves but with the help of a vice they are all pressed together and greased. Here they are, filled with (almost invisible) EP90 being tested for leaks.
Whilst I had the spray can of Hammerite "on the go", I sprayed the springs and filled in some bits I'd missed. Both sides look like this now:
I don't suppose this will make much difference to the longevity of the springs, but it looks a bit nicer.
I fitted the smart new track rod ends and had intended to carry on and complete the assembly of both sides, but the Hammerite on the uprights was taking longer than anticipated to dry and as it was 4:00pm by then I left it for tomorrow. But I couldn't help tinkering with something, so I tidied up the footwell carpet on the driver's side and painted the metal angle iron that holds the boot lock in place, because I want to stick the carpet to it and stop it falling off all the time.
Having sorted all that out, I went indoors and made the festive Xmas pork pie... but that is another story!
Got the new uprights from Sue Miller, they had the same marks on the thread of the kingpin. I pointed this out to her and she said she'd never had any complaints - and I do believe what she says. So, I decided I may as well fit them. First off, painting the uprights and ball joints (trunnions don't need it - brass - and the track rod ends are plated).
That's a coat of zinc primer, then spray on Hammerite. I used a cardboard box and fan heater as a sort of "low bake oven" and it works a treat for small parts like this. Obviously masked off the holes and threads.
While waiting for these to dry I degreased the hubs and bearings and packed them with fresh grease. Cleaned the spinner threads too, as they'd been greased. I had a bit of a battle fitting the trunnions together with their bushes, seals, cups and sleeves but with the help of a vice they are all pressed together and greased. Here they are, filled with (almost invisible) EP90 being tested for leaks.
Whilst I had the spray can of Hammerite "on the go", I sprayed the springs and filled in some bits I'd missed. Both sides look like this now:
I don't suppose this will make much difference to the longevity of the springs, but it looks a bit nicer.
I fitted the smart new track rod ends and had intended to carry on and complete the assembly of both sides, but the Hammerite on the uprights was taking longer than anticipated to dry and as it was 4:00pm by then I left it for tomorrow. But I couldn't help tinkering with something, so I tidied up the footwell carpet on the driver's side and painted the metal angle iron that holds the boot lock in place, because I want to stick the carpet to it and stop it falling off all the time.
Having sorted all that out, I went indoors and made the festive Xmas pork pie... but that is another story!
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Just a question JonB, what did you use to lubricate the bushes and sleeve that go through the trunnion?
I?ve slipped behind schedule on my rebuild, but did manage to finish making and fit my exhaust heat shield yesterday and the letters and catch have arrived to allow me to finish and fit the boot lid.
I?ve slipped behind schedule on my rebuild, but did manage to finish making and fit my exhaust heat shield yesterday and the letters and catch have arrived to allow me to finish and fit the boot lid.
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 16 May 2017
JonB wrote:Not suitable for my lovely knock-ons then! And note, it still has a threaded kingpin / trunnion for the bottom joint.
Regarding the TTR item, I saw a picture of a trunnion drilled to take a grease nipple on the bottom cap. Feasible? Owner was going to fit a solid TTR unit.
I had thought of doing this but the metal disc at the bottom of the trunnion is very thin and I didn't feel confident it would have enough threads.
Also it's in a slightly vulnerable position
Graeme
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
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661 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Bigbaldybloke wrote:Just a question JonB, what did you use to lubricate the bushes and sleeve that go through the trunnion?
I?ve slipped behind schedule on my rebuild, but did manage to finish making and fit my exhaust heat shield yesterday and the letters and catch have arrived to allow me to finish and fit the boot lid.
LM Grease.
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Phew, a back breaking day of pure spanner time. Here's a summary...
I took it for a test run and I think it felt wobbly and frail. On returning I checked the front bearing play and it's too much so there is another little job to add to the tracking.
I thought I'd best wash and dry the poor old girl. She's been covered in all sorts of crap as a result of my re-rusting of parts in the garage. This is the first time I've been at it with a chamois, and I think it's been parked under a tree as the paint feels a bit rough. A clay bar will fix that. I also spotted a little leak in the passenger footwell. I think this is caused by rinse water sloshing down the air intake, and it means that I will have to take the heater out (needs doing anyway as all its gaskets are knackered - can't turn the hot air off).
On the plus side, though, the bodgey repairs I'd done to the bulkhead grommets made a big difference to the engine noise in the car, and the radio sounded reasonably good (although needs front speakers). I might have a go at doing the same on the inside of the bulkhead, when I eventually do the dashboard.
All in all, good day's work!
P.S. I didn't really have time to take pictures but will post some next time I'm under the car.
- Stub axles fitted easily into the uprights, torqued up to ..ermm.. 70 lbs/ft (or whatever it said in the manual)
- Had to think carefully about which upright went on which side. The left hand threaded kingpin goes on the left, but the trunnions also have "L" and "R" stamped on the bottom so I could double check and get it right.
- Part way through assembling the offside (having completed the nearside) I discovered the brake dust shield was the wrong one. So that's why there was hardly any clearance for the track rod end.. So, I had to dismantle it and start over. I've fitted them so that the "dish", "indent", or whatever it's called points to the engine on each side. This improves clearance for the track rod ends but reduces clearance for the disk. I had to fettle it a bit to stop it rubbing, clearance is now ~5mm. Is this right or have I put them on the wrong way round?
- The tracking is well out. The track rod ends have longer arms than the ones I took off the car, so the nut I left on the steering arms was not a good guide. I have it more or less straight, but will need to do it right. Steering wheel is completely out and the car feels a bit vague. Toeing out I'll wager.
I took it for a test run and I think it felt wobbly and frail. On returning I checked the front bearing play and it's too much so there is another little job to add to the tracking.
I thought I'd best wash and dry the poor old girl. She's been covered in all sorts of crap as a result of my re-rusting of parts in the garage. This is the first time I've been at it with a chamois, and I think it's been parked under a tree as the paint feels a bit rough. A clay bar will fix that. I also spotted a little leak in the passenger footwell. I think this is caused by rinse water sloshing down the air intake, and it means that I will have to take the heater out (needs doing anyway as all its gaskets are knackered - can't turn the hot air off).
On the plus side, though, the bodgey repairs I'd done to the bulkhead grommets made a big difference to the engine noise in the car, and the radio sounded reasonably good (although needs front speakers). I might have a go at doing the same on the inside of the bulkhead, when I eventually do the dashboard.
All in all, good day's work!
P.S. I didn't really have time to take pictures but will post some next time I'm under the car.
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Oh dear, looks like I assembled it wrong.
http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/CA_-_Fron ... nsion_%2B2
..shows the dish in the dust shield the other way round (pointing at the wheels). Darn it.
http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/CA_-_Fron ... nsion_%2B2
..shows the dish in the dust shield the other way round (pointing at the wheels). Darn it.
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Jon
Unfortunately yes I guess so.
A bit late now to say it but it's often a good idea to take photos before or during disassembly to help the old memory.
Often we expect to be putting it back together straightaway but then get 'distracted' and forget the details.
If taking off both sides I label and store separately as well.
I hope that your track rod ends have enough thread to get the two in right.
Don't forget to centre the rack when setting.
Have a good Xmas - you are taking a break aren't you?!
Mark
Unfortunately yes I guess so.
A bit late now to say it but it's often a good idea to take photos before or during disassembly to help the old memory.
Often we expect to be putting it back together straightaway but then get 'distracted' and forget the details.
If taking off both sides I label and store separately as well.
I hope that your track rod ends have enough thread to get the two in right.
Don't forget to centre the rack when setting.
Have a good Xmas - you are taking a break aren't you?!
Mark
- MarkDa
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Maybe it's a case of more haste less speed.
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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I took a look at my brake dust shields yesterday just to check and they are indeed as per the manual, but while doing that I noticed that the dust seal on top of the trunnion had perished and split on one side so that?s another job to do. Might as well do both sides while I?m at it, only ?0.99 a piece but worth it to protect the trunnion and uprights
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 16 May 2017
Jon, did have any trouble getting the track rods ends loose from the uprights? If so, what was the solution? Mine have remained thoroughly stuck through everything I've thrown at them.
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
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The Veg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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To release track rod ends i always use 2 hammers.
A big one to support on back side and the other to hit from front side.
Always works.
Alan
A big one to support on back side and the other to hit from front side.
Always works.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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Alan, could you elaborate on this? I think I can visualise what you're saying but more clarity on the 'support' part would help.
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
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The Veg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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