Lotus Elan

Front end overhaul

PostPost by: The Veg » Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:44 pm

If you mean the method we discussed a few days ago, yes- with no result.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:10 pm

If track rod and arm are detached then they could be left to soak in some paraffin for a day or two which ought to penetrate the joints with a bit of luck.
Or failing this cut the joint at the back of the taper with a hacksaw so the arm can be placed on something solid (but with a hole) and then the taper can be driven straight through.

I always assemble taper joints with copper grease in the fond hope that they won't bond together as these seem to have.
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PostPost by: The Veg » Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:24 pm

Worth a try. I'm about to be away for four days, so I may just leave it soaked until I return.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:30 pm

4 days should do it!
It's easy to say leave to soak but I'm always too impatient!
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Dec 31, 2017 4:03 pm

To release i always hit at 90? to the axe of the taper with the support on the opposite side i hit.
You for sure have a stuburn one here :mrgreen:
Would a gas welding torch help on the outside.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Dec 31, 2017 4:49 pm

If available the speed of heating and higher temps of oxy/acetylene is great.
Occasionally I remove assemblies from other cars and take to a garage for separation. A few pounds rather than hours of struggle is well worth it.
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:28 pm

MarkDa wrote:If available the speed of eating and higher temps of oxy/acetylene is great.
Occasionally I remove assemblies from other cars and take to a garage for separation. A few pounds rather than hours of struggle is well worth it.


Well said, I have destroyed perfectly good assemblies because I didn't have either the right tool or skill.
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PostPost by: The Veg » Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:44 pm

I do not have access to oxy/acetylene unfortunately. If the four-day soak doesn't help things, then professional help just might be in order. I'm sure it would be less money than new steering arms.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Dec 31, 2017 7:19 pm

I'm confident that cutting the back off and getting impact right in line will do it if it doesn't pop out straightaway.
When using a joint separator I reckon to leave the nut on to help keep the screw in line.
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Sun Dec 31, 2017 7:29 pm

JonB, to be honest after all the punishment that steering arm has taken, the suggestion of replacing it with a new one is not such a bad idea
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:00 am

It's Veggie's arm.. :wink:

Mine came out with a forked ball joint extractor and one moderate whack. Looks like I was lucky! My top joints were the same.

@Veg, I'd suggest trying Mark's suggestion first. It can't hurt. If it doesn't work, seek professional assistance. And get a quote for a new arm, just in case.
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:07 am

And incidentally.. I loosened the Lotus track rod extensions, sort of, but I can't get the nuts loose. The track rod arm keeps turning, even when I use a vise-grip on it. Any advice? I'm thinking of welding a tab to each arm so I can clamp it properly.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:36 am

Jon
Do you have a stilson wrench? They bite tighter the harder you pull.
Providing you can get spare nuts split off with hacksaw or nut splitter.
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Mon Jan 01, 2018 11:35 am

Personally, I?d go for either a nut splitter or a junior hacksaw to split the nut off. That would be after heat and copious penetrating oil of course! I wouldn?t want to damage the tie rod as that?s even more of a clat to replace! You can buy thin lock nuts easily online if you don?t have any although a full size one would probably fit just fine. I buy all my nuts and bolts from Kays online and the service is great.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Jan 01, 2018 12:01 pm

Small world , so do I , great service....

http://www.kaysfasteners.co.uk/

John :wink:
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